A laquered pork, 6 Saint-Joseph & 3 Loire at the TGJP

P

pab

pierre-alain benoit
Hello,
We made a very nice dinner at the TGJP in Paris last friday with Gail G. and Jonathan L., a laquered pork and 6 red Saint-Joseph 2010-2011 (Gonon, Faurie, Souhaut and 7 Lunes) and 3 white Loire (Collier from Antoine Foucault & Richard Leroy). See
www.tgjp.com
Ask any questions on the forum and I will try to answer.
Best regards
pierre-alain benoit
 
Baudry Chinon with foie gras, that would be quite an unusual choice for me but it worked eh. Like the mention of the Maury, my french is still pretty good so could follow and appreciate your fine notes.
 
That is a magnificent mille-feuille! Congratulations to your friend.

A question about the wines: When comparing the Rougeard and Druet you mention that they are from different AOCs (yes, of course) but I get the impression that you have additional notions about the two regions. If that is true can you say more about your perceptions of Saumur vs Bourgeuil?

(I ask because, even in NYC, there are not many Saumur available and Rougeard is atypical.)
 
originally posted by Bob Parsons Alberta:
Baudry Chinon with foie gras, that would be quite an unusual choice for me but it worked eh. Like the mention of the Maury, my french is still pretty good so could follow and appreciate your fine notes.
Click to expand...

Foie gras + sweet wine = fats + sugar = too much
I prefer a straight white or a tannin's red.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
That is a magnificent mille-feuille! Congratulations to your friend.

A question about the wines: When comparing the Rougeard and Druet you mention that they are from different AOCs (yes, of course) but I get the impression that you have additional notions about the two regions. If that is true can you say more about your perceptions of Saumur vs Bourgeuil?

(I ask because, even in NYC, there are not many Saumur available and Rougeard is atypical.)
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Mille-feuille came from a new japanese shop.
I dont't know too many things about the two AOC. And Clos Rougeard is more a Clos Rougeard than a saumur (very atypical).
Druet like Brégeon is not the new kid of the block. He was at the end of the 80' at the top in a very "chimical" region. But, he's "a cellar winemaker" from Bordeaux and did'nt understand or didn't want to understand (economic reason)that the wine must be made in the vineyard. So the 1989 was a nice wine, but very far from the top gun Clos Rougeard.
Best regards
pierre-alain benoit
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
That is a magnificent mille-feuille!
Click to expand...

The cake is from this store: http://moriyoshida.fr/
As I understood the discussion at dinner, the baker is Japanese born and specializes in traditional French desserts.

And the reds did indeed work with the foie gras/brioche/jelly combo. The brioche seemed to have some sweetness that might not have worked with a sweet white.

And the culatello was an "ossocollo" that looked something like this: http://www.marcadoc.it/gustare/ossocollotrevigiano.htm

The "fassona" was a bresaola like product from the piemontese cattle breed.
 
originally posted by scottreiner:
Saumur: Try anything from Hureau. Very traditional and really yummy, and much cheaper than Rougeard...
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I don't know what's mean a "traditional" wine in USA. But, in France it's not a high value. And in a so "little" AOC like Saumur, it's a pity.
 
originally posted by pab:
originally posted by scottreiner:
Saumur: Try anything from Hureau. Very traditional and really yummy, and much cheaper than Rougeard...
Click to expand...

I don't know what's mean a "traditional" wine in USA. But, in France it's not a high value. And in a so "little" AOC like Saumur, it's a pity.
Click to expand...
Well, the only Saumur in my archive are Nerleux and Filliatreau.
 
originally posted by pab:
originally posted by scottreiner:
Saumur: Try anything from Hureau. Very traditional and really yummy, and much cheaper than Rougeard...
Click to expand...

I don't know what's mean a "traditional" wine in USA. But, in France it's not a high value. And in a so "little" AOC like Saumur, it's a pity.
Click to expand...

