Some fun wines with a Disorderly

Saina Nieminen

Saina Nieminen
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Disorderly JeffG was in Helsinki yesterday, so the obvious thing to do was to take him into the dungeon that is my wine cellar and make him eat entrecote and drink wine.

Bodegas Franco-Españolas Viña Soledad Tête de Cuvée Gran Reserva 1981
White wine but otherwise served blind. My initial reaction was that it must be oldish LdH, I guessed 1976. An ex-oaky smell, oxidative; rich, almost oily palate but bright acidity. A very LdH-like wine. Lovely.

Fruitiere Vinicole d'Arbois Béthanie 1998
Served blind: A blend of Chardonnay and Savagnin. A really lovely Sherry (Manzanilla) smell; oxidative, rich, racy and quite similar to the Rioja though more obviously Sherry-like aromas. Lovely.

Antonio Vallana e Figlio Spanna Cantina del Camino 1958
My bottle, so it was blind only to the others. I had stood this up for a couple weeks to make sure the sediment would settle. This was a superb example of old Nebbiolo IMO. It seemed amazingly young in comparison to some others from roughly this period I have had. Sweet, floral, slightly shitty (in the good way) perfume; mature but still vigorous. Knowing what it was I wouldn't have thought of this but others felt it was like a '70s Musar albeit not quite so volatile (it's hard to say if they were reading me more than the bottle since that actually was a pretty accurate description of the wine, but they were still all expecting me to open Musar for some strange reason).

Prieler Goldberg Blaufränkisch 2006
Blind from magnum. I have tried a few of these Burgenland Prielers before but never this "top" range wine. I thought this was quite reductive (seems typical for Prieler - I don't normally mind reductiveness too much, but sometimes his wines need two days open and that's a bit excessive). But vigorous swirling did open it up somewhat, but it is still a VERY primary wine, purple in colour, but with attractive cherry aromas. A polished style but still reminiscent of Sangiovese so I thought this was a Chianti. Nice wine, but really needed air and/or age.

Edmunds St. John Bassetti Vineyard Syrah 2005
Jeff kindly brought this over from the US. I love ESJ, but haven't tasted any vintages post 1998 since that was the last vintage imported here. I thought this was a fantastic, unmanipulated Syrah in a relatively cool climate -style for California. There's a bit of blueberry on the nose, but otherwise it is a very pretty Syrah-fruit (and knowing what ESJ goes for, I guess the blueberry isn't anything to do with oak but perhaps with slight reduction?). Savoury, nicely structured, refreshing and moreish. Fantastic stuff and I'd love to have a case of this ageing in my cellar.

Clape Cornas 2001
Blind. This was a bit of a disappointment. I was geographically challenged when asked where this came from. Eventually I ended up in the southern parts of France and was thinking of Chateauneuf du Pape. This was sweetly fruity/super-ripe, with a slight dried fruit character on the nose; quite soft in both acidity and tannins and therefore seemed more like Grenache than Syrah to me. I was thinking it was a perfectly nice wine until I heard it was Clape; because I really expected Clape to be much more typical to N. Rhone despite being a slightly polished style of Cornas.

Ch. Rauzan-Gassies 2004
A non-blind Margaux. This was not a very good wine yesterday: it smelled of bacon and oak and bananas. I took the remains with me and finished the bottle tonight and it seems much better. R-G's reputation seems to be that it is a fairly traditional Bordeaux and tonight that seems right. It has a nice savoury scent of baked bean and a nice savoury palate with adequate structure and it actually became quite moreish overnight. Yesterday: meh. Tonight: yeah, ok! But not 60 ok! But I guess it only costs 60 in Finland. Normally it will only be 25-35 elsewhere if this is the price here.

Selbach-Oster Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese 2007
A nice Mosel Auslese; rich and a bit lower in acidity than I ideally prefer (hot year!).

Crushpad Töövi Marsanne Saralee's Vineyeard 2010
A Californian example of this grape. Aromatic and expressive for this often reticent grape. Rich, fat, but with good levels of acidity. Nice!
 
Glad to hear they survived their transatlantic journey!

I had been thinking of pulling one of those Bassettis, guess I'll shelve that idea back with the wine.
 
originally posted by Otto Nieminen:

Edmunds St. John Bassetti Vineyard Syrah 2005
Fantastic stuff and I'd love to have a case of this ageing in my cellar.

Nice work.

I don't quite have a case but in my meager collection I do have more bottles of that wine than of any other. And I have every reason to believe that its best days are ahead of it.
 
originally posted by Otto Nieminen:

Antonio Vallana e Figlio Spanna Cantina del Camino 1958
... amazingly young in comparison to some others from roughly this period I have had.

I have heard that accusation from other sources.
 
But, Keith, unless you've had a bottle purchased at release (ca. '61) how could you know that it's the genuine article?

