TN: Marc Hanes visits (Oct. 12, 2013)

J

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
attendees: Ira, Ray, Roy, Jay, Joe, Jeff, Marc, Craig, Sharon, Allie

It is the Marc from days of yore!: Bon vivant, writer, and ex-cellar master at CWS. After a long stint in North Carolina, a recent change of jobs has shifted his life northward a bit so he is back in the general orbit of the NYC winos. We welcomed him back to the old stamping grounds with a table heaped with breads, cheeses, affettati, and...

Ch. Giscours 1971 Margaux - dead

Castell d'Encus 2011 Costers del Segre "Taleia" - transparently light, smells like the wine at a late lunch overlooking the Mediterranean, pleasant

Emidio Pepe 2003 Trebbiano d'Abruzzo - bottle 12750, slightly cloudy, potent, Pezzy, nicely ripe, not a subtle drink though

Bell Hill 2009 Chardonnay - oak and butter, feh, DNPIM

Montevertine 1997 IGT "Il Sodaccio" - cherry, minerally, this bottle has gone a little soft

Dom. Marc Roy 2011 Gevrey-Chambertin "Clos Prieur" - young, aggressively tannic, woody?, my opinion is not the majority

Dom. du Pegau 2003 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Cuvee Reservee" - so much extract, silty, chicken broth, roasty; in its defense, this bottle had been Coravin'ed a week ago

Barthod 2008 Chambolle-Musigny 1er "Les Veroilles" - tight when first opened but an hour later this is gorgeous, "Crystalline" -Jay, kirsch-y without the whack of spirits, wow

Dom. l'Arlot 2011 Nuits-St-Georges 1er "Les Petits Plets" - a young vines cuvee someone says, a whiff of diacetyl, pretty, peppery, will be nice in a few years

Ch. de Chorey 2005 Chorey-les-Beaunes - so easy to drink! black cherry, slightly sweet, yum

Dom. l'Arlot 2006 Nuits-St-Georges 1er "Clos des Forets" - beautiful! perfect balance of brambly twigs and red berries, very moreish

Metras 2011 Fleurie "l'Ultime" - fresh, vivid, fruity

Grivot 2007 Nuits-St-Georges 1er "Aux Boudots" - at first somewhat roasty but that recedes, still plenty sturdy, better than we expect

Dom. l'Aigueliere 1999 Montpeyroux "Cote Rousse" - recognizably syrah from the south of France, this is grown in chalk/clay and raised in Allier barrels, this was structured and sturdy and kinda unfriendly

Dom. l'Aigueliere 1999 Montpeyroux "Cote Doree" - from a slate-like terroir and raised in Nevers barrels, this was warmer, red-fruitier, pleasant

Dom. de la Tournelle 2010 Chardonnay "Terre de Gryphees" - bright acidity, yellow fruits, underripe, exciting

Cappellano 1991 Barbaresco - tinny, I started waiting for it to come around but never got back to it

Les Ormes de Pez 1982 St-Estephe - ready to go, tobacco, red-fruited, Craig thinks this is as nice as one might hope, I think it's a little stodgy

Benoit Lahaye 2007 Champagne - wow, medium brightness, medium leesy, deft mixture of chalk and earth

Cantina Ar Pe Pe 2001 Valtellina Superiore Sassella Riserva "Vigna Regina" - earthy, astringent, cherry, lightweight
 
Thanks to all, a great time, hope we repeat it again soon! Special thanks to Tom T. for letting us stay late, much appreciated my friend!
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:

Dom. Marc Roy 2011 Gevrey-Chambertin "Clos Prieur" - young, aggressively tannic, woody?, my opinion is not the majority
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Most people (myself included) had it as one of their favorites. You also omit the gorgeous La Bota Manzanilla #40 for some reason.
 
I dig Taleia. It is a clean and subtly expressive wine. Drank a bunch of the 2010 this year and was fortunate enough to hang out with the winemaker Raul Bobet for a weekend this summer. He’s a cool cat -- a scientist with soul. A portion of the juice is fermented in 12th Century stone vats that monks dug into the side of a hill. He likes showing people pictures of his stone vats on his ipad. I suppose I would too if I owned any stone vats.