No new oak, picking early, etc...
 
Indeed. I recently had a nice enough bottle of the 2010 F-S Saumur Blanc "Arcane" that was certainly a fun enough aperitif-type wine, but I wasn't really excited about seeking out more for further exploration. Was I too hasty in my judgment?
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
originally posted by Yixin:
Fosse-Seche (atypical terroir, I import them).
Click to expand...
Tell us more?

I am just getting to know them.
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Don't trust hyphenated producers myself. There is usually some scheme involved to pay less tax.
 
originally posted by .sasha:

Don't trust hyphenated producers myself. There is usually some scheme involved to pay less tax.
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I'll keep those Coche-Dury, Mugneret-Gibourg and Meo-Camuzets to myself, then. No sense offending your sensibilities.

Mark Lipton-Lipton
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
originally posted by Yixin:
Fosse-Seche (atypical terroir, I import them).
Click to expand...
Tell us more?

I am just getting to know them.
Click to expand...

The Kellers? As name suggests, not native, and perhaps more interesting. Son (adopted) is a good guy.

Southwestern corner of the appellation, less chalk, more schist and old rocks. Influence of river attenuated by the exposition. More Anjou than Touraine, unlike say Saumur-Champigny. As an aside I've always preferred to group Saumur, Bourgueil and Chinon together as a separate sub-region (Sa-Bo-Chi) apart from Anjou and Touraine.

Good farming, more land given over to silage than grapes (!). Plenty of potential as they're still finding their way in the field.

Winemaking is solid and improving. Some experimentation, of course.

Arcane is the wine I drink the most of. Eolithe and the Reserve (both reds), less so. Les Tris (distinctly off-dry, and much more Anjou-inflected than any other wine) is good but not a wine made for everyday consumption. 2009 was one of my favourite vintages there, but 2010 and 2011 are very nicely structured.
 
originally posted by Yixin:
As an aside I've always preferred to group Saumur, Bourgueil and Chinon together as a separate sub-region (Sa-Bo-Chi) apart from Anjou and Touraine.
Click to expand...

I was just reading an article from my daughter's medieval russian history course

You'd fit right in. At a pretty high level, I expect
 
originally posted by Yixin:
originally posted by SFJoe:
originally posted by Yixin:
Fosse-Seche (atypical terroir, I import them).
Click to expand...
Tell us more?

I am just getting to know them.
Click to expand...

The Kellers? As name suggests, not native, and perhaps more interesting. Son (adopted) is a good guy.

Southwestern corner of the appellation, less chalk, more schist and old rocks. Influence of river attenuated by the exposition. More Anjou than Touraine, unlike say Saumur-Champigny. As an aside I've always preferred to group Saumur, Bourgueil and Chinon together as a separate sub-region (Sa-Bo-Chi) apart from Anjou and Touraine.

Good farming, more land given over to silage than grapes (!). Plenty of potential as they're still finding their way in the field.

Winemaking is solid and improving. Some experimentation, of course.

Arcane is the wine I drink the most of. Eolithe and the Reserve (both reds), less so. Les Tris (distinctly off-dry, and much more Anjou-inflected than any other wine) is good but not a wine made for everyday consumption. 2009 was one of my favourite vintages there, but 2010 and 2011 are very nicely structured.
Click to expand...

This is a wine we just started to import to the US. We tasted it last February at the Salon and knew we wanted to import it.

The soil has iron oxides in addition to silex and has a unique look to it. I will try and get a nice picture of a rock I have and post it. The domaine is situated on a site founded by Benedictine monks with wine making dating back to the 13th century.

As for the current wine making, they use these large converted beer transport tanks. Sort of like a sideways silo. No racking or stirring, just the natural movement of lees in these large tanks.

The Arcane shows great vintage difference. The 2010 is fresh and lively whereas the 2011 will have some botrytis character.

They also run an organic certified bird sanctuary!
 
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