Some Champagne

Todd Abrams

Todd Abrams
Blasted through a bunch of grower Champagne the last couple of weeks. All Wasserman Selections. A few quick notes:

Didier-Ducos Brut L’Ablutien - Aromatically layered and poundable. Rich, yet balanced. A crowd pleaser.

Didier-Ducos Petale de Rose - I thought the name must be influencing my perception of the aromatics, being all floral. Whatever. Drinks like the raspberry cocktail that you might get served in your version of Heaven.

Gerard Loriot Tradition - 100% Pinot Meunier with the highest dosage of this assortment and it shows. Made me want to eat something spicy.

Serveaux Et Fils Carte Noire - Pinot Meunier based. The most austere of the bunch both in aromatics and flavor, although part of the issue might have been the fact we were drinking it with the Loriot.

Serveaux Et Fils Carte D'Or - Had this a week after the Carte Noire. Much more expressive. Much more Chardonnay.

Jose Dhondt Blanc des Blancs - Big green apple up front that quickly mellowed into a lovely balance. A customer drank half the bottle when we weren't looking.

Vincent Carre Trepail Premier Cru - Nicely balanced and slightly fleshier than the Dhondt.

Le Brun Servanay Exhilarante VV 2004 - Le Brun's signature cuvee. Gorgeous aromatics and flavors. A heady Champagne full of life.
 
is Dhont NV a little lighter on its feet than the vintage tends to be?

and this is not meant as criticism of the vintage, which I admire, but which comes across with an unusual "low yield" texture for any champagne I've encountered
 
Dhondt Rose was great in mid-December, and another bottle was opened for New Years and evaporated quickly. Delicious wine, very distinctive and winey, in a good way.
 
Looking forward to the answers.

I like that particular distribution source for my bubbles. Holiday highlights included Godme Rose and Camille Saves Carte Blanche. As much as I try to experiment, always seem to return to these.
 
Interesting. Both predominantly Pinot Noir.

The 2004 Le Brun Servanay Exhilarante blew me, and every one else at the table, away.
 
originally posted by Todd Abrams:
Interesting. Both predominantly Pinot Noir.

Yes, but as a lurker gentleman and I noted yesterday, after draining another bottle of the Saves in record time, the 25% non-pinot contributes most constructively, with a delightful and refreshing pit fruit quality that remains harmonious with the roundness of pinot.
 
originally posted by .sasha:
is Dhont NV a little lighter on its feet than the vintage tends to be?

and this is not meant as criticism of the vintage, which I admire, but which comes across with an unusual "low yield" texture for any champagne I've encountered

That is an interesting point.
 
originally posted by Levi Dalton:
originally posted by .sasha:
is Dhont NV a little lighter on its feet than the vintage tends to be?

and this is not meant as criticism of the vintage, which I admire, but which comes across with an unusual "low yield" texture for any champagne I've encountered

That is an interesting point.

that is an interesting point.

fb. (aka teh notorious d.o.u.c.h.e., esq.)
 
originally posted by .sasha:
is Dhont NV a little lighter on its feet than the vintage tends to be?

and this is not meant as criticism of the vintage, which I admire, but which comes across with an unusual "low yield" texture for any champagne I've encountered

Drank a few glasses of the 2008 Dhondt for breakfast yesterday. It definitely has a density that's more conspicuous than the NV.

It's actually quite similar in texture to the vintage Le Brun Servanay Exhilarante that is made with 80% chardonnay from grand cru parcels.
 
originally posted by .sasha:
...Camille Saves Carte Blanche.

This showed particularly well in a lineup of eight Champagnes we tasted through recently. Simultaneously complex and joyful. I can see how it might become a go-to wine.
 
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