We recently did a blind tasting with about 18 Sauvignon Blanc based wines from just about everywhere and Taleia was the clear favorite among a dozen wine type folks. Although at least half of the competition was dull, industrial nonsense, Taleia definitely stood out as a crowd pleaser. Bobet also makes dry Riesling and Syrah that are just as good.
 
Dom. du Pegau 2003 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Cuvee Reservee" - so much extract, silty, chicken broth, roasty; in its defense, this bottle had been Coravin'ed a week ago
Click to expand...

This was brought as a joke, right? I mean, no one could bring it expecting it to be met with anything like appreciation, could they? I consider myself one of the more Grenache-friendly posters to this bored, and I wouldn't dream of bringing an '03 CdP (I certainly didn't dream of buying any...) to a jeeb.

Nice event! Pretty Burgundy-heavy lineup, but that's not a complaint.

Mark Lipton
 
The 03 Pegau was a wine that for a long time got good reviews even from those who didn't like 03 CdPs generally. More recently, I've seen more than one bad review even from people who originally liked it. It has lost whatever structure it had in aging, or at least in this stage of its life and does come off as flabby. That has also happened to Charvin, to an extent. That's somewhat odd because other 03s have not aged badly, they have just aged into what one might have expected. If you didn't like them then, you won't like them now, by any means, and none of them will make 20 year wines. But it is odd to see these two, which were not the poster children for 03 overthetopness, to be the first to go.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:

Barthod 2008 Chambolle-Musigny 1er "Les Veroilles" - tight when first opened but an hour later this is gorgeous, "Crystalline" -Jay, kirsch-y without the whack of spirits, wow
Click to expand...

I tasted all of her 11s from barrel, and this was perhaps the most disorderly.
 
originally posted by MLipton:
Dom. du Pegau 2003 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Cuvee Reservee" - so much extract, silty, chicken broth, roasty; in its defense, this bottle had been Coravin'ed a week ago
Click to expand...

This was brought as a joke, right? I mean, no one could bring it expecting it to be met with anything like appreciation, could they? I consider myself one of the more Grenache-friendly posters to this bored, and I wouldn't dream of bringing an '03 CdP (I certainly didn't dream of buying any...) to a jeeb.
Click to expand...
They liked it so much it was gone before I got there.
 
originally posted by MLipton:
Dom. du Pegau 2003 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Cuvee Reservee" - so much extract, silty, chicken broth, roasty; in its defense, this bottle had been Coravin'ed a week ago
Click to expand...

This was brought as a joke, right?
Click to expand...
Ira thinks it's funny to tease the bears.

Pretty Burgundy-heavy lineup, but that's not a complaint.
Click to expand...
Lots of people chase the dream of pinot noir's upside.
 
originally posted by MLipton:
Dom. du Pegau 2003 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Cuvee Reservee" - so much extract, silty, chicken broth, roasty; in its defense, this bottle had been Coravin'ed a week ago
Click to expand...

This was brought as a joke, right?
Click to expand...

As Joe notes, it won the thunderbird award, shockingly.

I got a last sip: flames went up the back of my nose. Gack.
 
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
The 03 Pegau was a wine that for a long time got good reviews even from those who didn't like 03 CdPs generally. More recently, I've seen more than one bad review even from people who originally liked it. It has lost whatever structure it had in aging, or at least in this stage of its life and does come off as flabby. That has also happened to Charvin, to an extent. That's somewhat odd because other 03s have not aged badly, they have just aged into what one might have expected. If you didn't like them then, you won't like them now, by any means, and none of them will make 20 year wines. But it is odd to see these two, which were not the poster children for 03 overthetopness, to be the first to go.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that background, Dr. Other Prof. I had somehow missed the praise for the '03 Pegau, a house that in less torrid years I love, but I guess that says more about my reading habits these days than anything else.

Mark Lipton
 
As Jeff mentions the Pegau had been coravined previously so there was only about 1/3 of a bottle left when it was brought out here.

My other favorites were the Roy, the Trebbiano, the '06 l'Arlot, the Lahaye and the Barthod (which underwent several transformations over the course of the day). I was surprised by how much I enjoyed the Grivot - not as extracted as my earlier experiences with the producer. Ray informed me that there was a stylistic change recently.

The lactic note on the '11 l'Arlot made it unpleasant for me. Lots of other good wine.
 
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