Mike Evans
Mike Evans
No work, all play makes Jules a dull boy, so Jules Dressner took a break from his vacation to pour some wines from the LDM portfolio at an in-store tasting at Le Caveau in Chamblee. As has become a tradition, I pulled my amateur schnook hat on and pulled some older vintages of some current releases for both the joy of sharing them and to give my fellow customers a sense of how the wines can evolve. Jules mentioned his appreciation for white Burgundy the night before, so I also threw in an older one from a different importer as a bonus for him.
New Releases
NV Tarlant Champagne Zero Brut Nature - A little lean for my taste, but I like a little flab in my Champagne.
2012 Domaine du Moulin (Hervé Villemade) Cour-Cheverny Les Acacias - Crisp, clean and floral, pretty nice now but should be better in a couple of years.
2013 Clos du Tue-Boeuf Touraine La Guerrerie - A little spice and mouthwatering bramble fruit, lots of acid that primes the palate for the next sip.
2013 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Les Granges - Earthy, leathery fruit and still a little tight, with ample tannin and acid, it cries out for food at this point.
2012 Dard et Ribo Crozes-Hermitage "C'est le Printemps" - Loaded with smoked meat and pepper, just terrific. A second bottle was a little mousy, which was disappointing.
2012 Éric Texier Rouletabulle - A lovely petillant naturel. Essence of white peach + a little RS = dangerously easy to consume in large quantities.
Older Stuff
1998 Thomas-Labaille Sancerre Chavignol Cuvee Buster Les Monts Damnés - The peppermint aromas I often find in older Thomas-Labaille Busters, with a little honey and flowers. The age has brought a nice nuttiness on the palate with good fruit. It is in a terrific place right now.
1997 Domaine de la Bongran (Thevenet) M“con Clessé Cuvée Tradition Sélection E.J. Thévenet - Terrific aged white Burgundy hazelnut, rich, layered, at peak but with no danger of decline, it is ridiculously good right now and puts most white Burgs from more prestigious appellations to shame. A little RS pops its head out with air as it just gets better
1996 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Meix Chavaux - Nutty, mineral, crisp and delicious. It could still use some time.
1998 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette Cuvée Tardive - Screaming brett beyond even my high tolerance.
2002 Domaine des Terres Dorées (Jean-Paul Brun) Beaujolais Cuvée l'Ancien Vieilles Vignes - Still alive and kicking despite the synthetic cork. Cranberry and leather, with vibrant acidity, a tasty treat.
1999 Mas des Chimères Coteaux du Languedoc - Still very youthful and primary, with a fair bit of tannin, but delicious nonetheless.
New Releases
NV Tarlant Champagne Zero Brut Nature - A little lean for my taste, but I like a little flab in my Champagne.
2012 Domaine du Moulin (Hervé Villemade) Cour-Cheverny Les Acacias - Crisp, clean and floral, pretty nice now but should be better in a couple of years.
2013 Clos du Tue-Boeuf Touraine La Guerrerie - A little spice and mouthwatering bramble fruit, lots of acid that primes the palate for the next sip.
2013 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Les Granges - Earthy, leathery fruit and still a little tight, with ample tannin and acid, it cries out for food at this point.
2012 Dard et Ribo Crozes-Hermitage "C'est le Printemps" - Loaded with smoked meat and pepper, just terrific. A second bottle was a little mousy, which was disappointing.
2012 Éric Texier Rouletabulle - A lovely petillant naturel. Essence of white peach + a little RS = dangerously easy to consume in large quantities.
Older Stuff
1998 Thomas-Labaille Sancerre Chavignol Cuvee Buster Les Monts Damnés - The peppermint aromas I often find in older Thomas-Labaille Busters, with a little honey and flowers. The age has brought a nice nuttiness on the palate with good fruit. It is in a terrific place right now.
1997 Domaine de la Bongran (Thevenet) M“con Clessé Cuvée Tradition Sélection E.J. Thévenet - Terrific aged white Burgundy hazelnut, rich, layered, at peak but with no danger of decline, it is ridiculously good right now and puts most white Burgs from more prestigious appellations to shame. A little RS pops its head out with air as it just gets better
1996 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Meix Chavaux - Nutty, mineral, crisp and delicious. It could still use some time.
1998 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette Cuvée Tardive - Screaming brett beyond even my high tolerance.
2002 Domaine des Terres Dorées (Jean-Paul Brun) Beaujolais Cuvée l'Ancien Vieilles Vignes - Still alive and kicking despite the synthetic cork. Cranberry and leather, with vibrant acidity, a tasty treat.
1999 Mas des Chimères Coteaux du Languedoc - Still very youthful and primary, with a fair bit of tannin, but delicious nonetheless.
