Jeff Grossman
Jeff Grossman
Chambers in-store tasting this past Saturday: four wines brought in by DavidMike Foulk, who happens to be pouring:
Bow and Arrow 2013 Melon de Bourgogne, Johan Vineyard - varietally correct, unmistakeable, but lacks minerality today
Rainer Christ 2013 Gemischter Satz - Mike doesn't know exactly what's in here but it's probably a mix of gruner/roter veltliner, pinot blanc/gris, etc.; grown together, fermented together; I like this batch a lot, good acidity, a pale green streak of flavor that hints at sauvignon blanc (ironically, a grape that is unlikely to be in here); good price point, too
Vinos Ambiz 2013 Albillo "Amphora" - here's a rare enough grape but, alas, it's totally obscured by the flavors of the vessel
Nicolas Gonin 2013 Mondeuse "Balmes Dauphinoises" - Mike knows a lot of back-story on this one and fr.Wikipedia provides some more.
Balmes Dauphinoises was a regional name for certain vins de pays made in parts of Isere (a department between the Rhone River and Switzerland). The name was phased out in 2011 as a standalone designation but now may be appended to the IGP "Isere" under certain conditions.
Gonin's father did little with his vineyards but Nicolas has a great interest in making wine and in saving local heritage grape varieties. This Mondeuse has not been available previously because, in order to comply with the law, Gonin blended his mondeuse with persan (of which he owns 1 hectare, approximately 1/10th of the global supply). He also grows altesse, jacquere, mecle and a few common grapes.
The new law looks a lot like his cepage list. Maybe he knows somebody?
Anyway, this wine is dark and crisp and lean. It reminds a little of irises and black pepper. It's not rich or viscous, but it is minerally and refreshing.
Bow and Arrow 2013 Melon de Bourgogne, Johan Vineyard - varietally correct, unmistakeable, but lacks minerality today
Rainer Christ 2013 Gemischter Satz - Mike doesn't know exactly what's in here but it's probably a mix of gruner/roter veltliner, pinot blanc/gris, etc.; grown together, fermented together; I like this batch a lot, good acidity, a pale green streak of flavor that hints at sauvignon blanc (ironically, a grape that is unlikely to be in here); good price point, too
Vinos Ambiz 2013 Albillo "Amphora" - here's a rare enough grape but, alas, it's totally obscured by the flavors of the vessel
Nicolas Gonin 2013 Mondeuse "Balmes Dauphinoises" - Mike knows a lot of back-story on this one and fr.Wikipedia provides some more.
Balmes Dauphinoises was a regional name for certain vins de pays made in parts of Isere (a department between the Rhone River and Switzerland). The name was phased out in 2011 as a standalone designation but now may be appended to the IGP "Isere" under certain conditions.
Gonin's father did little with his vineyards but Nicolas has a great interest in making wine and in saving local heritage grape varieties. This Mondeuse has not been available previously because, in order to comply with the law, Gonin blended his mondeuse with persan (of which he owns 1 hectare, approximately 1/10th of the global supply). He also grows altesse, jacquere, mecle and a few common grapes.
The new law looks a lot like his cepage list. Maybe he knows somebody?
Anyway, this wine is dark and crisp and lean. It reminds a little of irises and black pepper. It's not rich or viscous, but it is minerally and refreshing.