Mark Lipton
 
originally posted by MLipton:
But, Keith, unless you've had a bottle purchased at release (ca. '61) how could you know that it's the genuine article?

Mark Lipton
Consistent showings of bottles from multiple sources, including some purchased when Vallana was way too cheap to fake, combined with the wine's unique original packaging which would be very complicated to fake, make me quite certain the Vallanas I've consumed have all been genuine. Certainly it would have been vastly more profitable, as well as easier, for anyone wishing to profit deviously from the wines in those bottles to have labeled them as Monfortino instead. And if anyone knows of a cheaper wine that could be substituted for a Vallana from this era and show as amazingly as most of mine have, I am dying to know what it is.
 
originally posted by Keith Levenberg:
originally posted by MLipton:
But, Keith, unless you've had a bottle purchased at release (ca. '61) how could you know that it's the genuine article?

Mark Lipton
Consistent showings of bottles from multiple sources, including some purchased when Vallana was way too cheap to fake, combined with the wine's unique original packaging which would be very complicated to fake, make me quite certain the Vallanas I've consumed have all been genuine. Certainly it would have been vastly more profitable, as well as easier, for anyone wishing to profit deviously from the wines in those bottles to have labeled them as Monfortino instead. And if anyone knows of a cheaper wine that could be substituted for a Vallana from this era and show as amazingly as most of mine have, I am dying to know what it is.

I don't have remotely enough experience to have a personal view, but the grumbling I heard was not about a Rudy sort of situation, more one like Moulin Touchais or some Rioja houses being a bit flexible about their labeling.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Otto Nieminen:

Edmunds St. John Bassetti Vineyard Syrah 2005
Fantastic stuff and I'd love to have a case of this ageing in my cellar.

Nice work.

I don't quite have a case but in my meager collection I do have more bottles of that wine than of any other. And I have every reason to believe that its best days are ahead of it.

My last couple of bottles have showed great. Only a couple left.

I tend to like my wines with some fruit left in them, however.
 
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Otto Nieminen:

Edmunds St. John Bassetti Vineyard Syrah 2005
Fantastic stuff and I'd love to have a case of this ageing in my cellar.

Nice work.

I don't quite have a case but in my meager collection I do have more bottles of that wine than of any other. And I have every reason to believe that its best days are ahead of it.

My last couple of bottles have showed great. Only a couple left.

I tend to like my wines with some fruit left in them, however.

I also like wines when they still taste like the cepage, but I don't think this is in danger of slipping into anonymity anytime soon!

Recent bottles of the 2001 CA Syrah were still plenty fruit-driven for my tastes.

But, maybe I'll check. Or start with 2005 WF.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:

I also like wines when they still taste like the cepage, but I don't think this is in danger of slipping into anonymity anytime soon!

Recent bottles of the 2001 CA Syrah were still plenty fruit-driven for my tastes.

But, maybe I'll check. Or start with 2005 WF.

On release that was my favorite of the '05s. I may have finished all of mine as a result :(
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
Did not love a recent 2005 ESJ Parmelee-Hill, but that must be quite a different kettle of fish.

What didn't you like about it?

I have small stashes of all of Steve's '05 reds (Redneck 101, too). Before I try a bottle of Bassetti, I'll be opening the others.
 
I don't have remotely enough experience to have a personal view, but the grumbling I heard was not about a Rudy sort of situation, more one like Moulin Touchais or some Rioja houses being a bit flexible about their labeling.
I suppose it's possible that the vintage labels aren't 100% accurate but based on what we know about when the wines were released and when the producer stopped making good wine, it's unlikely that anything in the bottle could have deviated by more than a few years. Otherwise where are all the great '70s and '80s Vallanas that taste like the '58s and '61s?
 
originally posted by Keith Levenberg:
I don't have remotely enough experience to have a personal view, but the grumbling I heard was not about a Rudy sort of situation, more one like Moulin Touchais or some Rioja houses being a bit flexible about their labeling.
I suppose it's possible that the vintage labels aren't 100% accurate but based on what we know about when the wines were released and when the producer stopped making good wine, it's unlikely that anything in the bottle could have deviated by more than a few years. Otherwise where are all the great '70s and '80s Vallanas that taste like the '58s and '61s?
I couldn't speculate.
 
originally posted by Larry Stein:
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
Did not love a recent 2005 ESJ Parmelee-Hill, but that must be quite a different kettle of fish.

What didn't you like about it?

I have small stashes of all of Steve's '05 reds (Redneck 101, too). Before I try a bottle of Bassetti, I'll be opening the others.

The acidity was fair enough, but the sweetness semeed a bit too prominent, and kind of separate, with some heat from the 14.4% alcohol burning the throat. No apparent oak, but it seemed a bit too new world, as much from the unellenbogian (an example of hapax legomenon) alcohol level as from the sweetness (connected, of course). I think this was Steve's last Parmelee.
 
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