Jeff Grossman
Jeff Grossman
attendees: Eden + Scott, Don + Melissa, Suzanne + Kenny, Jay, Brad, Jeff
A spectacular food and wine jeebus occurred at Eden and Scott's (and Pierce's) house. Rather than the time-tested potluck style, Eden has announced that she will do all the cooking and the guests will provide all the libations.
For a modest bribe the folks at NJ Transit take us there. We work on corks while Eden fusses with sheet-pans. When Jay discovers Pierce's plush macarons it is all we can do to pry them from his grip.
Eventually, we settle down and the feasting starts. The table is already set with platters of:
- Pumpkin Seed Flatbread
- Crispy Parsnip Curls
- Gougeres
- Baguette with Anchovy/Chickpea spread
It's hard to know what to eat first as the umami, cheese, crunch, and toast flavors all vie for our attention. And we drink:
Vouette et Sorbet Champagne Extra-Brut "Fidele" - 23-1-12/R09, crisp, chalky, lemony, not at all leesy, a little ungiving today but still good
Joly 1996 Clos de la Coulee Serrant - fresh, light, youthful
Ch. du Hureau 1996 Saumur Blanc - extremely fresh, sound acidity, tame on the palate at first but opens up (apricot?) with air
Ch. d'Epire 1996 Savennieres "Cuvee Speciale" - showing some oxidation but it has that unmistakeable resin/pine aroma
Dom du Collier 2002 Saumur Blanc - oxidized
Around this time, Eden begins sending wave after wave of
- Tartelettes Alsacienne (oignons et lardons)
to the table. Light, crisp, sensuous, and occasionally smoky, these provoke a technical discussion on how to keep such things crisp even when dotted with moist ingredients. Pierce and I are having a grand time playing with the multi-colored plastic eggs, but I see Jay covertly stroking the velveteen peaches.
And we drink:
Pepe 1995 Trebbiano d'Abruzzo - bottle 16365, hm, I still don't get Pepe
Rollin 2010 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er "Iles des Vergelesses" - this was gorgeous on the previous evening, just Jay and I in the cellar (oh, right, this is the rest of that bottle)
Coulaine 2005 Chinon Rouge "Le Clos de Turpenay" - a green but well-tailored suit, nice balance, a David Lillie recommendation
Eden finally joins us at the table, bringing the entree with her:
- Porchetta roasted on a bed of celery root, brussels sprouts, and new potatoes
This has been cooking for many hours and the skin has formed a magnificent crust. The sturdy vegetables have both soaked up and stood up to their long, hot, fatty bath. I think there were no leftovers of this one.
And we drink:
Voge 2005 Cornas "Les Vieilles Vignes" - all my note says is "Perfect."
Bod. Franco-Espanola 1978 Rioja GR "Bordon" - a bit soft, rich texture (is that just viscosity or is it the fine particulate?), very Rioja flavors, but a little tired (Suzanne finds some broth and tomato)
Mt. Eden Vineyards 2002 Pinot Noir, Santa Cruz Mountains - bottle 6363, tangy strawberry goodness, excellent with the roasted celery root
Jean-Louis Dutraive 2010 Fleurie "Cuvee Vieille Vignes" - good, I suppose, but I'm having trouble taking notes on this one
We all do some cleanup, including the ugly job of retrieving Pierce's felt ravioli from the dark recesses of Jay's wine bag. Then, after four starters, an appetizer and a main, Eden brings out four desserts:
- Chocolate-Ginger cookies
- Chocolate-covered corn flakes
- Madelaines
- Raspberry-Pecan oatmeal bars
The texture of the madelaines is perfect. Eden did not use lavender honey but I have not written down which kind she did use. Perhaps Don Rice will donate a bolus of Francois Pinon's wildflower honey for the next batch?
[All together now:] And we drink:
Rene Renou 2002 Bonnezeaux "Cuvee Zenith" - generous, sweet and golden, a bit skimpy on the finish but who's complaining?
Jacques Laverriere 1998 Banyuls "Clos Chatart" - quite chocolatey and mellow, no detectable VA (for those who follow very old in-jokes)
Amaro Braulio - perhaps a bit more sweetness than other amari but, never mind that, this thing is full of flowers and florals and ferns and even un pochissimo of citrus, excellent
Then, suddenly, as if a train schedule was consulted, the dinner is over. We pile into the various four-wheel conveyances and head homeward. I'm certain all the trips home were uneventful. I know I enjoyed the sunset tour of Staten Island.
