Does Bierzo hold any interest around here?

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VS

Victor de la Serna
Except for the likes of Laureano Serres or Alfredo Maestro, I know that the geek appeal of Spanish wines is rather thin. But Bierzo, a forlorn place in northwest Spain, could have it - if you get ahold of the right producers. The rest is not really spoof - more like clumsy peasant attempts at spoof resulting in funky tannic monsters. But a bunch of people are working those old hillside vines diligently. So if you see them around, they're usually not very expensive (except for Alvaro Palacios' single-vineyard stuff, which are minute productions).

Reds are made with mencía, which we now know is a natural cross of the Jura's trousseau (in the Iberian península for, apparently, centuries) and an as yet unidentified northwestern Spain or northern Portugal grape. Whites, mostly with godello.

Some very old plots on slate or limestone. Vertical, too.

The 'good' names: Palacios and his nephew Ricardo Pérez Palacios´(Descendientes de J. Palacios), Raúl Pérez (his own wines and those at Castro Ventosa and Estefanía), Gregory Pérez (Mengoba), Alejandro Luna (Luna Beberide and Paixar), Luzdivina Amigo, Verónica Ortega, Josep Mas (Massuria).
 
The more lesser priced mencia I try, the more I like them.
Some of the high end stuff gets a bit too much barrel for me.
And occasionally, godello has appeal - sometimes a little resinous.
Best, Jim
 
You'll find no reason for oak-induced complaints about the abovementioned any longer, Jim. From $6 to $300 wines. A lot has been learned in Spain over the past few years, fortunately.
 
Those Raúl Pérez wines are stylish, but they reach these shores at some pretty high prices for forlorn wines.
 
I thought mencias were on the cool radar already. I had a 2006 Paixar that was pretty big and extracted, came across as a modern Brunello or a montepulciano (the grape, not the appelation). Drinkable, but not without oak barrels attached.
 
For Mencia and Godello, me gustan the wines of Gregory Perez (Bodegas Mengoba), imported by Jose Pastor. They are well priced and delicious.

Brad
 
I have a few bottles Luzdivina lying around - from Garagiste, who (among others at the time) was pitching the grape as Spain's cabernet franc. (exact quote: "Mencia is the key varietal - Cabernet Franc to you and I, although the definitive correlation between Mencia and Cabernet Franc is still up for conjecture but locals, when pressed, will tell you it’s the same varietal [sic]."). I learned later on there was no genetic link and learned very early on that there was no taste similarity either. I've become a much bigger fan of the grape after getting that cab franc notion out of my head but have tried more Ribeira Sacras than Bierzos. Thanks for the producer tips, will keep an eye out for these.
 
The young, unoaked El Castro de Valtuille by Raúl Pérez retails for 5.90 euros in Spain, so I doubt it's severely priced in the US (if it does make it there, which I don't know.)
 
originally posted by VS:
The young, unoaked El Castro de Valtuille by Raúl Pérez retails for 5.90 euros in Spain, so I doubt it's severely priced in the US (if it does make it there, which I don't know.)
Click to expand...

Last time I bought this several years ago (okay, maybe 5 or so) I think it was around $12USD.
 
Yes!

2008 Descendientes de Jose Palacios Moncerbal is sublime. I couldn’t get my nose out of the glass long enough to drink it.

More within the budget is Bodega Alberto Ledo, Ledo.8. I’ve had numerous bottles and it never fails to please, with or without food.

As long as we’re on the subject of somewhat obscure and heady Spanish wine, keep your eyes on Arribes, a region just south of Bierzo and bordering Portugal (Douro). Almaroja Pirita is a stunning drink similar to these Bierzo wines in that the fruit is restrained just enough. The wine is made with a base of bush-grown Juan Garcia grapes, which possess charming floral aromatics comparable to Mencia. If I had a yacht I would fill it with Pirita.
 
been. done. over-hyped.

some very nice wines, notwithstanding.

fb.
 
originally posted by VS:
Does Bierzo hold any interest around here?Except for the likes of Laureano Serres or Alfredo Maestro, I know that the geek appeal of Spanish wines is rather thin.
Click to expand...

No geek love for Fernando Garcia?
 
originally posted by VS:
Reds are made with mencía, which we now know is a natural cross of the Jura's trousseau (in the Iberian península for, apparently, centuries) and an as yet unidentified northwestern Spain or northern Portugal grape.
Click to expand...

What is the source on the Trousseau connection? Based on my reading of Jancis' 2012 "Wine Grapes", no relationship is suggested between Trousseau and Mencía. However, it does state that Mencía is identical to the Portuguese Jaen du Dao. This could be a source of potential confusion given the longtime existence of Trousseau (Bastardo) in Dao.
 
originally posted by VS:
Does Bierzo hold any interest around here?Except for the likes of Laureano Serres or Alfredo Maestro, I know that the geek appeal of Spanish wines is rather thin. But Bierzo, a forlorn place in northwest Spain, could have it - if you get ahold of the right producers. The rest is not really spoof - more like clumsy peasant attempts at spoof resulting in funky tannic monsters. But a bunch of people are working those old hillside vines diligently. So if you see them around, they're usually not very expensive (except for Alvaro Palacios' single-vineyard stuff, which are minute productions).

Reds are made with mencía, which we now know is a natural cross of the Jura's trousseau (in the Iberian península for, apparently, centuries) and an as yet unidentified northwestern Spain or northern Portugal grape. Whites, mostly with godello.

Some very old plots on slate or limestone. Vertical, too.

The 'good' names: Palacios and his nephew Ricardo Pérez Palacios´(Descendientes de J. Palacios), Raúl Pérez (his own wines and those at Castro Ventosa and Estefanía), Gregory Pérez (Mengoba), Alejandro Luna (Luna Beberide and Paixar), Luzdivina Amigo, Verónica Ortega, Josep Mas (Massuria).
Click to expand...

Thanks for this list it is most useful. The one I know best is Ribeira Sacras Dominio do Bibei. Is it of comparable quality?
 
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