Oswaldo Costa
Oswaldo Costa
Two low latitude, high altitude wines, from a project that seems to loom more dear than large on übergeek radars.
2010 I Vigneri (Salvo Foti) Vinujancu 12.0%
From very young (planted in 2005) vines. Blend of Carricante, Riesling planted on French rootstock, Grecanico, and Minnella. Categorically stunning aromas, penetrating minerality, citrus, florals, sodium bicarbonate and chalk. Whenever a nose goes for the jugular like this I brace for a disappointing sequel, but here Well, perhaps you, conditioned reader, think I am setting you up for a fall just to snatch a satisfying mouth from the jaws of an unsatisfying mouth, but no. While it was unique, it was not up to the nasal augur. Satisfying body and texture, pronounced orange peel bitterness, light almond oxidativeness, yeasty finish. Tastes better than this makes it sound, but it was the ski lift nose that one might trade the Kingdom of Naples and Sicily for.
2010 I Vigneri (Salvo Foti) Vinudilice 12.0%
In contrast, this is from extremely old vines, some nearing their 200th season. Mix of red and white grapes, Alicante, Grecanico, and Minnella, augmented by a smattering of nattering native varieties. The nose here was comparatively subdued. Appealing raspberry, slate and a hint of cloves. But the mouth, oh what a mouth! Delightfully fresh fruit, reasonably well balanced by acidity, more and more crystalline as the meal wore on, concentrating into a compressed band of palatitudinal luminosity that invites gushing of the most vulgar kind. One of the few that doesn't require you to be in Provence to sit back and remark, with evident self-satisfaction, how good life can be.
2010 I Vigneri (Salvo Foti) Vinujancu 12.0%
From very young (planted in 2005) vines. Blend of Carricante, Riesling planted on French rootstock, Grecanico, and Minnella. Categorically stunning aromas, penetrating minerality, citrus, florals, sodium bicarbonate and chalk. Whenever a nose goes for the jugular like this I brace for a disappointing sequel, but here Well, perhaps you, conditioned reader, think I am setting you up for a fall just to snatch a satisfying mouth from the jaws of an unsatisfying mouth, but no. While it was unique, it was not up to the nasal augur. Satisfying body and texture, pronounced orange peel bitterness, light almond oxidativeness, yeasty finish. Tastes better than this makes it sound, but it was the ski lift nose that one might trade the Kingdom of Naples and Sicily for.
2010 I Vigneri (Salvo Foti) Vinudilice 12.0%
In contrast, this is from extremely old vines, some nearing their 200th season. Mix of red and white grapes, Alicante, Grecanico, and Minnella, augmented by a smattering of nattering native varieties. The nose here was comparatively subdued. Appealing raspberry, slate and a hint of cloves. But the mouth, oh what a mouth! Delightfully fresh fruit, reasonably well balanced by acidity, more and more crystalline as the meal wore on, concentrating into a compressed band of palatitudinal luminosity that invites gushing of the most vulgar kind. One of the few that doesn't require you to be in Provence to sit back and remark, with evident self-satisfaction, how good life can be.