Innumerable and uncountable thanks to Eden and Scott (and Pierce) for the wonderful Sunday dinner with the family.
Pictures
A spectacular food and wine jeebus occurred at Eden and Scott's (and Pierce's) house. Rather than the time-tested potluck style, Eden has announced that she will do all the cooking and the guests will provide all the libations.
For a modest bribe the folks at NJ Transit take us there. We work on corks while Eden fusses with sheet-pans. When Jay discovers Pierce's plush macarons it is all we can do to pry them from his grip.
Eventually, we settle down and the feasting starts. The table is already set with platters of:
- Pumpkin Seed Flatbread
- Crispy Parsnip Curls
- Gougeres
- Baguette with Anchovy/Chickpea spread
It's hard to know what to eat first as the umami, cheese, crunch, and toast flavors all vie for our attention. And we drink:
Vouette et Sorbet Champagne Extra-Brut "Fidele" - 23-1-12/R09, crisp, chalky, lemony, not at all leesy, a little ungiving today but still good
Joly 1996 Clos de la Coulee Serrant - fresh, light, youthful
Ch. du Hureau 1996 Saumur Blanc - extremely fresh, sound acidity, tame on the palate at first but opens up (apricot?) with air
Ch. d'Epire 1996 Savennieres "Cuvee Speciale" - showing some oxidation but it has that unmistakeable resin/pine aroma
Dom du Collier 2002 Saumur Blanc - oxidized
Around this time, Eden begins sending wave after wave of
- Tartelettes Alsacienne (oignons et lardons)
to the table. Light, crisp, sensuous, and occasionally smoky, these provoke a technical discussion on how to keep such things crisp even when dotted with moist ingredients. Pierce and I are having a grand time playing with the multi-colored plastic eggs, but I see Jay covertly stroking the velveteen peaches.
And we drink:
Pepe 1995 Trebbiano d'Abruzzo - bottle 16365, hm, I still don't get Pepe
Rollin 2010 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er "Iles des Vergelesses" - this was gorgeous on the previous evening, just Jay and I in the cellar (oh, right, this is the rest of that bottle)
Coulaine 2005 Chinon Rouge "Le Clos de Turpenay" - a green but well-tailored suit, nice balance, a David Lillie recommendation
Eden finally joins us at the table, bringing the entree with her:
- Porchetta roasted on a bed of celery root, brussels sprouts, and new potatoes
This has been cooking for many hours and the skin has formed a magnificent crust. The sturdy vegetables have both soaked up and stood up to their long, hot, fatty bath. I think there were no leftovers of this one.
And we drink:
Voge 2005 Cornas "Les Vieilles Vignes" - all my note says is "Perfect."
Bod. Franco-Espanola 1978 Rioja GR "Bordon" - a bit soft, rich texture (is that just viscosity or is it the fine particulate?), very Rioja flavors, but a little tired (Suzanne finds some broth and tomato)
Mt. Eden Vineyards 2002 Pinot Noir, Santa Cruz Mountains - bottle 6363, tangy strawberry goodness, excellent with the roasted celery root
Jean-Louis Dutraive 2010 Fleurie "Cuvee Vieille Vignes" - good, I suppose, but I'm having trouble taking notes on this one
We all do some cleanup, including the ugly job of retrieving Pierce's felt ravioli from the dark recesses of Jay's wine bag. Then, after four starters, an appetizer and a main, Eden brings out four desserts:
- Chocolate-Ginger cookies
- Chocolate-covered corn flakes
- Madelaines
- Raspberry-Pecan oatmeal bars
The texture of the madelaines is perfect. Eden did not use lavender honey but I have not written down which kind she did use. Perhaps Don Rice will donate a bolus of Francois Pinon's wildflower honey for the next batch?
[All together now:] And we drink:
Rene Renou 2002 Bonnezeaux "Cuvee Zenith" - generous, sweet and golden, a bit skimpy on the finish but who's complaining?
Jacques Laverriere 1998 Banyuls "Clos Chatart" - quite chocolatey and mellow, no detectable VA (for those who follow very old in-jokes)
Amaro Braulio - perhaps a bit more sweetness than other amari but, never mind that, this thing is full of flowers and florals and ferns and even un pochissimo of citrus, excellent
Then, suddenly, as if a train schedule was consulted, the dinner is over. We pile into the various four-wheel conveyances and head homeward. I'm certain all the trips home were uneventful. I know I enjoyed the sunset tour of Staten Island.
Innumerable and uncountable thanks to Eden and Scott (and Pierce) for the wonderful Sunday dinner with the family.
Pictures
