Mike Evans
Mike Evans
I gathered with some friends for a tasting Sunday night with a theme of Cote Rotie from 2001 or older. While the weather was wet and dreary, the company and the wines were anything but.
NV Pehu Simonet Champagne Brut Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru - France, Champagne, Verzenay, Champagne
Disgorged in June 2010, with plenty of pleasant pear and a hint of soursop, and a little yeast, it was pleasant and refreshing, and its medium weight and more fruit-driven style served it well on a humid evening.
1997 Jean-Michel Gerin Condrieu La Loye - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Condrieu
Moderately oxidized, but a little sweetness on the back helps balance it out, and a little bit more fruit comes out as it warms up and gets some air. It should have been consumed several years ago, but isn't unpleasant.
1999 Robert Níero Condrieu Cuvee du Chery - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Condrieu
Slightly oxidized, but it still has enough fruit and acidity to be interesting. As it warmed up and aired out, the acid faded, leaving the fruit muddled. Again, I held it longer than I should have, but it wasn't a bad showing given its age.
2000 Tardieu-Laurent Côte-Rôtie - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Some noticeable oak on the nose, with a modest amount of brett, and indistinct dark fruit, and unobtrusive acidity that did little to help or hinder the wine, it left little impression on me, either good or bad.
1999 Jean-Michel Gerin Côte-Rôtie Champin le Seigneur - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Opened right before it was served, it starts out very tight and bashful, with hints of leather and red fruit, and quite a bit of acid and not much else. It opened up enough with air for me to suspect that it should either be decanted well in advance of service, or just allowed to slumber a little longer.
2001 Tardieu-Laurent Côte-Rôtie - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Served blind, the slightly muddy red/purple color, meaty dark fruit, a not unpleasant herbal/vegetal quality, and a less pleasant lactic quality led me to guess that it might be an Hermitage, though the fairly intense acidity made me question my guess. My guess was wrong, but the wine was uninspiring enough that I couldn't bring myself to care.
1999 Domaine Jamet Côte-Rôtie - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
The aromas defy description, bypassing the rational part of the brain to connect with something deep and primal. Transfixed, like a cat staring through the window at a cavorting chipmunk, it took a moment to remember that this is a beverage, then I took a sip. The blackberry/raspberry fruit, leather, and a touch of minerals and pepper are there, but are tightly wound around a core of tannin and acidity. It is another wine that probably should have been decanted well in advance, but it was so special on the nose that it is hard to regret it too much.
1999 Michel & Stéphane Ogier Côte-Rôtie - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
More restrained and elegant than the 1999 Jamet, with plenty of lovely and focused red fruit and hints of leather, and a strong acidic core. It opened up nicely with air, and though it drank well, it should continue to improve.
1998 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie Ch“teau d'Ampuis - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
A bottle of this two weeks ago was the first drinkable Chateau d'Ampuis i ever had. Unfortunately, this one showed the style I've come to know and loathe. Dark purple in color, it drinks like a blackberry/blueberry milkshake with overripe fruit overlaid with overpowering vanillin oak, and a fair bit of heat on the nose. The friend who brought it told me that the one we had two weeks ago was more representative of his experience with Chateau d'Ampuis, but this one, alas, is typical of mine.
1998 Domaine Jamet Côte-Rôtie - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Double decanted a couple of hours before the tasting, the first impression was a healthy blast of brett, but it faded quickly to be replaced by just ripe raspberry and strawberry fruit, a little menthol, and hints of bacon and pepper, though I didn't find any of the violets I associate with Jamet's wines. The aromas, while nice, couldn't match the 1999, but it more than made up for it on the palate, combining grace with power bolstered by refreshing acidity. It is drinking well now, but should continue to evolve for several more years.
1998 Michel & Stéphane Ogier Côte-Rôtie - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Double decanted a couple of hours before the tasting, it also started with a big hit of sweet bretty odors, which disappeared quickly. More focused and intense than the 1998 Jamet, the pure, penetrating blackberry and blueberry fruit is joined by beguiling hints of violet and white pepper, seamlessly integrated with lively acidity, it is drinking beautifully, but still on an upward trajectory.
1998 Saint-Cosme Côte-Rôtie - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Showing well, and definitely ready to go, though it was a little overwhelmed by the other wines in the flight, and lighter in color as well as it is bright ruby to the core. Quite aromatic, as leather and red cherry and raspberry aromas leapt from the glass and carried over nicely on the palate, with decent acidity keeping it lively. A good, but not great, Cote Rotie, that I don't expect will improve, but should hold well for at least a few more years.
1988 Domaine Jamet Côte-Rôtie - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Corked. NR (flawed)
1991 Domaine Jamet Côte-Rôtie - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
The 1991 Jamet was the first Cote Rotie I ever had, and it seduced me into a love affair with the wines from Ampuis that is still going strong after almost 20 years. I only have a few bottles left, leading me to grin maniacally when I saw that a friend brought this to the tasting. Tasting it only made the grin more manic. Hugely expressive, with garrigues, raspberry and cherry, bacon, and a touch of white pepper engaged in an elaborate dance, one stepping forward, then twisting aside to allow another to take the lead. Fresh, but tightly integrated acidity keeps the wine focused, and suggests that it has plenty of dancing left in it.
1998 Michel & Stéphane Ogier Syrah Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes La Rosine - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes
The translucent red color reflects its age, and the pure red fruit matches the purity of the color. Not terribly complex, but lovely in its simplicity, with enough acid to delineate the fruit. Time to drink these up if you still have them, but it should have at least a few very pleasant years left in it.
