TN: Jay and Arnold's House (Jan 12, 2014)

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
attendees: Jay & Arnold, Don & Melissa, Marty & Jill, Suzanne & Kenny, Eden & Scott, Andrew & Jennifer, Sharon, Brad, Chris, Jeff

A pleasure of the winter season is the wino gathering at Jay and Arnold's house. As you can see, many illustrious inebriates were present, and much merry was made.

The table and the counters were heaped with plates, notably a whole roast suckling pig (yes, apple in mouth). But there was also boeuf bourguignon, darkly hued, and lumpia with their sauce. There was a tray of sisig made with squid (and lettuce leaves to wrap). Of course, the smell of freshly-baked gougeres wafted down the hallway. Several small bowls offered up smoked duck and crispy little fishes. Finally, there was the hallucinatory-good babka, as well as cake and pie -- no one got away without some dessert!

And a few drinks, too:

O. Raffault 1993 Chinon Blanc "Champs-Chenin" - this is all chenin, as the name suggests, but it is sold in very limited quantities, even Don has only had it once or twice; this bottle seems a bit closed up, sulfury, high acide, light texture, it offers more citrus than honey, we decant it a while to try to wake it up

Karthauserhof 2011 Eitelsbacher Karthauserhofberg Riesling Spatlese - spring water, flowery, ethereal

Dirler 2004 Grand Cru Spiegel Riesling - much more serious, much more texture, quite dry, flavor reminds me of orange blossoms but only just barely

Musar 1975 Blanc - decanted for some time, I taste resin and nail polish... and it wows me; later on, perhaps less so

Selosse "Substance" - disgorged 11-Jan-2002, wow, what depth of flavor, meaty, umami-filled, tingly, long, best wine all night

Drouhin 2010 Beaune 1er Greves - bright cherries, dancing and transparent, I like (as do others)

Ch. Magdelaine 1995 St-Emilion GC - a good bottle but a bit hollow (or closed) in the mid-palate; the structure is subduing the fruit; maybe it will open up later

Dom. de Roally 1996 Macon-Vire "Tradition" - clean, crisp, nicely ripe, I like this and I am no friend to white burgundy

Prager 2001 Riesling Achleiten Smaragd - beautiful, green grapes, winey, silky but not at all unctuous or sticky

Jasmin 2005 Cote-Rotie - tannic, very ripe, spirity black cherries, yum

Ogier 1995 Cote-Rotie - more funky than the Jasmin, also spirity, dried fruit and kirsch, also yum

Lapierre 2011 Morgon - sturdy, vigorous, slightly astringent, slightly exciting

B. Amiot 1993 Chambolle-Musigny "Les Chatelots" - slight sour mash nose, mid-weight, pleasant or a bit more

Herve Souhaut 2011 "La Souteronne" - unlike some other wines this is gamay from just outside of St-Joseph, gorgeous, rich and dark, Sharon says the St-Epine is also worth trying

Freemark Abbey 1984 Cabernet Sauvignon - yup

Below here my notes are sketchy-to-non-existant:

Huet 1990 Vouvray Moelleux "Le Haut Lieu" - no note?

Drouhin 1993 Bonnes Mares - corked

Eminence Road 2012 Pinot Noir "Elizabeth's Vineyard"

Bow & Arrow 2012 Pinot Noir, Chehalem AVA - good, dry

Mongeard-Mugneret 2007 Chambolle-Musigny 1er "Les Orveaux" - fresh, minerally

Maximin Grunhauser 2002 Schubert'sch Schlosskellerei Riesling Auslese

Dom. du Traginer (J-F Deu) NV Banyuls "d'Ambre" - aged 13 years, I liked this because it was mildly sweet but not cloying

PS. Jay gave me pork and beef to take home, as well as a slice of babka. You know what got eaten first!

ETA: Photo of pig (click to embiggen)!
 
You're missing some notes...

I'd like to see a tasting of "Wines with babka".

