Can we smell the acidity of a wine?

Oswaldo Costa

Oswaldo Costa
I am having a discussion with some members of my Brazilian wine board in which I say that we cannot smell any of the four most important wine acids (only, tautologically, volatile acidity) while they say we (or they) can.

One even went so far as to get the testimony of an ear nose and throat specialist who said that we detect acids that irritate the nasal membranes. I replied that malic, tartaric, citric and lactic acids are all completely non-volatile at anywhere near room temperature, and thus impossible to detect in the nose. But I am basing myself on the Wine 101 idea that acidity, sweetness, bitterness and saltiness are the exclusive province of the mouth.

Dr. Lipton has already confirmed (in private correspondence) that I am correct in terms of the acids in their pure states, but it would be great if anyone has any evidence for these acids when dissolved in wine (e.g., off the top of my head, the temperatures at which these four acids become volatile when in a 13% solution should all be above 100 celcius, or something like that).
 
Oswaldo, volatility is a continuum. A substance may be a solid at room temperature, but it will nonetheless have a vapor pressure at that temperature. The critical issue is whether that vapor pressure is above the sensory threshold. For the acids in question, I've done a bit of googling, but I don't have a definitive answer. I did find a study that correlated atmospheric malic acid levels with biogenic activity, so it seems that there is at least a way for these molecules to get into the air.

However, in my opinion, a much more likely reason for being able to "smell acid" is simply that the pH of the wine will control how much of a given substance is in a charged vs. a neutral form. Despite what I said above, charged species in solution are essentially non-volatile and so will not contribute to the aroma of a wine. Thus, while it may be true that we do not smell the main wine acids, we almost certainly smell their effects.
 
originally posted by Arjun Mendiratta:

However, in my opinion, a much more likely reason for being able to "smell acid" is simply that the pH of the wine will control how much of a given substance is in a charged vs. a neutral form. Despite what I said above, charged species in solution are essentially non-volatile and so will not contribute to the aroma of a wine. Thus, while it may be true that we do not smell the main wine acids, we almost certainly smell their effects.

nicely put.

and of course, "smell" is an odd verb that is all too easily misunderstood as an analog of "see." points guys aside, it would seem that our brains have evolved solely in order to make megatastings pointless.

fb.
 
Thank you, Arjun, I would certainly have supposed that we can detect the effects of these four acids on other components, but the people I am debating think that you can sometimes directly detect the acidity of a wine before putting it in your mouth, and that seems to me patently impossible. But just calling them dumb bitches is not clinching the discussion.
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
the people I am debating think that you can sometimes directly detect the acidity of a wine before putting it in your mouth, and that seems to me patently impossible.

all of which is enough to drive anyone to drink.

fb.
 
I do not believe that aqueous, undissociated acids in solution have sufficient vapor pressure to cause any olfactory activity. In any event, while one may be able to smell a volatile acid (like acetic acid), it is still not possible to smell acidity. The olfactory response is separate from the taste response. Acidity is a phenomenon that is detected on the tongue and in other parts of the oral cavity at taste receptor cells. Even the irritation caused by mineral and organic acids is not "smelling" the acidity, it is an irritation/pain response.
 
from the paper i linked to above:

"continuous olfactory stimulation results in a shut-down of cognitive perception with a time constant of around 2.5 s while the response of the physiological system (receptors, transduction and relay system) declines by about 50% with a slower time course (≥4 s)."

just because acidity is detected on the tongue, it does not follow that a complex cognitive organ like a brain that has been trained on stimuli detected by multiple correlated sensory inputs can't or won't infer things that it isn't actually detecting from those correlates that are actually being detected, just as it doesn't follow that something is perceived simply because it is detected.

in fact, if our brains weren't busy making some shit up while ignoring other shit that really is there all the time, the thing we simplistically call "perception" probably wouldn't work at all.

or to put it another way, univariate absolutism in the face of this kind of multivariate empirical complexity is enough to drive this fat dude to drink.

fb.
 
originally posted by Greg Hirson:
I do not believe that aqueous, undissociated acids in solution have sufficient vapor pressure to cause any olfactory activity. In any event, while one may be able to smell a volatile acid (like acetic acid), it is still not possible to smell acidity. The olfactory response is separate from the taste response. Acidity is a phenomenon that is detected on the tongue and in other parts of the oral cavity at taste receptor cells. Even the irritation caused by mineral and organic acids is not "smelling" the acidity, it is an irritation/pain response.
I think your point about not smelling "acidity" is probably correct (though I certainly tried throughout my career not to smell too many of my experiments, so my sample is small), but a compound like tartaric acid is certainly complicated enough to have a smell of its own, beyond acidity. Though that smell is quite possibly below the threshold of its very low volatility from wine.
 
