Dinner at Racines

originally posted by lars makie:
If this bottle is any indication, it's still got a lot of life to it. Arno suggested a decant, but I decided against it because it was just going to be me and I'd have a long time with it. It def could've used it. The first half hour or so was pretty primary but by hour two it was just a thing of beauty; deep, dark, dusty. Just kept going.

Yes, I had a bottle of this also at Racines last week, and it was decanted at the start and just kept blossoming.

Lovely stuff.
 
originally posted by scottreiner:
originally posted by SFJoe:
And thank you Lars for the taste!

do you eat anywhere else now?
Well, Racines is mighty handy, but I had a wonderful meal a few days ago at Fung Tu. And I have reservations coming up at Rouge Tomate and Pearl&Ash. So it is pretty much the usual suspects.
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
originally posted by scottreiner:
originally posted by SFJoe:
And thank you Lars for the taste!

do you eat anywhere else now?
Well, Racines is mighty handy, but I had a wonderful meal a few days ago at Fung Tu. And I have reservations coming up at Rouge Tomate and Pearl&Ash. So it is pretty much the usual suspects.

Do you cook anymore?
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
Lots of work events, not just the social whirl.

But thanks for the interest, everyone!

Well, if you find that time doesn't permit your consumption of recently harvested Morchella, feel free to pass them on to me.

Ever helpful,
Mark Lipton
 
originally posted by lars makie:
originally posted by Jay Miller:
originally posted by lars makie:
originally posted by kirk wallace:
originally posted by lars makie:
Sitting here right now.Starting to nurse a bottle of the 12 Beaujolais Villages from Metras. Deciding what dish to tuck into.

Lars, I hope you got the farro and the pork. Primo quality.

Thanks for the heads up. Just opened a bottle of the 05 CRB Cot. Think it'll go well with it.

How is the '05 doing? As I recall that was a blend of the old and young vines so I'm not sure of how its aging curve will work.

If this bottle is any indication, it's still got a lot of life to it. Arno suggested a decant, but I decided against it because it was just going to be me and I'd have a long time with it. It def could've used it. The first half hour or so was pretty primary but by hour two it was just a thing of beauty; deep, dark, dusty. Just kept going.

And it did go really well with the farro and mushroom dish.

ETA: What Joe just said.

Yep, very good. Had been decanted for an hour by the time I got to it. Gorgeous aromatics, entrance, texture; where it still has resolution to perform is in the finish, but plenty of length to enjoy. Don't try it with the halibut though.
Jay, the Pinon Moelleux by the glass is pure and electric indeed, and Gonon Chasselas fails to hide old vine intensity (perhaps it's not trying to?) and fascinates with an herbal/floral/root vegetable/hard mineral finish that steps into gruner territory - not when comparing the wines of course, but when entertaining food possibilities.
 
After sharing a pleasant bottle of Cave de Tain 2005 Cornas with a friend in midtown, I joined the fray at the front tables of Racines. Already there were Jay + Arnold, Sharon, Nathania, Oswaldo + Marcia + André. Later, Kirk arrived and kicked off a second round of de-bottling.

On arrival I tasted the remains of the dinner bottles: a friendly, charming, lightweight, carbonic Sébastien David 2011 St Nicolas de Bourgueil "Kezako" followed by a glass of the excellent Dom. Pepieres 2004 Muscadet "Clos des Briords". I joined the ensemble for dessert (something with pistachios and raspberries) and consumed it with a really delightful hipster Dom. l'Anglore 2011 Tavel "Cuvée Barricade".

When Jay wasn't looking we ordered two pineau d'aunis wines, Dom. Bellivieres 2012 "Rouge Gorge" and Puzelat year? "La Tesniere". Sharon smelled sulfur on the Bellivieres, though it did not show on the palate. We eventually dragged Eben Lillie into the discussion and, well, we're a little mystified. Eric Nicolas is, by all accounts, not averse to using a bit of sulfur but none of us could remember any of his previous wines showing like this. Perhaps it's some weird side-effect of the dismal 2012 growing season? Anyway, the Belliviere was definitely more tense, dark black-fruited, minerally, and dry than the relatively floral (almost candied) Puzelat.

Kirk, as you know, has the same effect on a room as Lawrence Welk. The Pierre Peters ? Brut Rose was precise, balanced, just-so ripe, great wine. The Chartogne ? Brut Rose was much tighter and rather unyielding.

As the bar closed down we got pours off a bottle of Kramp 1989 ?. The wine had very pronounced acidity and lemony zing. The flavor profile includes a whiff of petrol but not too much additional complexity.

...ready to edit when more details about the wines arises...
 
The Bourgueil was a 2011 Sébastien David Kezako St Nicolas de Bourgueil 12.0%, a juicy yet structured rendition where the carbonic takes place in barrels. There are pictures and a description of this interesting domaine in my Loire trip ribald report (would have written ribald Loire trip report, which flows much better, but might have drawn a reprimand) accessible via search function. The Pepière was a Briords, and it was pitch perfect as well as having perfect pitch. The hipster Tavel was from Eric Pifferling's Domaine L'Anglore, provider of carbonic elixirs from the south, totally delicious, with lottsa carbonic overtones. Sorry I missed the Bellivière and Puzelat. The Tesnière is 100% pinot, and is usually terrific with a bit of age. Sorry most of all that we missed Kirk! And the tyke's name is Andre (aka André).

ps: Racines is indeed the sheet. With Arnaud and Eben around, great food, terrific wine list, and friends appearing out of nowhere, it could be the set for a new version of Cheers, featuring the regulars on this bored.
 
Thank you, Oswaldo, for the details. Original post has been greatly improved.

And it was delightful to see the whole Costa Clan again.
 
The 04 briords remains my greatest regret of a wine I didn't lay down (since I had bought so much '02).

The food and service at Racines remains better than any place with such a great wine list has a right to be.
 
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