Oh, and is that Dirler the same as Dirler-Cade? I think the name was added after a marriage.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Jasmin 2005 Cote-Rotie - tannic, very ripe, spirity black cherries, yum

That's good to hear. For whatever reason I decided to drink a bunch of the 05 over the past few years when it was still tannic and tougher. Now I only have 06. At least I know what would have happened if I waited!
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
B. Amiot 1993 Chambolle-Musigny "Les Chatelots" - slight sour mash nose, mid-weight, pleasant or a bit more

...

Drouhin 1993 Bonnes Mares - corked

More to add, but just quickly to say that the former was the one flagged as having TCA. I thought it was more as you describe; just not very interesting. The Bonnes Mares was a great wine, IME.
 
'93 bonnes-mares drouhin is a beautiful thing, last tasted in 2009 though
 
There was also a 2012 Willi Schaefer GD Spatlese #10 which was an impressive young wine with emphasis on the young. Salil was right, don't open for a while. Drink your 2011s in the meantime.

There was something a little bit off about the 1993 B. Amiot but I still liked it and don't think there was any TCA.

One more correction - the excellent smoked duck from the Union Square Farmer's market was on a small platter, not a small bowl.
 
originally posted by Jay Miller:
I was pretty sure the 1993 Bonnes Mares was corked and a number of others concurred.

Brad assures me it was not.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
originally posted by Jay Miller:
One more correction - the excellent smoked duck from the Union Square Farmer's market was on a small platter, not a small bowl.
Bowl!

A Riedel Union Square Farmer's Market Smoked Duck Bowl !
 
originally posted by .sasha:
originally posted by Jay Miller:
I was pretty sure the 1993 Bonnes Mares was corked and a number of others concurred.

Brad assures me it was not.

I heard it was and passed on it.

A fun time as always with the usual eclectic mix. I guess I must've tried the Magdelaine later as I thought it showed quite nicely and was surprised how accessible it was for a '95 as I've found that the '95s, by and large, are still pretty grumpy.

I was pleasantly surprised by the Bow & Arrow Pinot, which I don't ever recall trying. Andrew also did a super job with the '12 Eminence Road Pinot. Quite a lot of fruit and snap in that one.

The Schaefer, Karthauserhof, Prager, Ogier, Jasmin, Huet and Lapierre were also all in very fine form. I found the Raffault Blanc a bit too extreme and in need of flesh to balance things out. The Musar was interesting in that it smelled and tasted of butterscotch and espresso. Didn't love it, didn't hate it. The Freemark abbey was rather lifeless and the Grunhauser was, too, though I suspect it may have seen some heat along the way as it was much darker than it should have been.
 
originally posted by Brad Kane:
I guess I must've tried the Magdelaine later as I thought it showed quite nicely and was surprised how accessible it was for a '95 as I've found that the '95s, by and large, are still pretty grumpy.

I double decanted the 95 last month on the way to dinner, and it was reasonably accessible 2.5 hours later. But I do think there is more to come here; it's the sort of wine that might fill out towards maturity.

As to grumpy 95s, that is a very interesting subject. (Not to be confused with an interesting point). Not sure I've sorted out all the spoof in 1995 yet. I think I have a handle on the dark side in 1994, 1997, 1998 by now, but the natural quality of fruit is so magnificent in 1995 that if it hasn't been completely ruined by alchemy, a snapshot in your glass today may still strike you as inconclusive. If you've had a 95 that was somehow both generous and rigid, with structure that seemed superimposed - as opposed to all aspects of wine uniformly coiled into a closed entity - then raise your hand.
 
If we can generalize (which, really, we can't), my understanding has been that 1995 was the last vintage where, say, a majority of the wines were still spoof-free. But I am definitely no expert.
 
originally posted by Michael Lewis:
If we can generalize (which, really, we can't), my understanding has been that 1995 was the last vintage where, say, a majority of the wines were still spoof-free. But I am definitely no expert.

I'd say more like '96. From my experience, things really started to change with the '94s, but in my mind, it wasn't until the '98s when you had the right bank garagistes in ascendency and lefties like Pape Clement had clearly changed their style.
 
Back
Top