holger koch grauburgunder herrenstueck 2010 . this was supposed to be the 08, but i wasn't paying enough attention. es tut mir leid. opens closed, with a hint of the christmassy barf note that gerontophiles dig in the cote d'or (maybe this is what teh pointsguys were pimping, way back when). thankfully, this blows off with time, leading to fresher notes of melon, quince and brass. powerful, but not exactly aromatic. crunchy and mineral in teh mouth.
jochen beurer's weiss trocken 2013 offers comfort for those seeking something more conventional. a blend of muller-thurgau, silvaner and weissburgunder from a mix of gipskeuper and various jurassic soils, this is playful, saline and surprisingly lengthy. initally a tad shy, the silvaner -- which is all about smell in 13 -- dominates the aromatics, which become positively beguiling with air. yeah, it sings with teh spargel, but really i want to drink it by the bathload.
domaine des cavarodes chardonnay guille bouton 2011 is cool shit. though the ginger snap phenolics on the nose put me in mind of long gone ramonets, in the mouth this is pure jura. a nice reminder of the transparency of chardonnay in teh right hands. send etienne thibaud a carrier pigeon and see if he'll sell you some.
domaine bablut anjou villages brissac 2010 is a pretty wine that reminds me that 30% cab sauv is too much for this fatguy in teh loire. well made shit, or so says teh fatsink.
a bottle of ch cornelie, haut medoc 2010 is opened in its stead. it reminds me that despite the vicissitudes, teh sauv has a time and a place. i dig this. turns out you really can flog a dead horse.
finally, we broach some clos du jaugueyron, haut medoc 2008 and luxuriate in teh retro journey. a tad reduced on opening, it ultimately shows much finer than the cornelie. a svelte, crisp and gently regal bottle, it drinks like a jason molina song about the days where ripe bordeaux did not mean 13+ degrees of alcohol (let alone fucking 15).