TN: A Little Touch of Chicken in the Night (Oct 20, 2013)

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
attendees: Jay, Josh, Chris, Lisa, Jeff

Soul Flavors, of course. Chef Wayne stops by the table to chat a bit.

Nigl 2005 Riesling "Privat" - This is the Qualitatswein Trocken "L" F 2303/06. Ah, the romance of Aryan vinous nomenclature! I hear that this was quite closed when first popped but, by the time I arrive, it is beautiful: tremendous zing, just-so ripeness, decorated with earthy notes, and a long slightly-bitter finish. Wow wine.

S. Magnien 2011 Clos-Saint-Denis GC - An early lactic note distresses Jay but it blows off in the glass. Pretty but simple, I think this is tightly-wound and not really showing what it's got. Jay says he's heard that the 2010s came out better than the 2011s at this property.

Andrea Occhipinti 2011 IGT "Alea Viva" - Lazio Rosso, 100% aleatico, vinified dry. Huge, wacky, Jura-like nose. Lightweight texture but peculiar flavors: Josh and Chris both find it candied and sweet, while I don't get that at all but think it's a mouthful of oregano.

Dom. de Belliviere 2005 Coteaux du Loir "Rouge-Gorge" - "Cement floor" (Josh) and the classic pink peppercorns in the nose. Another wine very different on the palate: heavy, lots of extract, astringent, maybe some pale cherry flavors. The weird grapes are weird tonight. Hold.

O. Raffault 2002 Chinon "Les Picasses" - Completely independent of each other three people brought Picasses. Group think much? Who cares, if the wine is going to be as good as this one: perfect balance of black cherry, green pepper, and tobacco flavors, with a rich texture and still some youthful sweetness. Drink or hold.

O. Raffault 1978 Chinon "Les Picasses" - The nose is a repeat of the '02 just played a little more fortissimo. The palate is drying up very slightly: uncompromisingly dry, just a tad mean/skimpy but that's a geek's complaint.

O. Raffault 1983 Chinon "Les Picasses" - More like the '02 than the '78: a bit less precise, a bit more berry flavor and less earth.

Ch. Doisy-Vedrines 2001 Sauternes - OMG. It was the vintage of a lifetime. A tremendous mouthful of apricots, sweetened pineapple, and honeycomb. No obtrusive oak. Maybe it could use a teeny bit more zing but I'm not worried about that at all as I cheerfully contemplate my incipient diabetic coma.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
S. Magnien 2011 Clos-Saint-Denis GC - I think this is tightly-wound and not really showing what it's got. Jay says he's heard that the 2010s came out better than the 2011s at this property.

Re 2010 vs 2011, wasn't that the case for most winemakers in Burgundy?

I had a few of the 2010s last year and they all seemed tightly wound as well, not the most forthcoming producer style. Although promising.
 
Appreciate the notes, especially the 05 Belliviere. I bought some of the reds and whites from there in that year and they definitely reflect the vintage. Not sure where they are going at this point, and wish the vignerons still came to Seattle so I could ask what they thought. We were spoiled by those yearly visits.

The last 2010 S Magnien I tried about a month ago was the regular Morey St Denis and it had tightened up considerably compared to earlier tastes. Still a very pure and lovely wine.

Is Andrea related to Arianna?
 
Seconded on the thanks for Belliviere 2005 note. I've got a few and keep passing over them. Looks like another year or two might not be a bad move.
 
This was my second 2011 S. Magnien. I didn't try the 2010s but so far I'm not understanding the hype.

But turning the subject to well deserved hype - have people been trying the Lahaye Champagnes that Chambers has gotten in? Both the '07 Brut and the '09 Violaine are very impressive indeed.
 
originally posted by Jay Miller:
This was my second 2011 S. Magnien. I didn't try the 2010s but so far I'm not understanding the hype.

great 10s, at least the three that I tried.
not tried 11s yet
 
The '10 Stephane Magniens were really good. I haven't gotten into any 2011s yet from anyone but it does seem the buzz on this vintage is considerably more negative than it was a few months ago.
 
originally posted by .sasha:
originally posted by Jay Miller:
This was my second 2011 S. Magnien. I didn't try the 2010s but so far I'm not understanding the hype.

great 10s, at least the three that I tried.
not tried 11s yet

i really liked the 10's and bought a mixed case or so. i bought the 11''s too but they are way young for me to form an opinion. the pricing on these wines is very fair too.

also, the passetoutgrain is pretty delicious.
 
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