Jay's wine storage is bursting at the seams prompting him to go on the dreaded wine buying hiatus. To help remedy the situation, a week ago Sunday he invited numerous wine folks over in a vain attempt to work through a number of bottles. Alas, few people heeded Jay's advice to leave bottles at home as we all have our own cellars to cull. I didn't get to every bottle, but here's a good chunk of them.
2011 Foreau Domaine du Clos Naudin- Vouvray Demi-Sec - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray
I was really looking forward to try this as I've been told that Philippe Foreau is excited about his '11 demi-sec and it just hit the market. It seems richer on the nose and palate than the '08, though perhaps less intense, exotic and focused as that wine and it shows less residual sugar and flamboyance than the '09. It's intensely mineral and chalky with floral tones, quince, light citrus and herbaceous notes. There's a pleasant racy quality to the wine upfront, with a light bitterness on the finish, but the alcohol, which is listed as 13% on the label, sticks out too much and there's a certain flatness in the middle. Perhaps the wine needs to sit and sort itself out a bit, but I expected more. B+.
2001 Müller-Catoir- Haardter Mandelring Scheurebe Spätlese - Germany, Pfalz
Consistently one of my favorite wines from Müller-Catoir and this is another beautiful showing. It's bursting with passion fruit, grapefruit and tropical fruit on the nose and palate. Incredibly aromatic and with great intensity in the mouth, it shows plenty of honeyed sweetness, though is balanced wonderfully by the acidity. That said, this bottle shows just a touch softer than other bottles I've had. Never fails to thrill me. This, along with the '88 Climens, was my WOTN. A.
1998 Huët- Vouvray Pétillant Brut - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray Pétillant
Quite earthy with more of deep earthiness I always get out of the '95, rather than say a chalkiness. Surprisingly mature with a soft mousse and easy going acidity. Apples, toasted nuts, a hint of apricot and pleasant bitterness on the finish. I'd start to drink up. A-/B+.
2009 Rhys- Chardonnay Horseshoe Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
Quite rich and fragrant on the nose with butterscotch/oak aromas and ripe yellow fruit. The richness is there on the palate, but there's also a good amount of acidity and a pleasant and welcomed mineral character to go along with the pear, apple and ripe citrus fruit. There's more oak than I'd like to see, but in the overall scheme of thing, it's relatively restrained. One of the more complex domestic Chardonnays I've had in awhile. Low A-.
2012 Domaine Tempier- Bandol Rosé - France, Provence, Bandol
Fresh, aromatic with good depth and balance, it's strawberries, watermelon, dried roses and citrus in pink form. Shows better than the '11 with nice spice notes, a bit of mineral and good zip. Low A-.
2003 Clos Rougeard (Foucault)- Saumur-Champigny Les Poyeux - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny
Shows a bit of oak on the nose, but it doesn't cover up the pleasant mineral and ripe red fruit aromas. Quite plush and thickly textured, showing the character of the vintage, but the fruit, while ripe, is not overripe and there's a beautiful silky texture to the wine. Pretty remarkable that the earthiness and herb haven't been roasted out given the heat of the vintage. Despite lowish acid levels, the wine still shows finesse and balance. Low A-.
2001 Clos Rougeard (Foucault)- Saumur-Champigny "Clos" - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny
Lacks the fruit of the '03 and so the oak sticks out more than I'd like. Extremely earthy with a distinct potting soil character. Shows some green with the cherry fruit a bit more reserved. There's nice silkiness upfront, but I find the acid bites on the rather stern finish. B+/B.
2008 Clos Rougeard (Foucault)- Saumur-Champigny - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny
Reveals an odd nose of rubber to begin with that eventually blows off to reveal not much at all. Rather closed on the palate, but there's plenty of juicy acidity and swirling conjures up some tobacco, herbs and crunchy red fruit. Let these sleep. B+.
2010 Domaine Ganevat- Côtes du Jura Marguerite - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura
From magnum. Though the label says Chardonnay, it's actually Melon Queue Rouge, which some consider a variant of Chardonnay, from ungrafted vines planted around 1900. It's a rather odd bird that really reminds me of the Marc Angeli La Lune in it's creamsicle character on the nose and palate. Quite appley, with saline notes, pluot and citrus fruit, its intense and persistent, but while there are parts I like about the wine, as a whole it's not captivating me and is just really oddball. B.
1990 Domaine Amiot-Servelle- Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Derrière La Grange - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Heat damaged. NR.
