TN: Wines over the weekend

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
I did not take notes at any table but I did drink a lot and do some scribbling after the fact.

On the Bird Day with family:

A bottle of FRV100, of course.

Marimar Torres 2008 Pinot Noir "Stony Block" sure is! Scratchy acidity, fine tannins, minerally and not at all frooty, lightweight and light texture, I like this

Ch. L’Echarderie (Vignobles Laffourcade) 2009 Coteaux du Layon just barely sweet, golden raisins and apricots, not a wine that shouts but a more conversational tone, long finish

Chamonard 1998 Morgon "Clos de Lys" stinky at first, with a couple hours it shows tannins, iron, and blue-black fruits

- - - - -

The next day in the cellar:

Breton 2004 Chinon "Picasses" open for three days without a cork in the neck; still quite pretty, firm, the only sign of decay is a late-arriving bitterness in the finish

Willi Schaefer 2012 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett - 03 13, also open 4 days (2 without a cork), a real beauty with depth and purity to spare

Trimbach 2006 Riesling "Cuvee Frederic Emile" warmer tones, softer acidity than the Schaefer

P. Amiot 1985 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er "Aux Charmes" an accidental purchase (Jay was looking for B. Amiot) but this is drinking nicely: the acidity is a tad sharp, with a slight sour mash aspect to it, but the fruit is still there, red and red and red, and still, faintly, that gamy/venison note that is a signature for MSD. I note that this vineyard is on the line with Gevrey but it doesn't taste at all like Gevrey. If anything, I was speculating that it was rather Vosne-like.

P.S. According to Coates, the P. Amiot domaine is still in business, run by the two sons.

- - - - -

At a dinner hosted by Jay Miller:

WHITES

Benoit Lahaye 2006 Champagne Brut GC medium toasty, medium leesy, rather dry, a bit less personality than the 2007 but still likable

Rhys 2010 Chardonnay, Alpine Vineyard ugh, oh this is SO not doing it for me, I had to rinse my glass immediately

Selbach-Oster 2008 Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling "Schmitt" I think this wine was nice enough but the Schaefer overshadowed it

Willi Schaefer 2012 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese #14 from 375ml, this wine had a lovely sweet str-e-t-ch in the midpalate that gave it the appearance of weight without being at all heavy

J. J. Christoffel 2001 Erdner Trepchen Riesling Spatlese I don’t remember

J. J. Christoffel 2001 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese I don’t remember

REDS

Roty 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin "Champs Chenys" VV a bruiser, big and sweet and swaggering; good in a tough-guy way

Ferrando 2004 Carema (white label) Thunderbird prize; not earth-shaking but a really nice nebbiolo wine with a little fragrance of roses, a little scratch of their tannic thorns, a little dank something or other from their roots

Champy 1996 Volnay 1er "Les Caillerets" singing in a gravelly bass-baritone voice, Jay thinks this might be very slightly corked, Scott says this is not a representative showing

Montevertine 1999 IGT "Pergole Torte" ah, chianti for grown-ups, this is suave and cheerful, dry earth and red fruits, falls apart after about an hour

POST-PRANDIALS

Henriques & Henriques 1898 Verdelho Solera brown butter! unctuous

Dom. Dupont 1972 Bas-Armagnac

Ch. Ravignan 1979 Bas-Armagnac

Lemorton 1970 Calvados Domfrontais pleasantly soft, I always like this brandy although it seems really soft following the armagnacs

Cazottes Prunelart really charismatic fire-water
 
Jeff,

I believe the Selbach-Oster Schmitt was the 2008. I don't recall the vineyard on the Rhys, but I was not a fan. Found it too heavy handed and clumsy, especially in the company of the Rieslings and the Lahaye Champagne.
 
This was the very first Rhys Chardonnay I've had which didn't wow me. I didn't dislike it as much as everyone else but I'll let my other bottle sleep for a while in the hope that it's just shut down. Not especially enjoyable at the moment.

The Willi Schaefer 2012 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese #14 was my WOTN, haunting ethereal beauty.

Of the 2 JJCs, the Urziger Wurzgarten was definitely my favorite, though Salil says that's a recent development and the ET had been showing better for years.

The P. Amiot was a great relief, some beautiful aromatics, crunch red fruit, good complexity. I wasn't especially taken with the 2006 Trimbach FE that day.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Chamonard 1998 Morgon "Clos de Lys" stinky at first, with a couple hours it shows tannins, iron, and blue-black fruits
Anyone know if Jeff liked the wine? :-)

Willi Schaefer 2012 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett - 03 13, also open a day, a real beauty with depth and purity to spare
4 days, 2 without a cork.
(thank you for selling me this bottle - you know who you are)

Trimbach 2006 Riesling "Cuvee Frederic Emile" warmer tones, softer acidity than the Schaefer
I am with Jay. It's riper than where I like Fred; and while I appreciate that it maintains the classic spring flower/honey aromas at this level, it's not as grounded or steely on the palate as the best example of this wine.

