TN: Drinking Chinon (Mar 23, 2015)

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
attendees: Brad, Pascaline, Don+Melissa, Ben, Jason, Jay, Jeff

Prompted by discussion of the unobtain (unattain?) -ability of Clos Rougeard, we promise ourselves that we'll start looking for another great Loire cab franc maker... by drinking wines we already know and love.

The reservation is under Scott Reiner's name although he could no longer attend. But the nice folks at Racines know us already and we get a warm welcome.

As folks filter in, we look around the room and have one of those New York moments: We see four Master Sommeliers in the room, two of whom are women (of which there are only 21 in the entire world). It's a big place and a little town, this New York.

On to the victuals: We decide that each person should order his or her own starter and entree but the table will share dessert: a platter of Chef Duca's luscious lamb shoulder confit.

We served the reds in flights of two.

Nigl 2005 Riesling "Privat" - beautiful, gorgeous, so much substance it seems almost tannic, aromatic, lively, a wow bottle (and Jay's only one)

Breton 2005 Bourgueil "Clos Senechal" - plenty of VA here, which blows off a bit but it remains shoe-polish-y the whole night; brambly fruit is still in good shape, mild but adequate acidity, it really is a friendly puppy of a wine (...that stuck its nose in the Kiwi)
Baudry 2002 Chinon "Franc de Pied" - here is something of a different nature altogether: this is so much lighter in weight and texture, red raspberries instead of woodsy blueberries, pure and delicate, a city slicker among the rustics

O. Raffault 1989 Chinon "Les Picasses" - strong but slightly strange nose; still youthful, typical Chinon; there is an unfortunate metallic note in the finish
O. Raffault 1990 Chinon "Les Picasses" - tobacco and saddle, so well-put-together, always a pleasure to drink this

Baudry 2008 Chinon "Croix Boissee" - another wow bottle, vivid flavors, tannins are fine and furry, a thoroughbred wine
Baudry 1996 Chinon "Croix Boissee" - recognizably the same wine as its younger sibling and the extra time has brought extra minerality, "a stone mist that fills the room"-Jay

Corbineau 1989 Touraine - warm, mature, kinda mild and not as floral as Corbineau says it should be (so perhaps this bottle is a little closed)
Couly-Dutheil 2002 Chinon "Clos de l'Echo" - another excellent Chinon, textbook, perhaps just a tad soft

Couly-Dutheil 1976 Chinon "La Baronnie Madeleine" - "When your dog becomes incontinent you will know this smell"-Jason
Joguet 2010 Chinon "Les Varennes du Grand Clos" - more red-fruited than foresty but the butter or margarine note is definitely off-putting

Huet 1990 Vouvray Moelleux "Le Haut Lieu" - very ripe, rather sweet, with air this starts to show orange blossom, not complex but a great bottle

As always, thanks are due to everyone for a great evening.
 
Thanks for being the official note taker Jeff, though I think I spied Jay also taking notes. A very fun night. In addition to the Master Sommeliers in the house, the table behind us was filled with jeebing Chambers Street and Bowler staff, along with a few noted restaurant beverage directors and David Lillie even made an appearance there. Nice to finally meet John McIlwain.

Not much to quibble about with your notes, though maybe a little on the Huet, which I found to be showing a still very youthful yellow quince character with the acidity showing some surprising moxie for a '90. More complex than I think you give it credit for with plenty of minerality and I didn't get a more evolved orange blossom note that you did. Miles to go with this one, imo.

That vied for my top wine honors along with the Nigl, the '08 Baudry Croix Boissee and the '90 Olga Raffault. I thought the only wine that didn't show well was the '76 Couly-Dutheil.
 
My comments:

I just raided CSW for some Nigl Privats. Nuff said. The 2005 was purchased on release and was under screwcap for anyone keeping score.

The Franc de Pied was all lean raspberry fruit. Really nice.

The 1989 Olga Picasses started out with a weird off putting nose which blew off with air. I preferred the 1990 at first but the 1989 passed it.

Unlike Brad I preferred the added dimensions of the 1996 Croix Boissee to the riper fruit of the delicious 2008. Sorry to see the last of those bottles go but drinking them is what's about in the end.

I did not like either Couly-Dutheil but I was at least able to taste the 2002 before dumping it. The nose on the 1976 was too horrifying to contemplate putting it on my mouth.

I thought the 1990 Huet needed to have been decanted at the beginning of the meal.
 
originally posted by Jay Miller:

My comments:

I thought the 1990 Huet needed to have been decanted at the beginning of the meal.

I wanted it decanted and kept on ice when I got there, but it was just kept on ice.
 
A fun night. Great to meet everyone.

The Baudry wines were brilliant. I was particularly struck by their chalkiness and by the vigor of the 1996 Croix Boissée. The 2002 Franc de Pied is still youthful.

The 2005 Breton Senechal improved considerably over the course of the evening but seemed a bit simple in the company of the Baudrys.

I preferred the 1989 to the 1990 Raffault, which lacked the 1989's freshness, I thought.

The lamb shoulder confit is a must for anyone going to Racines!
 
Thanks for taking some for the team!

The last 1996 Croix Boissée I had was also a study in chalk and minerals, and that was 4-5 years ago. I have only 2-3 remaining and was waiting for the appropriate moment. Do you think this is a wine that will show like this for the foreseeable future? I wonder if it will only mellow after 30 years?

The 2008 is full of surprises and is a poster child for buying great wines in every vintage.
 
I was pretty underwhelmed by the 02 Echo (bought from KandL) and am a little bummed I bought a half case. Though, I think a decade will do it much good. Not an optimal time for it. Drunk over three nights.
 
originally posted by VLM:
The last 1996 Croix Boissée I had was also a study in chalk and minerals, and that was 4-5 years ago. I have only 2-3 remaining and was waiting for the appropriate moment.

I think it would be really interesting to taste 1996 Croix Boissée alongside 1996 Olek-Méry, if anyone still has some of the latter.
 
originally posted by Brad Kane:
Thanks for being the official note taker Jeff, though I think I spied Jay also taking notes. A very fun night. In addition to the Master Sommeliers in the house, the table behind us was filled with jeebing Chambers Street and Bowler staff, along with a few noted restaurant beverage directors and David Lillie even made an appearance there. Nice to finally meet John McIlwain.

Not much to quibble about with your notes, though maybe a little on the Huet, which I found to be showing a still very youthful yellow quince character with the acidity showing some surprising moxie for a '90. More complex than I think you give it credit for with plenty of minerality and I didn't get a more evolved orange blossom note that you did. Miles to go with this one, imo.

That vied for my top wine honors along with the Nigl, the '08 Baudry Croix Boissee and the '90 Olga Raffault. I thought the only wine that didn't show well was the '76 Couly-Dutheil.
Great to see all you guys having a great time. Pretty fab lineup you had there.
 
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