Barry Lipton was in town last week and though many of the locals had already fled the city for more exotic locales and summer fun, Chris Kravitz and Josh Leader joined me in welcoming him and in popping a few corks. Though the wines didn't fully cooperate, a fun night was had by all. Nice to catch up with Barry as I haven't made it out to California in way too long.
1989 Domaine Robert Chevillon- Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Saint Georges - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Heat damaged. NR (flawed)
1995 Chateau Montrose - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
I've found most of the '95s I've had recently still rather hard and in need of more time, but I'd seen reports that this was drinking surprisingly well, so I figured it was time to check up on it. It shows a classic Bordeaux nose of black cherry, currants, cedar, light smoke notes, herbs and earth. On the palate it's surprisingly lush and fruit forward at the get go. There's a thickness in texture and a rich, sweet and friendly quality to the red fruit that's delicious, but there's also a powerful back end to the wine that sports some firm tannins that grew in prominence as the evening wore on and picked up more of an herb character. Still on the upswing, imo. Doesn't quite have the depth of the '89 or '90, but this is a terrific wine. Solid A-.
1999 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello- Barolo Monprivato - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Corked. NR (flawed)
1996 Cantina Vignaioli (Elvio Pertinace)- Barbaresco Vigneto Castellizzano - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Shows a lot of meat and blood on the nose with red cherry, spice and dried flowers. Lots of acidity present and the wine's rather austere. Not a ton of fruit here, though the pasta dish with speck and porcinis really did sweeten the fruit up nicely. Dried cherries with rust, earth, leather and spice. I'd drink up as it feels like it's starting to dry out. B+.
1998 Roagna- Barolo La Rocca e La Pira - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Plenty of black earth aromas with rich, black and red fruit, licorice and spice. Surprisingly rich and sweet black fruit that's pretty forward at this stage, though the wine still exhibits primary characteristics. The fruit continued to blossom with air and, as on the nose, also showed licorice, earth and spice. Quite a sexy wine with much more development ahead. Solid A-.
1978 Adrien Belland- Corton-Clos de la Vigne au Saint - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Josh brought this as backup bottle. Recently purchased from a store on the West Coast that brought it in, it looks like it had been recorked not too long ago and, given the high fill, was probably topped off. Shows an interesting and not unpleasant nose of cow manure, (in a good, earthy/grassy and natural sense) blood, tobacco and earth. Not at all generous on the palate. In fact, the acidity is sharp and unpleasant. Iron shavings, leather, smoked meat and blood upfront and short and citrusy on the back. Interesting, but not particularly pleasant at all. C/C-.
Two pics from the night.
The group.
The wines.
1989 Domaine Robert Chevillon- Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Saint Georges - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Heat damaged. NR (flawed)
1995 Chateau Montrose - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
I've found most of the '95s I've had recently still rather hard and in need of more time, but I'd seen reports that this was drinking surprisingly well, so I figured it was time to check up on it. It shows a classic Bordeaux nose of black cherry, currants, cedar, light smoke notes, herbs and earth. On the palate it's surprisingly lush and fruit forward at the get go. There's a thickness in texture and a rich, sweet and friendly quality to the red fruit that's delicious, but there's also a powerful back end to the wine that sports some firm tannins that grew in prominence as the evening wore on and picked up more of an herb character. Still on the upswing, imo. Doesn't quite have the depth of the '89 or '90, but this is a terrific wine. Solid A-.
1999 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello- Barolo Monprivato - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Corked. NR (flawed)
1996 Cantina Vignaioli (Elvio Pertinace)- Barbaresco Vigneto Castellizzano - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Shows a lot of meat and blood on the nose with red cherry, spice and dried flowers. Lots of acidity present and the wine's rather austere. Not a ton of fruit here, though the pasta dish with speck and porcinis really did sweeten the fruit up nicely. Dried cherries with rust, earth, leather and spice. I'd drink up as it feels like it's starting to dry out. B+.
1998 Roagna- Barolo La Rocca e La Pira - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Plenty of black earth aromas with rich, black and red fruit, licorice and spice. Surprisingly rich and sweet black fruit that's pretty forward at this stage, though the wine still exhibits primary characteristics. The fruit continued to blossom with air and, as on the nose, also showed licorice, earth and spice. Quite a sexy wine with much more development ahead. Solid A-.
1978 Adrien Belland- Corton-Clos de la Vigne au Saint - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Josh brought this as backup bottle. Recently purchased from a store on the West Coast that brought it in, it looks like it had been recorked not too long ago and, given the high fill, was probably topped off. Shows an interesting and not unpleasant nose of cow manure, (in a good, earthy/grassy and natural sense) blood, tobacco and earth. Not at all generous on the palate. In fact, the acidity is sharp and unpleasant. Iron shavings, leather, smoked meat and blood upfront and short and citrusy on the back. Interesting, but not particularly pleasant at all. C/C-.
Two pics from the night.
The group.