Weingut Keller Rieslings?

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Peter Creasey

Peter Creasey
Another focus on Riesling as the holidays loom ahead! Burnishing whatever Riesling knowledge I may have, I found John Gilman's comprehensive thesis on Weingut Keller...

Weingut Keller and its inspired head, Klaus-Peter Keller, are amongst the very finest estates in all of Germany. Here in the Hügelland, Klaus-Peter is already widely recognized for producing the finest dry rieslings in the country, and which to my palate offer up a combination of purity, intensity and transparency that finds little rival the world over outside of Maison Trimbach in Ribeauvillé.
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Weingut Keller Renaissance in the Rheinhessen

Maybe a bit dated, but, nevertheless, pretty persuasive!

Any thoughts on this thesis? And any thoughts on the Von der Fels Riesling bottlings?

. . . . Pete
 
The GG's are usually impressive, sometimes more impressive than enjoyable, and always too expensive. The Von der Fels is priced better but I never noticed any family resemblance with the GG's, it's just a solid dry riesling. I'd sooner pick up a Kirschspiel if you want to get a taste of what the producer is about.
 
Keller Riesling is widely available in Bavaria and nearby Swabia. I'm quite fond of the Von der Fels but have generally steered clear of GG because of pricing (with a wife who's none too keen on Riesling even when it's dry, it's to justify GG-level prices)

Mark Lipton
 
originally posted by MLipton: wife who's none too keen on Riesling
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Mark, that seems surprising (and a bit sad).

JoAnne loves Rieslings. We had the Jos Jos Prum Bernkasteler Badstube Spatlese Riesling '07 tonight with tuna fish casserole. It worked well.

. . . . Pete
 
originally posted by Keith Levenberg:
The GG's are usually impressive, sometimes more impressive than enjoyable, and always too expensive. The Von der Fels is priced better but I never noticed any family resemblance with the GG's, it's just a solid dry riesling. I'd sooner pick up a Kirschspiel if you want to get a taste of what the producer is about.
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Have to agree on this for the most part. I bought a case of Von der Fels early on because of the good price and good reviews, but yes, I would say it is a more nearly ordinary Riesling. I don't find myself revisiting these bottles very often.

The Grosses Gewachs are another story, much firmer, sculpted, with a powerful mid-palate that seems to be one of the signatures here (impactful, as we say in the Science business now). I guess my personal favorite is the Hubacker (hauled all the way back to Prague from California to drink on a balcony overlooking the Old City, the ghost of Frans Kafka moving through the streets below). They need some time to be thoroughly enjoyable, however...
 
The wines are impressive, but more importantly, they're actually fun to drink with food. I really like them, and think the prices are fair.
 
originally posted by Carl Steefel:

Have to agree on this for the most part. I bought a case of Von der Fels early on because of the good price and good reviews, but yes, I would say it is a more nearly ordinary Riesling. I don't find myself revisiting these bottles very often.
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which vintage did you buy?
 
originally posted by .sasha:
originally posted by Carl Steefel:

Have to agree on this for the most part. I bought a case of Von der Fels early on because of the good price and good reviews, but yes, I would say it is a more nearly ordinary Riesling. I don't find myself revisiting these bottles very often.
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which vintage did you buy?
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That was the 2008. I bought some of the GG 2009 as well, but then quit buying for the reason mentioned above, namely the rise in price. Could not convince myself to buy any of the later Von der Fels...
 
The 2013 Von der Fels is great. Tasted it at the winery and recently stateside.

As for Keller overall Klaus-Peter he is making outstanding wines. Yes I know they are expensive but a few recent older G-Maxs demonstrated to me how great the wines are on a relative basis to other similarly priced wines. The Absterde and GGs are not that far off in quality to the culty G-Max and obtainable.

He also makes great inexpensive wines including an awesome Scheurube and Sylvaner. Sadly the Scheurube does not make it to the US. Klaus-Peter must have thought I was crazy when I kept asking him about his Scheurube while he was pouring the GGs and some older G-Max.
 
Robert, I am actually nuts about his Pinot Noir - pure, no bullshit, no prisoners wines. I just wish they were 1/3 the price, and I've told KP that :-)
 
originally posted by .sasha:
Robert, I am actually nuts about his Pinot Noir - pure, no bullshit, no prisoners wines. I just wish they were 1/3 the price, and I've told KP that :-)
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I need to try the recent vintages. I was not crazy about the earlier ones and the pricing made it an easy decision.

Any recommendation on one to try that is available in the US?
 
originally posted by Carl Steefel:
originally posted by .sasha:
originally posted by Carl Steefel:

Have to agree on this for the most part. I bought a case of Von der Fels early on because of the good price and good reviews, but yes, I would say it is a more nearly ordinary Riesling. I don't find myself revisiting these bottles very often.
Click to expand...

which vintage did you buy?
Click to expand...
That was the 2008. I bought some of the GG 2009 as well, but then quit buying for the reason mentioned above, namely the rise in price. Could not convince myself to buy any of the later Von der Fels...
Click to expand...

With the disclaimer that while I've loved every new VdF at the winery but have eventually found them (as have you) somewhat less interesting at the dinner table (the 2012 may have presented the biggest discrepancy so far), I am with Robert in suggesting that you at least try a bottle of the 2013. It is different.

Then again, the 2004 was kind of a shocker at a blind tasting in March.

But this in no way suggests that it's a substitute for the GGs, so Keith is correct.

And, what, no love for Hipping or Pettenthal Kabinett?
 
originally posted by Robert Dentice:
originally posted by .sasha:
Robert, I am actually nuts about his Pinot Noir - pure, no bullshit, no prisoners wines. I just wish they were 1/3 the price, and I've told KP that :-)
Click to expand...

I need to try the recent vintages. I was not crazy about the earlier ones and the pricing made it an easy decision.

Any recommendation on one to try that is available in the US?
Click to expand...

not at the current prices!

not when you can buy three bottles of guy bussiere, easy decision, as you say :-)
 
originally posted by .sasha:
originally posted by Carl Steefel:
originally posted by .sasha:
originally posted by Carl Steefel:

Have to agree on this for the most part. I bought a case of Von der Fels early on because of the good price and good reviews, but yes, I would say it is a more nearly ordinary Riesling. I don't find myself revisiting these bottles very often.
Click to expand...

which vintage did you buy?
Click to expand...
That was the 2008. I bought some of the GG 2009 as well, but then quit buying for the reason mentioned above, namely the rise in price. Could not convince myself to buy any of the later Von der Fels...
Click to expand...

With the disclaimer that while I've loved every new VdF at the winery but have eventually found them (as have you) somewhat less interesting at the dinner table (the 2012 may have presented the biggest discrepancy so far), I am with Robert in suggesting that you at least try a bottle of the 2013. It is different.

Then again, the 2004 was kind of a shocker at a blind tasting in March.

But this in no way suggests that it's a substitute for the GGs, so Keith is correct.

And, what, no love for Hipping or Pettenthal Kabinett?
Click to expand...

Agree with Keith that the vdf is no sub for GGs. Also agree that the GGs can be more impressive than enjoyable.

To answer your question: I thought the 2012 Hipping Kabinett- H was sensational a little while back.
 
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