'02 Le Mont Sec

Keith Levenberg

Keith Levenberg
Drank last night with soft shell crabs and langoustines.

This really alarmed me at first. Color was a deep gold, like a Sauternes of a similar age, and it tasted and smelled like Mott's apple juice. Not the profile of a premoxed white Burgundy, more like a wine just naturally over the hill. Something prevented me from giving up on it though and it improved a lot with air - and it didn't just turn into something "okay," it actually turned out really good. The fruit brightened up and it evolved from the muddled apple juice stuff into textbook Vouvray quince with a tactile chalkiness. If it weren't for the color I probably wouldn't have suspected there was anything unsound about it although I might have still guessed it to be much older than it is.

I'm not usually inclined to open Huet at this age but wanted to see what was going on in light of some premox reports. There are at least 3 notes on Cellartracker finding oxidation in this and one other noting a mess of another kind. I wouldn't put this bottle in the oxidized category but I'm not sure it's right. But, again, this isn't an age at which I ordinarily open Huet. Could this be just a phase? or a bad omen?

Is the same thing going on with Le Haut Lieu and Clos du Bourg?
 
I have .375ml of LHL. Not sure when I'll open it though. But your note reminds me of similar behavior with N & S Rhone whites. I recall a 1987 Beaucastel Rousanne (no VV bottled back then) that behaved similarly.
 
We opened an '02 lhl a couple of years ago that was delicious, but too young to compare with Keith's bottle. I should dig a le Mont soon to see how it is.

Keith, did you buy your 02 Huet in NY?
 
Yes, from Chambers way back when.

I don't usually think of chenin going through the bizarre aging phases that Rhone whites do where one day they taste oxidized and then they don't, but I guess it's possible. However, this didn't taste oxidized, just advanced.
 
2007 LM sec was fabulous last night. Perfectly balanced acid and subtle sweetness, starting to show some earthy development but still fresh and zippy.

Two riesling lovers nodded their heads to its tune throughout the evening.
 
As I posted on facebook, had an '02 LHL Demi-Sec yesterday that was premoxed and did not freshen up over a period of about seven hours.
 
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originally posted by SFJoe:
Don't tell me you had a p'oxed '96!

did I say that ?

I had a 96 with a blue/green bottom fourth of the cork.
 
originally posted by .sasha:
so do I need to mail this cork to Professor Lipton's lab?

If the color is persistent, you could do worse, Sasha. Let me know if you need a mailing address.

Mark Lipton
 
originally posted by MLipton:
originally posted by .sasha:
so do I need to mail this cork to Professor Lipton's lab?

If the color is persistent, you could do worse, Sasha. Let me know if you need a mailing address.

Mark Lipton

Mostly faded overnight, Prof.

Superb bottle of wine, I like it even more than on Friday. Kind of intimidating for a Sec.
 
used to keep liquid nitrogen around, for emergency Stoly chilling, but kicked the habit after learning how the bottles had been assembled in the first place
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
we'll have to keep some liquid nitrogen on hand to preserve the next blue cork for analysis.

Are you sure that formalin wouldn't be more apropos?

Mark Lipton
 
originally posted by MLipton:
originally posted by SFJoe:
we'll have to keep some liquid nitrogen on hand to preserve the next blue cork for analysis.

Are you sure that formalin wouldn't be more apropos?

Mark Lipton
I wish I had the least idea.
 
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