P. Amiot 1985 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er "Aux Charmes" an accidental purchase (Jay was looking for B. Amiot) but this is drinking nicely: the acidity is a tad sharp, with a slight sour mash aspect to it, but the fruit is still there, red and red and red, and still, faintly, that gamy/venison note that is a signature for MSD. I note that this vineyard is on the line with Gevrey but it doesn't taste at all like Gevrey. If anything, I was speculating that it was rather Vosne-like.
Man, are we catching this juice at the right time. Wow. Plenty of secondary sweetness, but none of it generic, totally characteristic of its dirt, whatever it is.
 
originally posted by Jay Miller:
Of the 2 JJCs, the Urziger Wurzgarten was definitely my favorite, though Salil says that's a recent development and the ET had been showing better for years.

isn't that supposed to be the pattern?
 
Some Rhys Chardonnays start to really drink well after a couple years. Alpine actually has a great rainwater, saline spine that comes out more after a couple years in bottle. The 2007 is a perfect example and is really starting to show beautifully now, as is the 2008. A couple years in bottle seems to shed the baby fat.
 
originally posted by Rob Lateiner:
Some Rhys Chardonnays start to really drink well after a couple years. Alpine actually has a great rainwater, saline spine that comes out more after a couple years in bottle. The 2007 is a perfect example and is really starting to show beautifully now, as is the 2008. A couple years in bottle seems to shed the baby fat.

I like what they do with age but I also usually love them on release.
 
originally posted by .sasha:
originally posted by Jay Miller:
Of the 2 JJCs, the Urziger Wurzgarten was definitely my favorite, though Salil says that's a recent development and the ET had been showing better for years.

isn't that supposed to be the pattern?

Not enough experience with ET to say but I am generally underwhelmed by JJC UW on release and love it 10+ years down the line.
 
Have folks been drinking the 02 Christoffels recently? How have they been holding up? And weren't there two different bottlings of each vineyard or something like that due to the switch over to Eymael. How have they each been doing? I remember the 'cheap' versions that were on blowout in the mid 2000s didn't seem like they would last long, but they were great then.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
02 ChristoffelHave folks been drinking the 02 Christoffels recently? How have they been holding up? And weren't there two different bottlings of each vineyard or something like that due to the switch over to Eymael. How have they each been doing? I remember the 'cheap' versions that were on blowout in the mid 2000s didn't seem like they would last long, but they were great then.

I have the cheap versions, and they were drinking well from the start, but remain fresh and balanced. Not surprising for 2002.
Didn't realize there was more to it than the usual multiple AP numbers (?)
 
Yeah, I have hazy memories of the details. But somehow the words "cheap" and "don't age" were stuck in my head for the Christoffel 02s and 03s, and then I stopped seeing the wines. Until recently. Hence my question. Maybe "don't age" was for the 03s. Or maybe I was totally off.

Regardless, glad to hear about your experiences.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
Yeah, I have hazy memories of the details. But somehow the words "cheap" and "don't age" were stuck in my head for the Christoffel 02s and 03s, and then I stopped seeing the wines. Until recently. Hence my question. Maybe "don't age" was for the 03s.
A bunch of 02s and 03s (Kabinett and Spätlese) were sealed under plastic cork.

I've had some '02 Christoffel UW Auslese in the past (under real cork) that was very good. If the closures can be trusted, I don't see why the wines should be bad.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
Yeah, I have hazy memories of the details. But somehow the words "cheap" and "don't age" were stuck in my head for the Christoffel 02s and 03s, and then I stopped seeing the wines. Until recently. Hence my question. Maybe "don't age" was for the 03s. Or maybe I was totally off.

Regardless, glad to hear about your experiences.

I think the notion that the 2003s wouldn't age came from the way they were dumped on the market. Truth is they have aged very well.

A bottle of the 2005 Chidaine Montlouis Tuffeaux was just delightful with dinner the other night. The acidity rose to a lovely vibrancy as dinner went on.
 
originally posted by .sasha:
I have the cheap versions, and they were drinking well from the start, but remain fresh and balanced. Not surprising for 2002.

Didn't realize there was more to it than the usual multiple AP numbers (?)

This would have been my reply. We opened an 02 UW SL a couple of weeks ago that was perfectly good, if not quite von Hoevel Scharzhofberger.

originally posted by Tristan Welles:
[...] Truth is the [03s] have aged very well.

This, too. I'm sorry now to have slurped down so many fairly young. The last ET AL I opened (year or so ago) seemed still to be on the upswing, with a pile of years still in it.

I still have quite a few 02 ET & UW Ausleses and should probably be digging into them.
 
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons: perfectly good, if not quite von Hoevel Scharzhofberger

What is your point here? Do you love that wine? Especially in 02? I usually find it considerably less interesting than the Oberemmeler Hütte and thought that was the consensus view.
 
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