1993 Domaine Amiot-Servelle- Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Derrière La Grange - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
A beautifully perfumed, silky wine that revels in smoky, truffly and earthy notes with crunchy cherry fruit. Elegant with good depth, it shows lovely purity and focus. Lip smacking pleasantly tart finish. Very pretty. Low A-.
1972 Domaine Jaboulet-Vercherre- Corton-Clos du Roi - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Smells dead. Tastes dead. NR.
1989 Olga Raffault- Chinon Les Picasses - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon
A fairly typical showing. No real Brett or meatiness here, just clean and crisp black and red fruit, green tobacco and soil. Focused with elevated acid levels and pleasant leanness. A-/B+.
2005 Charles Joguet- Chinon Clos de la Dioterie - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon
This was one of my favorite '05s on release, but this bottle was pretty ticked off at being opened. The nose shows smokey oak and ripe red and black fruit, but on the palate the wine was scattered, unfocused and grumpy. There's gunpowder showing, the oak is a bit disjointed, but there's plenty of fruit here to absorb it. Rather thickly textured. A B now, but there's a lot of potential for this wine.
1997 Luciano Sandrone- Barolo Le Vigne - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Modern in style with entirely too much oak showing on the nose and palate. There's nice, ripe red fruit underneath, but oak just dominates it, adds a bitter note and is already drying the wine out. There's just not enough wine to absorb the wood. Drink up. C+/B-.
2011 Rivers-Marie- Chardonnay B. Thieriot Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
So not the right wine for this group, which prefers their whites unoaked with vibrant acidity and focused fruit. This wine is the antithesis of that. Blowsy, with loads of glycerine, ripe tropical fruit and dominated by sweet oak. Low acid, to boot. Different strokes for different folks. C+.
2011 Willi Schaefer- Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese #10 - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
From magnum and, as should be expected, showing quite youthfully. A bit of spritz and vivid acidity to go along with the intense mineral character and passion fruit, peach, apple and red fruit flavors and aromas. Medium sweet and showing nice finesse, but there's a small dip in focus in the mid-palate. Still, a lovely wine. A-.
1988 Ch“teau Climens - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac
Always one of my favorites Sauternes due to the comparatively high acid levels the wine shows, this is another beautiful showing. The color still shows more of youthful deep yellow/gold. Rich butterscotch, pineapple and orange blossom aromas on the nose. There's a wonderful creaminess to the wine and it's beautifully balanced with the oak nicely integrated. Sweet with similar flavors as aromas with a bit of toffee on the long finish. Wonderful wine. A.
2011 Foreau Domaine du Clos Naudin- Vouvray Demi-Sec - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray
I was really looking forward to try this as I've been told that Philippe Foreau is excited about his '11 demi-sec and it just hit the market. It seems richer on the nose and palate than the '08, though perhaps less intense, exotic and focused as that wine and it shows less residual sugar and flamboyance than the '09. It's intensely mineral and chalky with floral tones, quince, light citrus and herbaceous notes. There's a pleasant racy quality to the wine upfront, with a light bitterness on the finish, but the alcohol, which is listed as 13% on the label, sticks out too much and there's a certain flatness in the middle. Perhaps the wine needs to sit and sort itself out a bit, but I expected more. B+.
2001 Müller-Catoir- Haardter Mandelring Scheurebe Spätlese - Germany, Pfalz
Consistently one of my favorite wines from Müller-Catoir and this is another beautiful showing. It's bursting with passion fruit, grapefruit and tropical fruit on the nose and palate. Incredibly aromatic and with great intensity in the mouth, it shows plenty of honeyed sweetness, though is balanced wonderfully by the acidity. That said, this bottle shows just a touch softer than other bottles I've had. Never fails to thrill me. This, along with the '88 Climens, was my WOTN. A.
1998 Huët- Vouvray Pétillant Brut - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray Pétillant
Quite earthy with more of deep earthiness I always get out of the '95, rather than say a chalkiness. Surprisingly mature with a soft mousse and easy going acidity. Apples, toasted nuts, a hint of apricot and pleasant bitterness on the finish. I'd start to drink up. A-/B+.
2009 Rhys- Chardonnay Horseshoe Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
Quite rich and fragrant on the nose with butterscotch/oak aromas and ripe yellow fruit. The richness is there on the palate, but there's also a good amount of acidity and a pleasant and welcomed mineral character to go along with the pear, apple and ripe citrus fruit. There's more oak than I'd like to see, but in the overall scheme of thing, it's relatively restrained. One of the more complex domestic Chardonnays I've had in awhile. Low A-.