2003 Ch“teau La Tour Blanche Sauternes - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Bright, lively and fresh, not too sweet, and with a refreshing amount of acidity, it was a nice way to end the evening.
NV Pehu Simonet Champagne Brut Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru - France, Champagne, Verzenay, Champagne
Disgorged in June 2010, with plenty of pleasant pear and a hint of soursop, and a little yeast, it was pleasant and refreshing, and its medium weight and more fruit-driven style served it well on a humid evening.
1997 Jean-Michel Gerin Condrieu La Loye - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Condrieu
Moderately oxidized, but a little sweetness on the back helps balance it out, and a little bit more fruit comes out as it warms up and gets some air. It should have been consumed several years ago, but isn't unpleasant.
1999 Robert Níero Condrieu Cuvee du Chery - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Condrieu
Slightly oxidized, but it still has enough fruit and acidity to be interesting. As it warmed up and aired out, the acid faded, leaving the fruit muddled. Again, I held it longer than I should have, but it wasn't a bad showing given its age.
2000 Tardieu-Laurent Côte-Rôtie - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Some noticeable oak on the nose, with a modest amount of brett, and indistinct dark fruit, and unobtrusive acidity that did little to help or hinder the wine, it left little impression on me, either good or bad.
1999 Jean-Michel Gerin Côte-Rôtie Champin le Seigneur - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Opened right before it was served, it starts out very tight and bashful, with hints of leather and red fruit, and quite a bit of acid and not much else. It opened up enough with air for me to suspect that it should either be decanted well in advance of service, or just allowed to slumber a little longer.
2001 Tardieu-Laurent Côte-Rôtie - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Served blind, the slightly muddy red/purple color, meaty dark fruit, a not unpleasant herbal/vegetal quality, and a less pleasant lactic quality led me to guess that it might be an Hermitage, though the fairly intense acidity made me question my guess. My guess was wrong, but the wine was uninspiring enough that I couldn't bring myself to care.
1999 Domaine Jamet Côte-Rôtie - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
The aromas defy description, bypassing the rational part of the brain to connect with something deep and primal. Transfixed, like a cat staring through the window at a cavorting chipmunk, it took a moment to remember that this is a beverage, then I took a sip. The blackberry/raspberry fruit, leather, and a touch of minerals and pepper are there, but are tightly wound around a core of tannin and acidity. It is another wine that probably should have been decanted well in advance, but it was so special on the nose that it is hard to regret it too much.
1999 Michel & Stéphane Ogier Côte-Rôtie - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
More restrained and elegant than the 1999 Jamet, with plenty of lovely and focused red fruit and hints of leather, and a strong acidic core. It opened up nicely with air, and though it drank well, it should continue to improve.
1998 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie Ch“teau d'Ampuis - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
A bottle of this two weeks ago was the first drinkable Chateau d'Ampuis i ever had. Unfortunately, this one showed the style I've come to know and loathe. Dark purple in color, it drinks like a blackberry/blueberry milkshake with overripe fruit overlaid with overpowering vanillin oak, and a fair bit of heat on the nose. The friend who brought it told me that the one we had two weeks ago was more representative of his experience with Chateau d'Ampuis, but this one, alas, is typical of mine.
1998 Domaine Jamet Côte-Rôtie - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Double decanted a couple of hours before the tasting, the first impression was a healthy blast of brett, but it faded quickly to be replaced by just ripe raspberry and strawberry fruit, a little menthol, and hints of bacon and pepper, though I didn't find any of the violets I associate with Jamet's wines. The aromas, while nice, couldn't match the 1999, but it more than made up for it on the palate, combining grace with power bolstered by refreshing acidity. It is drinking well now, but should continue to evolve for several more years.
1998 Michel & Stéphane Ogier Côte-Rôtie - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Double decanted a couple of hours before the tasting, it also started with a big hit of sweet bretty odors, which disappeared quickly. More focused and intense than the 1998 Jamet, the pure, penetrating blackberry and blueberry fruit is joined by beguiling hints of violet and white pepper, seamlessly integrated with lively acidity, it is drinking beautifully, but still on an upward trajectory.
1998 Saint-Cosme Côte-Rôtie - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Showing well, and definitely ready to go, though it was a little overwhelmed by the other wines in the flight, and lighter in color as well as it is bright ruby to the core. Quite aromatic, as leather and red cherry and raspberry aromas leapt from the glass and carried over nicely on the palate, with decent acidity keeping it lively. A good, but not great, Cote Rotie, that I don't expect will improve, but should hold well for at least a few more years.
1988 Domaine Jamet Côte-Rôtie - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Corked. NR (flawed)
1991 Domaine Jamet Côte-Rôtie - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
The 1991 Jamet was the first Cote Rotie I ever had, and it seduced me into a love affair with the wines from Ampuis that is still going strong after almost 20 years. I only have a few bottles left, leading me to grin maniacally when I saw that a friend brought this to the tasting. Tasting it only made the grin more manic. Hugely expressive, with garrigues, raspberry and cherry, bacon, and a touch of white pepper engaged in an elaborate dance, one stepping forward, then twisting aside to allow another to take the lead. Fresh, but tightly integrated acidity keeps the wine focused, and suggests that it has plenty of dancing left in it.
1998 Michel & Stéphane Ogier Syrah Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes La Rosine - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes
The translucent red color reflects its age, and the pure red fruit matches the purity of the color. Not terribly complex, but lovely in its simplicity, with enough acid to delineate the fruit. Time to drink these up if you still have them, but it should have at least a few very pleasant years left in it.
2003 Ch“teau La Tour Blanche Sauternes - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Bright, lively and fresh, not too sweet, and with a refreshing amount of acidity, it was a nice way to end the evening.
