2012 St. Joseph Faury

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Steve Edmunds

Steve Edmunds
The first time I tasted St. Joseph from Philippe Faury was the '97 vintage, when it first landed in Berkeley, and I felt that if there was a wine that could teach people what the taste of Syrah is, it was that wine. Tonight at a dinner to celebrate my wife's and my 29th anniversary, we ordered a bottle of the 2012, and my impression was quite similar.

It was very well-mannered as it was introduced into the glass. Really savory, and smoky, and mineral, and then, after a few minutes, it seemed to say, "nice to meet you, and now I have to get back to business," and, without being ill-mannered, it went back into it's shell, for its long nap. Those first few minutes suggest to me that this wine, so beautifully proportioned, and chiseled, has many lovely songs to sing, but not until its time, some 7 to 10 years hence, perhaps. Since it was too late to have waited, we drank quite a bit of the bottle, just to be sure we could believe what our senses seemed to tell us, and because it was there, and we could.
 
for me, faury st. joseph has batted way above its pedigree for a long time--going on 15 years now. especially in the aromatics. in walla walla many of my customers are vignerons, and the feedback i get is always more than positive. and when i sit down to a bottle the pleasure is way more than equal to the price. perfect show and tell syrah.
 
Motivated by this spool, at Landmarc yesterday we drank a 2012 Faury Saint Joseph, clocking in at 13%. Very pleasing; chewy and juicy. Almost chunky. And With an "Imported by Kermit Lynch" label. That devil kermit, he knows his stuff. Sometimes. While peroosin the bottle I suddenly noticed, with the sudden jolt of sudden realization, that this was by a Lionel Faury. Not Philippe. By then it was too late, I had already liked the wine. But what gives?
 
Since 2006, Lionel has taken over the reins at Domaine Faury, though father and son still work side by side.

Chairman Brezeme is working on the same deal with his son, though a number of years away.
 
Boys, play nice.
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Oh, sorry. I was bad.

I thought Everett was someone's character.

Me, I'm both myself and a character.
 
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