2012 Domaine Tempier- Bandol Rosé - France, Provence, Bandol
Fresh, aromatic with good depth and balance, it's strawberries, watermelon, dried roses and citrus in pink form. Shows better than the '11 with nice spice notes, a bit of mineral and good zip. Low A-.
2003 Clos Rougeard (Foucault)- Saumur-Champigny Les Poyeux - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny
Shows a bit of oak on the nose, but it doesn't cover up the pleasant mineral and ripe red fruit aromas. Quite plush and thickly textured, showing the character of the vintage, but the fruit, while ripe, is not overripe and there's a beautiful silky texture to the wine. Pretty remarkable that the earthiness and herb haven't been roasted out given the heat of the vintage. Despite lowish acid levels, the wine still shows finesse and balance. Low A-.
2001 Clos Rougeard (Foucault)- Saumur-Champigny "Clos" - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny
Lacks the fruit of the '03 and so the oak sticks out more than I'd like. Extremely earthy with a distinct potting soil character. Shows some green with the cherry fruit a bit more reserved. There's nice silkiness upfront, but I find the acid bites on the rather stern finish. B+/B.
2008 Clos Rougeard (Foucault)- Saumur-Champigny - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny
Reveals an odd nose of rubber to begin with that eventually blows off to reveal not much at all. Rather closed on the palate, but there's plenty of juicy acidity and swirling conjures up some tobacco, herbs and crunchy red fruit. Let these sleep. B+.
2010 Domaine Ganevat- Côtes du Jura Marguerite - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura
From magnum. Though the label says Chardonnay, it's actually Melon Queue Rouge, which some consider a variant of Chardonnay, from ungrafted vines planted around 1900. It's a rather odd bird that really reminds me of the Marc Angeli La Lune in it's creamsicle character on the nose and palate. Quite appley, with saline notes, pluot and citrus fruit, its intense and persistent, but while there are parts I like about the wine, as a whole it's not captivating me and is just really oddball. B.
1990 Domaine Amiot-Servelle- Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Derrière La Grange - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Heat damaged. NR.
1993 Domaine Amiot-Servelle- Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Derrière La Grange - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
A beautifully perfumed, silky wine that revels in smoky, truffly and earthy notes with crunchy cherry fruit. Elegant with good depth, it shows lovely purity and focus. Lip smacking pleasantly tart finish. Very pretty. Low A-.
1972 Domaine Jaboulet-Vercherre- Corton-Clos du Roi - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Smells dead. Tastes dead. NR.
1989 Olga Raffault- Chinon Les Picasses - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon
A fairly typical showing. No real Brett or meatiness here, just clean and crisp black and red fruit, green tobacco and soil. Focused with elevated acid levels and pleasant leanness. A-/B+.
2005 Charles Joguet- Chinon Clos de la Dioterie - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon
This was one of my favorite '05s on release, but this bottle was pretty ticked off at being opened. The nose shows smokey oak and ripe red and black fruit, but on the palate the wine was scattered, unfocused and grumpy. There's gunpowder showing, the oak is a bit disjointed, but there's plenty of fruit here to absorb it. Rather thickly textured. A B now, but there's a lot of potential for this wine.
1997 Luciano Sandrone- Barolo Le Vigne - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Modern in style with entirely too much oak showing on the nose and palate. There's nice, ripe red fruit underneath, but oak just dominates it, adds a bitter note and is already drying the wine out. There's just not enough wine to absorb the wood. Drink up. C+/B-.
2011 Rivers-Marie- Chardonnay B. Thieriot Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
So not the right wine for this group, which prefers their whites unoaked with vibrant acidity and focused fruit. This wine is the antithesis of that. Blowsy, with loads of glycerine, ripe tropical fruit and dominated by sweet oak. Low acid, to boot. Different strokes for different folks. C+.
2011 Willi Schaefer- Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese #10 - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
From magnum and, as should be expected, showing quite youthfully. A bit of spritz and vivid acidity to go along with the intense mineral character and passion fruit, peach, apple and red fruit flavors and aromas. Medium sweet and showing nice finesse, but there's a small dip in focus in the mid-palate. Still, a lovely wine. A-.
1988 Ch“teau Climens - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac
Always one of my favorites Sauternes due to the comparatively high acid levels the wine shows, this is another beautiful showing. The color still shows more of youthful deep yellow/gold. Rich butterscotch, pineapple and orange blossom aromas on the nose. There's a wonderful creaminess to the wine and it's beautifully balanced with the oak nicely integrated. Sweet with similar flavors as aromas with a bit of toffee on the long finish. Wonderful wine. A.
