kirk wallace
kirk wallace
Gene Vilensky had the great idea of getting some Wachau wine lovers together to pair wines from great producers and great sites in a recent vintage and one or more older vintages. And thanks to some very generous digging in people's cellars and Gene's mathematical and geometry-inclined mind, we ended up with the following pairs:
Prager Bodenstein Riesling: 01 & 11
The '01 is a consistent favorite and this bottle was no exception. Stunning balance and precision; fragrant and light on its feet, with great length and persistence.
The '11 was seeringly acidic at first, but after 30 minutes, it softened a touch. there was a recognizable similarity between these two wines.
Alzinger Loibenerbg Riesling: 90, 97, 12
The '90 was a bit oxidized; hard to enjoy given its company.
The '97 was stunning; beautiful in all respects. amazing density of flavor but, as is typical for Alzinger, totally light in the mouth. Many votes for WOTN.
The '12 was excellent, until later that evening, I would say i have never had a young wine from a Wachau producer that was this compelling and drinkable. It was delicious from moment 1 and improved over the course of the evening.
FXP Kellerberg Riesling 93 , 95, 11
The '11 was almost undrinkable for me: all acidity and extract; dense and unyielding. a great wine in 10 years, i suspect.
the '95 was very good but a bit heavy; probably some botrytis. i didn't spend much time with this wine because:
The '93 was amazing; complete in all respects and deeply satisfying and happy-making. At the moment, i can't recall having had a better FXP Kellerberg.
Alzinger Steinertal GV: 99 , 11
the '99 was good but seemed a bit over-ripe; of course still relatively precise, in the Alzinger style.
the '11 was utterly arresting; i was shocked that a Wachau wine at this age could be this complex and this delicious. This and '12 Loibenberg will have to make me re-think my drinking patterns, at least with Alzinger.
Hirtzberger Honivogl GV: 71, 97, 11 & FXP GV “M” 94
The '71 unfortunately had been affected by mold sneaking down the edge of the bottle by a slightly shrunken cork; it was not undrinkable, but very hard to get past the mold taint.
the '97 made up for it; great GV flavor; stood up to some spicy dumpling knots with ground pork. a beautiful wine that doesn't seem at any risk of fading.
The '11 shows great promise but was too young and tight for me (and i was slowing down, given the 9 wines that preceded it .
The '94 FXP GV "M" was gorgeous; not hot or heavy at all, as some modern M's have been. Unfortunately my only bottle. If you see this available (from a good cellar), I'd say grab it.
And with that, we let the restaurant staff go home.
Prager Bodenstein Riesling: 01 & 11
The '01 is a consistent favorite and this bottle was no exception. Stunning balance and precision; fragrant and light on its feet, with great length and persistence.
The '11 was seeringly acidic at first, but after 30 minutes, it softened a touch. there was a recognizable similarity between these two wines.
Alzinger Loibenerbg Riesling: 90, 97, 12
The '90 was a bit oxidized; hard to enjoy given its company.
The '97 was stunning; beautiful in all respects. amazing density of flavor but, as is typical for Alzinger, totally light in the mouth. Many votes for WOTN.
The '12 was excellent, until later that evening, I would say i have never had a young wine from a Wachau producer that was this compelling and drinkable. It was delicious from moment 1 and improved over the course of the evening.
FXP Kellerberg Riesling 93 , 95, 11
The '11 was almost undrinkable for me: all acidity and extract; dense and unyielding. a great wine in 10 years, i suspect.
the '95 was very good but a bit heavy; probably some botrytis. i didn't spend much time with this wine because:
The '93 was amazing; complete in all respects and deeply satisfying and happy-making. At the moment, i can't recall having had a better FXP Kellerberg.
Alzinger Steinertal GV: 99 , 11
the '99 was good but seemed a bit over-ripe; of course still relatively precise, in the Alzinger style.
the '11 was utterly arresting; i was shocked that a Wachau wine at this age could be this complex and this delicious. This and '12 Loibenberg will have to make me re-think my drinking patterns, at least with Alzinger.
Hirtzberger Honivogl GV: 71, 97, 11 & FXP GV “M” 94
The '71 unfortunately had been affected by mold sneaking down the edge of the bottle by a slightly shrunken cork; it was not undrinkable, but very hard to get past the mold taint.
the '97 made up for it; great GV flavor; stood up to some spicy dumpling knots with ground pork. a beautiful wine that doesn't seem at any risk of fading.
The '11 shows great promise but was too young and tight for me (and i was slowing down, given the 9 wines that preceded it .
The '94 FXP GV "M" was gorgeous; not hot or heavy at all, as some modern M's have been. Unfortunately my only bottle. If you see this available (from a good cellar), I'd say grab it.
And with that, we let the restaurant staff go home.