TN: Jeebus at Dale's (July 28, 2013)

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
Dale and Betsy and Lucy opened their home for a summer backyard party. Attendees included some wine folk who drove up from town and lots of neighbors. There was no particular cause for the party other than Dale wanted to open some bottles that he'd rather not drag to a jeebus: some magnums and two pre-atomic era clarets.

Meanwhile, he and Besty cooked up a storm:
Green Salad with Lobster
Green Salad with Pheasant (shot by Dale's brother)
Sliced Lamb
Gazpacho
Local-made Cheddar
German-style Potato Salad
Thai-style Corn on the Cob (fish sauce and sugar)
and some munchy/nibble things.


Jay Miller contributed:
Yellow Cake with Strawberry Frosting

Lots of convivial conversation, as people moved between the dining room and the patio. Lucy gave us a few barks so we acknowledged her presence... and then we got back to the wines:

Trimbach 1997 Riesling "Cuvee Frederic Emile" - magnum; totally fresh, yellow-fruited, mature, still crisp, absolutely perfect

Egon Muller 2011 Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett - 02 12, mouth-watering acidity is sharper than the Trimbach's, less ripe (more green grapes than yellow plums), also very yummy

Foillard 2007 Morgon "Cuvee 3.14" - fresh, earthy, red berries, tingly, wow

Thevenet (Dom de la Bongrand) 1996 Macon-Clesse "Quintaine" Cuvee Tradition - magnum; some controversy here: I think it's robust, rich and silky, almost waxy as chenin, but Dale says it is too ripe and the honey scent is atypical

Bornard 2007 Cotes du Jura "Les Gaudrettes" - tweaky chard but seems skimpy in this company

Vatan 2006 Sancerre "Clos de Neore" - Chavignol, really; I get the taste of Robitussin but others say it's just bone dry; in any case, interesting but not more

Chidaine 2002 Montlouis sur Loire "Les Tuffeaux" - another one for controversy: some of us think this is rich and redolent of orange blossoms, a bit low acid but tasty, while others say it's slightly oxidized and tired

Van Schubert Maximin Grunhauser 2008 Abstberg Riesling Spatlese - pleasant, outclassed by the Muller (which it resembles)

Gravner 2003 Bianco Breg Anfora - rather dark gold color, you can definitely taste the clay pot, quite ripe, mixed reception

R. Jobard 2002 Meursault 1er "Les Charmes" - taste of straw and floral powdery candy, rather nicer than that makes it sound

Poujeaux 1929 Moulis-en-Medoc - excellent condition: looks more like a wine from the 1950s than the 1920s, mahogany reddish-brown color, lightweight, smooth, earthy, a whiff of faded cranberry, from the Graham Lyon cellar auction

Cazin (Le Petit Chambord) 2002 Cour-Cheverny "Cuvee Renaissance" - grapefruity and moelleux, yum

Ch de Pez 1943 St-Estephe - reconditioned at the chateau in 1976; the bottle is slightly blue (god only knows where they got the glass for it), typical old Bordeaux nose of tobacco and worn leather, less interesting on the palate due to a tinny note (one person calls brett)

Drouhin 1997 Beaune Blanc 1er "Clos des Mouches" - dead of the pox

Breton 1997 Bourgueil "Les Perrieres" - and another gorgeous bottle, not too ripe, glyceral feel but what a great nose!

A few pix:
sm_1929_Poujeaux.jpg
sm_1943_Ch_de_Pez.jpg
And the master of ceremonies himself:
sm_Dale_triptych.jpg
 

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I thought it was drink and hold.

The Poujeaux btw was gorgeous. The de Pez had a lovely nose but unfortunately the palate didn't follow through. I liked the von Schubert more than Jeff. Very, very pretty wine.

The Trimbach surprised me. I thought of 1997 as an early drinking vintage but this was the best showing I've experienced. Great stuff. And thankfully no trace of p'ox.
 
Cellaring magnums from Alsace is a labor of love, the bottles look cool but what a pain to store.

Jeff, was the Vatan a white wine? I don't even know if Vatan makes a Sancerre rouge, but your note (robitussin) almost sounds like it is a red wine.
 
originally posted by Jay Miller:
I thought it was drink and hold.

The Poujeaux btw was gorgeous. The de Pez had a lovely nose but unfortunately the palate didn't follow through. I liked the von Schubert more than Jeff. Very, very pretty wine.

The Trimbach surprised me. I thought of 1997 as an early drinking vintage but this was the best showing I've experienced. Great stuff. And thankfully no trace of p'ox.

Of the 1995, 1996, 1997 that I bought and cellared, I've had the most consistently excellent bottles of 1997.

originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Thevenet (Dom de la Bongrand) 1996 Macon-Clesse "Quintaine" Cuvee Tradition - magnum; some controversy here: I think it's robust, rich and silky, almost waxy as chenin, but Dale says it is too ripe and the honey scent is atypical

This wine always has a bit of botrytis in it and to usually be honey scented. Personally, I like the style and I think it wears its honeycomb well, but not everyone is a fan.
 
originally posted by Marc D:
Cellaring magnums from Alsace is a labor of love, the bottles look cool but what a pain to store.

Jeff, was the Vatan a white wine? I don't even know if Vatan makes a Sancerre rouge, but your note (robitussin) almost sounds like it is a red wine.

Marc -

Vatan does bottle small amounts of Sancerre rouge. I've only had it once, and it was a freak show. been on the lookout for it for a while now.
 
originally posted by Marc D:
Jeff, was the Vatan a white wine? I don't even know if Vatan makes a Sancerre rouge, but your note (robitussin) almost sounds like it is a red wine.
White. I was surprised, too, but that's what it smelled like (retro-nasally, I mean).
 
I have had the 06 vatan three times, twice within past year, and i found it absolutely stellar - and i have a low tolerance for cough syrup.
 
originally posted by Matt Latuchie:
originally posted by Marc D:
Cellaring magnums from Alsace is a labor of love, the bottles look cool but what a pain to store.

Jeff, was the Vatan a white wine? I don't even know if Vatan makes a Sancerre rouge, but your note (robitussin) almost sounds like it is a red wine.

Marc -

Vatan does bottle small amounts of Sancerre rouge. I've only had it once, and it was a freak show. been on the lookout for it for a while now.
Let me know when you're back in town, I still have some '03, which rocks.
 
originally posted by Lou Kessler:
VatanAre you saying the bottle of Vatan was flawed or you just didn't like the style? Curious minds would like to know.
You have neglected a third option: my tasting apparatus out of whack. Most other folks liked it.

...delay...

I just went through my online notes. I've had Vatan four times and have never liked it. So, there is yet a fourth option: idiosyncrasy of the author.
 
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