TN: Peach Farm (Oct 21, 2013)

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
attendees: Mike Malinoski, Dan McQ, Trung Nguyen, Bill Vanderweil, Seth Hill, Tom Hawley, Charles Weiss, Steve Edmunds, Matteo Mollo, Georg Lauer, Jeff Grossman

Steve Edmunds is in town so a jeebus is called. I happen to be in town, too, so I join the merry Massachusites for a glass or two.

Peach Farm is an excellent restaurant in Boston's Chinatown. The local winos meet here often enough that their table is ready when we arrive, the wait-staff quickly brings dump buckets (and pah jun!), and the head waiter knows that Trung does all the ordering. The plates arrive by ones and twos, so we have time to pass them around and nibble each dish with the wines. Standout dishes for me were the lobster with ginger, the manila clams in black bean sauce, the crispy duck (which was banging but not peking), and whatever that last dish was with the house-made tofu.

Bacchus was in a quirky mood. We had 3 or 4 broken corks so much rescuing with Ah Sos and Durands. We also had a couple of outright failures, noted below. But, the God of Grapes also gave us some very good cups.

Vatan 2005 Sancerre "Clos la Neore" - round and rich, only slightly chalky, I think the fruit is overwhelming the structure still, hold

Vollenweider 2006 Riesling Spatlese - 2 576 801 09 07, ooh, gently tingly, luxurious mouthfeel, on the sweet side with a long finish, moreish

Maison Vevey Albert 2006 Blanc de Morgex et de la Salle - immediate smell of ears of fresh corn!, tactile, "Mountain wildflowers" -Steve, a somewhat quiet and contemplative wine, I like it but it's really noisy at this table

Nigl 1999 Senftenberger Hochacker Riesling - cork bad, wine dead

Lamoresca NV IGT Bianco - 2012 Sicilian wine, from vermentino grown in limestone, lemon-orange essence dissolved in spring water, interesting

Zind-Humbrecht 1998 Pinot Gris "Clos St Urbain - Rangen de Thann" VT - gewurz-ish nose, viscous, maybe a hint of rot somewhere way in the back?, very long, "Smells like Z-H" -Matteo, turns kinda JuicyFruit eventually

La Grande Colline NV VdF "Le Canon en Petillant" Rose - cloudy, peach-colored, pet nat but hardly any flavor; later, Matteo gave it the Mollydooker shake but not sure what he accomplished (other than driving some fizz out of solution)

Haart 2001 Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Spatlese - 09 02, a kindly 8.5% alc, gentle wine, another all-by-myself-in-the-corner drink

Peter Lauer NV? Riesling Sekt Brut - 0511, brightly acid, OK I guess

The Eyrie Vineyards 2008 Melon de Bourgogne - served blind: pronounced legs in the glass but a very mild fragrance and muted palate

Weiser-Kunstler 2012 Riesling - 2 601 562 04 13, yup

Mellot 2011 Sancerre "La Chatellenie" - light, faint (maybe the food is shouting down these whites? or did I just hit the good ones first?)

Clos Rougeard 2004 Saumur-Champigny - wow wine, fresh and youthful, mineral dust sprinkled over a berry basket

Knauss 2012 Trollinger - 13 13, trollinger = schiava, typical light color, pleasingly lightweight texture although dark-hued flavors (imagine an ehtereal sort of Robitussin)

Ridge 1996 Petite Sirah, York Creek - today's object lesson that tannins are a preservative, brutal, unevolved, presumably very similar to itself 15+ years ago which prompts Steve to ask, "Is there any reason to give this grape a second look?"

Yves Leccia 2011 IGP "Ile de Beaute" - I think IGP is the new VdP, anyway, a blend of grenache and a sangiovese clone, nice wine, red fruited, earthy

La Grande Colline NV VdF "Le Canon" Rouge - high-toned (that's all the note says))

Belliviere 2002 Coteaux du Loir "Le Rouge-Gorge" - holy moly! what a great nose, "Like a barolo" -Matteo, drinks equally nicely

Cavalotto 1997 Barolo - cork bad, wine corked

Clos de Mont-Olivet 2000 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "La Cuvee du Papet" - despite the fancy cuvee, this is another "yup" wine

Usseglio 1999 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Cuvee de Mon Aieul" - here's something much more suave, rather like a Burgundy that's carrying around an extra 50 pounds (um, I know that doesn't read like much of a compliment but it is)

Lazy Creek Vineyards 2006 Gewurztraminer - I prefer not to.

Ch. Suduiraut 1988 Sauternes - a bit flabby but charming otherwise, "I can smell that a block away" -Steve

Dom. des Baumard 1995 Coteaux du Layon - much better acidity than the Sauternes, ripeness is well-judged, very enjoyable

It was a pleasure meeting everyone and hobbying together. When can we do it again?
 
Ridge 1996 Petite Sirah, York Creek - today's object lesson that tannins are a preservative, brutal, unevolved, presumably very similar to itself 15+ years ago which prompts Steve to ask, "Is there any reason to give this grape a second look?"

Yes, but with this grape, in this vineyard, it can take decades. The great vintages do develop complexity and character.
 
Thanks for the notes Jeff, and extremely nice to meet you in person. Tom's last name is Hawley. As for the Ridge, I'm not sure I have enough time to wait for complexity to develop, even though my passive cellar usually speeds evolution considerably.
 
originally posted by Dan McQ:
Thanks for the notes Jeff, and extremely nice to meet you in person.

I had a great time meeting you and the gang, Dan.

Tom's last name is Hawley.

Thanks. Fixed.

As for the Ridge, I'm not sure I have enough time to wait for complexity to develop, even though my passive cellar usually speeds evolution considerably.

Heh.
 
Eyrie Melon de Bourgogne is a novelty.

