TN: Grand Sichuan, ever and ever (Feb 5, 2015)

J

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
attendees: Salil, Dale, Jay, Todd, Alex, Jeff

Salil has rustled up some locals to meet/greet with two visitors, Alex of New Jersey and Todd of Arizona. Todd was just doing a little warm-up drinking before he hit the Festa di Barolo. (There was supposed to be a third visitor, Mikhail, but he had to cancel.)

Grand Sichuan was its usual cheerful self and served the usual cheerful cucumber with scallion, tea-smoked duck, and gui zhou chicken (to name a few).

Dom. Truchot 2004 Charmes-Chambertin GC VV - Reds first, you know. Rich, round, and full. Nice mineral note. Jay found a "very slight piney-ness" but, overall, we heaped praise upon Maureen's advice to buy these.

Courtois 2010 Romorantin "Les Cailloux du Paradis" - recognizably romorantin but seems a little skimpy on both flavor and acid; eh

Willi Schaefer 2010 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese - 09 11, gorgeous, fragrant, wonderful body and balance ...E

Schloss Johannisberger 1976 Grunlack Riesling Spatlese - 26026 006 77, 700 ml bottle, another beautiful wine with silky texture, white cherries and pit fruit, seems young

Knoll 1998 "Loibner" Gruner Veltliner Federspiel - trocken, I think it's watery but everybody else likes it

Aigner 2013 Gruner Veltliner "Sandgrube" - bright and sharp, even a little spritz, recognizably g.v., this was better on Day 4; an OK cheapie

O. Raffault 1985 Chinon "Les Picasses" - ooh, really good with the soup dumplings, intense and vigorous, the green pepper is sturdy but polite; the dregs of this were shot by Day 4 and possible showing the tiniest bit of cork taint

Dr. Loosen 2013 "Blue Slate" Riesling Kabinett - 16 14, another cheapie, crisp, not particularly exciting; website says it is multi-site but all blue slate soils (hence the name); this was more interesting on Day 4; my first '13 riesling

Zilliken 1985 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Spatlese Auction #8 - corked

Merkelbach 2002 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese - 02203, gentle acidity, my notes are illegible otherwise

Egon Muller/Le Gallais 2003 Wiltinger Braune Kupp Riesling Auslese Auction - 3 567 142 24 04, OMG wine, showing not just sugar but a honeyed flavor

Willi Schaefer 1995 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Beerenauslese Auction - 1396, more fireworks, beautiful balance, white raisins and orange blossoms
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:

Merkelbach 2002 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese - 02203, gentle acidity, my notes are illegible otherwise
Click to expand...

Did Skurnick just re-release this wine? It is on the list at both LOS and Chada in Las Vegas. so i had it twice in the past 3 days. It is an elegant whisp of a spatlese. But oh so beautiful. more rain water than anything, but there is this tiny essence of Erdener Treppchen suffusing it. and if you manage to leave a glass alone for an hour, it gets deeper and stronger. still a very delicate wine. but fun to see again. ($45 on the list at Chada, in case any one will be out that way .... 90 i think at LOS).
 
Where I have dissenting opinions

Courtois 2010 Romorantin "Les Cailloux du Paradis"
I liked the Romarantin more than most, finding an attractive spice cake note, but it wasn't a patch on the beautiful 10+ year old version that Manuel opened a few years ago. It might just need time.

Equipo Navazos La Bota de Oloroso 46
I notice Jeff didn't mention this one. I wonder why.
Smoky, long, long, long finish, caramel notes, some saline, incredibly complex with a saline lift.

Truchot 2004 Charmes-Chambertin GC VV
Beautifully aromatic, a very slight pininess but only enough to be another element, wonderful lightweight wine.

Knoll 1998 "Loibner" Gruner Veltliner Federspiel
Loved this wine, vibrant, delicious!
 
originally posted by kirk wallace:
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:

Merkelbach 2002 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese - 02203, gentle acidity, my notes are illegible otherwise
Click to expand...

Did Skurnick just re-release this wine? It is on the list at both LOS and Chada in Las Vegas. so i had it twice in the past 3 days. It is an elegant whisp of a spatlese. But oh so beautiful. more rain water than anything, but there is this tiny essence of Erdener Treppchen suffusing it. and if you manage to leave a glass alone for an hour, it gets deeper and stronger. still a very delicate wine. but fun to see again. ($45 on the list at Chada, in case any one will be out that way .... 90 i think at LOS).
Click to expand...

Yes, it's an ex-cellar release. Still available at retail for under $20. Like many Merkelbachs, a great deal.
 
Thanks, Jim. Amazing that there is still wine in inventory, but i hope some of the cash is getting back to those sweet, old brothers.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
guangzhou chicken
Click to expand...
That was the gui zhou chicken.

Agree with most of your notes, though I thought the Schloss Johannisberg was pleasant if a little tired, and the Knoll was outstanding, very savoury and saline. The Oloroso 46 was a stunning wine, I didn't try much but a little went a long way, and had such amazing smoky and nutty aromatics.

I thought the Merkelbach was very pretty, elegant and understated as the wines usually tend to be, and with a nice savoury character augmenting the fruit.

Both the Egon Muller/Le Gallais Auslese and Schaefer Beerenauslese were auction bottlings. And both were exceptional - those two and the Truchot were absolutely stunning wines.
 
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