TN: Trung Visits (Apr 10, 2014)

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
attendees: Trung and his brother Hong, SFJoe, Sharon, Kirk, Jay, Jeff

Trung Nguyen happens to be passing through NYC so we jeeb. We gather at Trestle on Tenth, a geek fave with a great list and great food. Chef Ralf comes out from the kitchen to visit us, taste a little, and then the plates come out: duck necks, tripe, sweetbreads, crepinette, rosti, and lots more of his earthy, soulful cuisine.

Table talk: Trung tells about his visits in the Loire, Sharon tells about her writing assignment from the great beyond, everyone has travel talk, lots of champagne talk... for the right reasons:

Gimonnet NV Champagne Brut "Selection Belles Annees" Blanc de Blancs - disgorged 2011 Dec 14, a great way to start: fruity, chalky, elegant, mid-weight palate, I keep going back for more of this, Kirk's choice off the list

Ulysse-Colin NV Champagne Brut "Les Pierriers" Blanc de Blancs - lot 09fSOL, disgorged 07/03/2013, "Very chardonnay!" exclaims Sharon, it is very wine-y, a warm year and its shows in extra fruitiness, extra fullness, maybe a touch sweet, I get some sour mash fragrances

Vouette et Sorbee 2010 Champagne Brut Rose Blanc de Noirs - disgorged Nov 9 2012, a saignee wine, and a huge wine: big, tannic, intense, red-fruited, so macho we considered serving it with the reds, great

Taittinger 2004 Champagne Brut Rose "Comtes de Champagne" - corked

Ch. Simone 2011 Palette Rose - gorgeous, dry, just barely ripe, flavors of white cherries and pink cotton candy (but not the sugary sweetness), SFJoe's choice off the list

Rollin 2009 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er "Les Vergelesses" - nice enough but I had a hard time finding anything distinctive or interesting about this wine among the rest of the hubbub

Prum 1971 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel - 2576511-1672, the cork broke so we decanted it but the decanter won't fit in the ice bucket so we drink it now: bronze or pale brown color, no diesel, acidity still sound but not sharp, really interesting balance of sweet and savory: it is sweet but not achingly so, and the savory (meat juice, saline) flavors are subtle, you don't taste them very much but they complicate the (stronger) sense of sweetness; a contemplative wine thrust into the middle of dinner

Baudry 2007 Chinon "Croix Boissee" - full-flavored, lots of fine tannins give an almost tingly impression, cooked strawberries and earth, no overt green pepper, beautiful

Clos Rougeard 2003 Saumur-Champigny "Le Bourg" - so suave, with even finer tannins, a bit alcoholic, lots of warm red fruit, pretty wine

Guigal 1998 Cote-Rotie "Chateau d'Ampuis" - a cellar orphan, shows too many signs of craftsmanship: buffed clean and oaked to death, vigorous but hollow, all structure but no blood in its veins

Trung promises to take me to a great Korean dive restaurant next time I'm up his way (...which is about two weeks from now). Yeah!
 
Joe was so gracious in fulfilling my request when I asked him if I can meet him and his wine friends over dinner. It was my great pleasure to meet Joe, Sharon, Kirk, Jay and again Jeff.

It was truly a special treat for me to drink and laugh with people who truly loves and appreciates the simple wine from the Vignerons who dedicate their life to making simple wine that can touches your soul. The 71 Prum is a great soulful wine and thanks to Joe for sharing the treat.

Jeff thanks for the memory of a great evening and looking forward to bringing you to the Korean dive.. Thanks Y'all for your New Yorkers hospitality.
 
Trung,

It was great to meet you at last. Thanks for making the stop in New York to see us.

I hope this is the first of many more posts from you about said vignerons!

J
 
Wonderful to see everyone and to meet Trung. Trestle had excellent food as always though I'd be happier with about half the decibels.

I found the Gimonnet nice but not especially interesting. The Collin was much more my style, rich and complex.

Ditto the Vouette et Sorbee Saigneee Rose, they remain one of my favorite rose producers and this vinous wine is a good example of why.

I replaced the corked bottle of Taittinger yesterday so I'll have another try at it sometime soon I hope.

I liked the Rollin a lot more than you. Its charms were not obvious but if you spend some time paying attention it had a subtle smile of infinite charm and a appealing grace. Rollin continues to be one of my favorite Pernand producers. It has, thankfully, calmed down a lot from its early fruity 2009 exuberance.

The Prum was amazing, perfectly mature, powerful riesling.

The Baudry was great but very, very young. Personally I wouldn't touch for another 10 years but the vlm would probably put it on a wine list or something.

The Clos Rougeard was a real treat. Was there a (warning, vg ahead!) better region in the world than the Loire in 2003?

The Guigal was feh, dnpim.

You unsurprisingly neglected to mention the lovely La Bota #21 Palo Cortado. It was open for about 2 weeks but still showed beautifully. Not, unfortunately, as beautifully the first bottle of this I had but that's quibbling.
 
originally posted by Jay Miller:
Wonderful to see everyone and to meet Trung. Trestle had excellent food as always though I'd be happier with about half the decibels.

David and Arnaud promise that Racines will be a quiet oasis.

I found the Gimonnet nice but not especially interesting. The Collin was much more my style, rich and complex.
Agreed, though I felt a bit bitch-slapped by the U-C.

The Prum was amazing, perfectly mature, powerful riesling.

A very fine bottle.

The Baudry was great but very, very young. Personally I wouldn't touch for another 10 years but the vlm would probably put it on a wine list or something.

Drink and hold.

The Clos Rougeard was a real treat. Was there a (warning, vg ahead!) better region in the world than the Loire in 2003?
Yes.

You unsurprisingly neglected to mention the lovely La Bota #21. It was open for about 2 weeks but still showed beautifully.
Amazing stuff.
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
originally posted by Jay Miller:
Wonderful to see everyone and to meet Trung. Trestle had excellent food as always though I'd be happier with about half the decibels.

David and Arnaud promise that Racines will be a quiet oasis.

You misunderstood. They were referring to uniformity of opinion.
 
originally posted by Jay Miller:
The Baudry was great but very, very young. Personally I wouldn't touch for another 10 years but the vlm would probably put it on a wine list or something.

Indeed. I thought it was drinking nicely, 2008 as well.

The Clos Rougeard was a real treat. Was there a (warning, vg ahead!) better region in the world than the Loire in 2003?

Or 2004 for that matter. 2003 Baudry Grézeaux from magnum was fantastic last night.
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
originally posted by Jay Miller:
Wonderful to see everyone and to meet Trung. Trestle had excellent food as always though I'd be happier with about half the decibels.

David and Arnaud promise that Racines will be a quiet oasis.

Two days to go.
 
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