originally posted by Arjun Mendiratta:
Thus, while it may be true that we do not smell the main wine acids, we almost certainly smell their effects.
That is likely true, though I expect we 'smell' more pH than TA, while TA is probably closer to a relevant measure for how we perceive acidity in the mouth.
 
originally posted by fatboy:
"continuous olfactory stimulation results in a shut-down of cognitive perception with a time constant of around 2.5 s while the response of the physiological system (receptors, transduction and relay system) declines by about 50% with a slower time course (≥4 s)."
I have also noticed that my state of satiety influences my perception of wine. When I am full I have less interest and don't perceive as well.
 
originally posted by fatboy:
from the paper i linked to above:

"continuous olfactory stimulation results in a shut-down of cognitive perception with a time constant of around 2.5 s while the response of the physiological system (receptors, transduction and relay system) declines by about 50% with a slower time course (≥4 s)."
Does this mean that a wine with a 60 second finish has gone 15 half-lives?
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:

I have also noticed that my state of satiety influences my perception of wine. When I am full I have less interest and don't perceive as well.

basically, your sensory system is working against you from teh first sip.

hence the infamous fatformula for doublefisting.

fb.
 
originally posted by SFJoe:

Does this mean that a wine with a 60 second finish has gone 15 half-lives?

it's probably advises against gargling. i'll warn teh fatsink.

fb.
 
originally posted by fatboy:
from the paper i linked to above:

"continuous olfactory stimulation results in a shut-down of cognitive perception with a time constant of around 2.5 s while the response of the physiological system (receptors, transduction and relay system) declines by about 50% with a slower time course (≥4 s)."

I'll stipulate to be working from the abstract (will you do the same?), but I believe the 'shut-down' of cognitive perception describes a shutdown of olfactory perception as measured by the OERP.

just because acidity is detected on the tongue, it does not follow that a complex cognitive organ like a brain that has been trained on stimuli detected by multiple correlated sensory inputs can't or won't infer things that it isn't actually detecting from those correlates that are actually being detected, just as it doesn't follow that something is perceived simply because it is detected.

Agreed, though it doesn't follow from this line of reasoning that one can smell acidity, merely that an associating between an aroma and a taste can lead to the perception of acidity.

From Odor/taste integration and the perception of flavor (full-text pdf here)

"Like the acquisition of taste qualities by odors, the ability of these odors to influence taste perceptions has also been shown to be a function of associative
learning. Odors that initially either had either no impact on sucrose sweetness or actually suppressed sweetness were both found to enhance sweetness
following an exposure phase of repeated pairings with sucrose in solution (Prescott )."

The associations between odor and taste are real, but they are learned, not sensed.

Perhaps the question to be answered: Is there any reason to make a distinction between the physiological response to acidity (or any sensory stimulus) and the perception of acidity (or any sensory stimulus) as a higher brain function when discussing food and drink? I believe there is. Discussions over actual sweetness (RS) versus perceived sweetness (no RS, seems sweet) would be moot.

2008 Navarro, Muscat Blanc Dry:
13.6% alcohol, 3.32 pH, 7.6 grams TA, $19; the nose is ginger, peach and a hint of juniper; its not bone dry but there is no RS so the fruit sweetness is backed with great acids and the juniper notes have more volume here then on the nose; long, slightly tight finish. This wine has the concentration and structure to age but is wonderful now with Asian food. And I would be hard pressed to think of another dry muscat from anywhere that is as charming.


2012 Greek Wine Cellars, Assyrtiko Santorini:
12.5% abv; aromas, textures and flavors that reference Chenin blanc with the addition of some sappy fruit that is both sweet and bright (the wine, however, is dry); best at refrigerator temperature as it becomes oddly cloying at room temp. Probably not. $13.
 
originally posted by Greg Hirson:


I'll stipulate to be working from the abstract (will you do the same?), but I believe the 'shut-down' of cognitive perception describes a shutdown of olfactory perception as measured by the OERP.

no. message me and i can send you the paper if you like. the cognitive perception was measured by a psychometric test -- subjects had to push a button when they smelled a stimulus.

what the oerps show is that the subjects soon adapt to the stimuli -- they fail to smell them, even though their brains can clearly detect them. and that adaptation rates for perception and detection are different.

Agreed, though it doesn't follow from this line of reasoning that one can smell acidity, merely that an associating between an aroma and a taste can lead to the perception of acidity.