I've had some very good Petite Sirah from Vincent Arroyo, though about two decades ago, and my tastes were different then. But the style was much different from the one conveyed by your note: lighter tannins, taut, rather classy.
 
originally posted by Christian Miller (CMM):
Ridge 1996 Petite Sirah, York Creek - today's object lesson that tannins are a preservative, brutal, unevolved, presumably very similar to itself 15+ years ago which prompts Steve to ask, "Is there any reason to give this grape a second look?"

Yes, but with this grape, in this vineyard, it can take decades. The great vintages do develop complexity and character.

Drank a 1975 last Saturday that was really nice. But, storage time is money and I'm still not sure that aging Petite Sirah pays off compared to some other varieties.
 
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
Eyrie Melon de Bourgogne is a novelty.

Quite. No real point to judge it on Quality/Price Ratio when you have such lovely lovelies from the gang around Nantes. It was mine- mostly brought for other Muscadet freaks like me. I wasn't going for a "gotchya" with the blind, just curious if anyone discerned the varietal- which unsurprisingly no one got.

Apparently the story is that the vines were part of the original order David Lett made from UC Davis. He thought he was getting Pinot Blanc (along with the Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay). So, pretty mature vines, different terroir expression. I might be projecting, since it wasn't blind to me (not to mention I brought it), but I did find some compelling traits. that Chablis-like stoniness, a bit more plump body, some floral elements, etc.

Anyway- another successful Peach Farm outing! Fun to see some of the Usual Suspects, as well as those I hadn't seen in both literal and figurative forever.
 
originally posted by Seth Hill:
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
Eyrie Melon de Bourgogne is a novelty.

Quite. No real point to judge it on Quality/Price Ratio when you have such lovely lovelies from the gang around Nantes. It was mine- mostly brought for other Muscadet freaks like me. I wasn't going for a "gotchya" with the blind, just curious if anyone discerned the varietal- which unsurprisingly no one got.

Apparently the story is that the vines were part of the original order David Lett made from UC Davis. He thought he was getting Pinot Blanc (along with the Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay). So, pretty mature vines, different terroir expression. I might be projecting, since it wasn't blind to me (not to mention I brought it), but I did find some compelling traits. that Chablis-like stoniness, a bit more plump body, some floral elements, etc.

Anyway- another successful Peach Farm outing! Fun to see some of the Usual Suspects, as well as those I hadn't seen in both literal and figurative forever.

I'm no soil maven, but the Willamette Valley Melon de Bourgogne I've tried grown on their Jory soil taste closer to the gneiss grown Muscadet then the granite ones.
Isabelle Dutartre at De Ponte Winery in the Dundee Hills makes a nice one.

It's probably not going to replace Luneau Papin from my cellar any time soon but I agree with you, they are fun to taste.
 
Great evening indeed!

Fully agree on the Clos Rougeard, wish I had more of that myself.

The Lauer Sekt I liked much more than you Jeff, I thought it was quite nice.

And the Trollinger was from Knauss, not Knaub, just for the record.
 
originally posted by Seth Hill:


Apparently the story is that the vines were part of the original order David Lett made from UC Davis. He thought he was getting Pinot Blanc (along with the Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay). So, pretty mature vines, different terroir expression. I might be projecting, since it wasn't blind to me (not to mention I brought it), but I did find some compelling traits. that Chablis-like stoniness, a bit more plump body, some floral elements, etc.

Anyway- another successful Peach Farm outing! Fun to see some of the Usual Suspects, as well as those I hadn't seen in both literal and figurative forever.

At least some of the 'Pinot Blanc' that Chalone used to make was Melon, and it was excellent.
 
originally posted by Oliver McCrum: some of the 'Pinot Blanc' that Chalone used to make was Melon, and it was excellent.

Oliver, No question! I can remember how tasty the Chalone Pinot Blancs were on many occasions.

It's been quite a while now since I had one, though (assuming it's still available).

. . . . . Pete
 
Belliviere 2002 Coteaux du Loir "Le Rouge-Gorge" - holy moly! what a great nose, "Like a barolo" -Matteo, drinks equally nicely

A stinky Barolo. Wish I had another bottle of this.

What's a Yankee doing in Red Sox territory anyway?
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
When can we do it again?

hopefully when I am free. Was agonizingly close to your location on Monday night, but no chance to break out.
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
The Lauer Sekt is probably some ancient vintage, not NV.
Both exist. Served the N.V. to a very appreciative crowd (with some other choices) this evening. Ap 3 561 100 5 11
Bought it 2 years or so ago. The '90 and '91 don't get poured (at least by me) so freely .
 
originally posted by Jim Hanlon:
originally posted by Christian Miller (CMM):
Ridge 1996 Petite Sirah, York Creek - today's object lesson that tannins are a preservative, brutal, unevolved, presumably very similar to itself 15+ years ago which prompts Steve to ask, "Is there any reason to give this grape a second look?"

Yes, but with this grape, in this vineyard, it can take decades. The great vintages do develop complexity and character.

Drank a 1975 last Saturday that was really nice. But, storage time is money and I'm still not sure that aging Petite Sirah pays off compared to some other varieties.

Based on that bottle (I and others drank it with him), I have to agree. It was delicious, don't get me wrong. However, I'm at the stage in my life where aging a wine 20+ more years seems kinda silly.
 
originally posted by kirk wallace:
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
The Lauer Sekt is probably some ancient vintage, not NV.
Both exist. Served the N.V. to a very appreciative crowd (with some other choices) this evening. Ap 3 561 100 5 11
Bought it 2 years or so ago. The '90 and '91 don't get poured (at least by me) so freely .

Opened the 2012 Fass 6 and Fass 17 this week, pretty spectacular.
 
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