From Odor/taste integration and the perception of flavor (full-text pdf here)

"Like the acquisition of taste qualities by odors, the ability of these odors to influence taste perceptions has also been shown to be a function of associative
learning. Odors that initially either had either no impact on sucrose sweetness or actually suppressed sweetness were both found to enhance sweetness
following an exposure phase of repeated pairings with sucrose in solution (Prescott )."

this is a good paper, but this particular quotation is neatly indicative of the appalling circle jerk that is most neuroscience. as a characterisation of learning, i give the content of the above an f. any behavioural response will be driven by a mixture of the priors determined by an individual's specific detectors and learning. and since we usually measure perception by behavioural responses (and, in our own cases, by our subjective experiences), what happens prior to behaviour and experience is interesting but moot. as we normally use the word "smell," it makes little sense to tell me i can smell something if i don't experience it and it doesn't affect me behaviourally.

which means that while this sounds like a useful distinction:

The associations between odor and taste are real, but they are learned, not sensed.

in practice, it is kind of irrelevant. we don't experience what our senses detect. what we call perception is actually a discriminative inference made by our brains based on the mix of priors i described above. the origin of the information in those priors is largely irrelevant to what we experience as perception. what you smell and what you see are inferences made by your brain, they are not veridical reports of what is detected (if that even makes sense -- see borges' story of the 1-1 map of the world).

so, for simple reasons of resource allocation, we do a fair less amount of distorting of visual perception than olfactory or auditory perception, but even in vision, our brain is busy making shit up: the photoreceptors in you eyes detect exactly the same information from both of these horses:

colorhorses-1.jpg
once the photoreceptors have done their job, the brain has to make sense of that information. some of the shit it makes up is based on priors from the detectors and some of that shit is based on priors from learning. does it really help to say that you see the two horses in this context as being the same colour?

and does it really help you to perceive them "veridically" to know they are the same colour?

Perhaps the question to be answered: Is there any reason to make a distinction between the physiological response to acidity (or any sensory stimulus) and the perception of acidity (or any sensory stimulus) as a higher brain function when discussing food and drink? I believe there is. Discussions over actual sweetness (RS) versus perceived sweetness (no RS, seems sweet) would be moot.

there all sort of reasons to make distinctions. like, it really is interesting to know that the two horses are identical in the picture above, even if it doesn't mean that you can "see" them as they really are. for example, we see the horses in this context as different, but if we cut them out and put them on a black background we see them as identical. similarly, a wine that tastes sweet in one context might not do so with food. in this case, knowing about the rs would be useful (in the same way that knowing the colours of the pixels in the above picture is useful).

but the contrast in each case is meaningful in terms of context, not of higher brain function.

which is why i said this shit will soon drive you to drink.

fb.
 
originally posted by fatboy:

nicely put.

and of course, "smell" is an odd verb that is all too easily misunderstood as an analog of "see." points guys aside, it would seem that our brains have evolved solely in order to make megatastings pointless.

Interesting link, my corpulent colleague. I wish that they had done the companion experiment to see how long (or even if) it took the receptors to fully recover from their downregulation. Anecdotally, I have encountered chemists who've worked extensively with sulfur-containing smelly things and whose ability to smell such has attenuated to nothingness. This appears to be a long-term effect.

Mark Lipton
 
originally posted by MLipton:

Anecdotally, I have encountered chemists who've worked extensively with sulfur-containing smelly things and whose ability to smell such has attenuated to nothingness. This appears to be a long-term effect.

Mark Lipton

And so the market for natural gas detectors was born.
 
originally posted by Greg Hirson:
originally posted by MLipton:

Anecdotally, I have encountered chemists who've worked extensively with sulfur-containing smelly things and whose ability to smell such has attenuated to nothingness. This appears to be a long-term effect.

Mark Lipton

And so the market for natural gas detectors was born.

A funny story related to me: back in the '30s in Texas, gas companies hired a number of men to inspect natural gas pipelines for leaks (and fix the leaks once discovered). One man in particular was noted for his uncanny ability to locate leaks much faster than the norm. When asked how he did it, he replied that he just looked for the circling vultures. The birds were attracted to the thiol odorant in the natural gas, mistaking it for the smell of a carcass, so the man would just scan the sky for a flock of vultures circling and drive to that location.

Mark Lipton
 
fb, if someone said that retro-olfaction was bunk because they know what they are feeling, and they are feeling flavors in the mouth, would you respond that "a complex cognitive organ like a brain that has been trained on stimuli detected by multiple correlated sensory inputs can't or won't infer things that it isn't actually detecting from those correlates that are actually being detected" or would you just point to basic literature saying that mouth receptors are incapable of detecting flavors, and that the impression of feeling them in the mouth was just that, an impression? The former? I should have guessed.
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
fb, if someone said that retro-olfaction was bunk because they know what they are feeling, and they are feeling flavors in the mouth, would you respond that "a complex cognitive organ like a brain that has been trained on stimuli detected by multiple correlated sensory inputs can't or won't infer things that it isn't actually detecting from those correlates that are actually being detected" or would you just point to basic literature saying that mouth receptors are incapable of detecting flavors, and that the impression of feeling them in the mouth was just that, an impression? The former? I should have guessed.

i have no idea what retro-olfaction is.

so how can i call it wrong?

fb.
 
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