Many Muscadets at Racines

[Jay Miller]

A wonderful dinner with amazing wines at Racines, focusing on the wines of Marc Ollivier but with a few others thrown in for comparison.

As many people know I've been huge fan of his wines ever since someone opened the then current release 2000 Clos des Briords at a dinner at Minetta Tavern and that $10 bottle blew away virtually everything else on the table. So when I had the chance to participate in an all Muscadet dinner at Racines I jumped at the chance. I had previously tried all the below wines except for the 2 Thebauds so it was great to see how they're doing now.

First a note on the food - my last dinner here had been a noticeable step down from all my previous visits so I'm happy to report that they are definitely back on form. All the food was excellent, beautifully presented and prepared.

2014 Pepiere Sur Lie
Lovely nose, soft clam shell mist
Spritely on the palate, a little lemon, chalky, slightly lighter vintage but no less lovely for that
David compares it to the 2004 which is high praise indeed

2012 Clisson
Incredible, I didn't buy enough
Intense, a sea surge of a wine

2012 Briords
Brighter, laser like precision, amazing. I didn't buy enough of this either.

2010 Briords
Not as intense as the 2012 Clisson but more precise, gorgeous

The two Briords seem softer next to the oysters.

2010 Clisson
More granitey, v good

I had never tried the Thebaud wines. As per David the vineyard is on fissured granite.
2010 Thebaud
Very pure, more rainwatery, my first thebaud
3 years in lees

2009 Thebaud
Haunting nose , enthralling palate. I bought 2 magnums before I finished the glass.

2009 Briords
Great, but Needs more time, a little rough

2009 Clisson
No notes? How did I miss this?

2007 Briords
Wow! Three granite prongs impaling eagle point oysters

2005 Briords
Same but a still pool with a granite rock thrown in sending ripples of minerality

2004 Briords
Still my favorite, creaminess married to minerality, gorgeous

With the scallops the 2004 became muted but the 2007 cut through the richness, the 20005 worked very well

My palate is starting to flag a bit at this point as I'm yawning my head off and hoping the last two courses arrive soon. Impressions are even less reliable than usual.

2004 LP Clos des noelles
good, but not that interesting

2002 Briords
Angry at being opened, let it sleep
After a half hour in the glass it wakes up and starts strutting its stuff.

2002 Luneau Papin L d'Or
Better than the Briords to start with, but is surpassed once that wine opens up

1999 Luneau Papin L d'Or
Good, but not exciting (or fatigue is taking its toll). But at least that shower curtain note which plagued this bottling for years is gone.

1989 Luneau Papin L d'Or
corked

1988 Clos des Briords
This wine wakes me up. Pure, mossy, complex, Good acidity, fascinating

 

[Michael Lewis]

Oh my!

 

[VLM]

That 2002 Briords is a special wine. My last bottle felt ready, though.

I'm on a hiatus, but this is almost making me pull the trigger on more 2012 Clisson.

 

[Jay Miller]

originally posted by VLM:
That 2002 Briords is a special wine. My last bottle felt ready, though.

I think I still have one bottle but it might be the L d'Or. I'll get on Cellartracker one of these days.

Maybe after I retire.

 

[Brad Kane]

I got spoiled early. I believe the first Muscadet I ever had was when I was working at Garnet back in the day and David opened up the newly arrived '95 Clos des Briords. That vintage still remains one of my favorite. Drank my last one about about seven years ago, thinking I still had another one in the cellar to age further.

 

[Unknown]

There was no 2009 Clisson! The list was in flux until the last day, you probably read off an earlier version.

Wonderful line-up. Much general agreement, but I'll nitpick; after all, what are we here for!

I am assuming this '02 Briords was premoxed, if lightly so, but I don't have recent data points.

I agree that this '04 Briords was great, but a bottle off the list at Racines in February was even better.

Both '99 and '97 L d'Or need a lot of air these days. An hour+.

I very much appreciated '05 Briords (not everyone at the table did), but I think the wine is totally adolescent right now.

I was really impressed by composure and balance of every 2010 we had.

I still love '12 Briords, but I did not think it was nearly as exciting as when it was younger, e.g. 8-10 months ago. But it will be again.

 

[mark e]

originally posted by VLM:

I'm on a hiatus, but this is almost making me pull the trigger on more 2012 Clisson.

Don't.

 

[Jay Miller]

originally posted by .sasha:
I am assuming this '02 Briords was premoxed, if lightly so, but I don't have recent data points.

I didn't notice any of the notes I usually associate with premox. It just seemed a bit grumpy to me.

Of course I've been experiencing extreme premox in my 2002 Huets for so long that maybe anything less slips by me.

 

[VLM]

originally posted by mark e:

originally posted by VLM:

I'm on a hiatus, but this is almost making me pull the trigger on more 2012 Clisson.

Don't.

What do you mean? Trying to hoard it all yourself?

 

[Mike Evans]

I'm jealous, that's a great lineup. And the notes pushed me to pull the trigger on the 2010 Thebaud and a little more 2012 Clisson while I wait for this state's allocation of the latter to make its way here.

It's painful to learn that the 1989 L d'Or was destroyed by bark. When I last tried it in December, it was excellent and still incredibly youthful, disappointing only because it was a little thin in the middle and thus not quite as perfect as some other bottles have been. Fortunately I still have 2 or 3 left.

If anyone wants to do a southern version of this tasting, I still have a good bit of 1997 and a couple of 2000 Clos des Briords in addition to the 1989 L d'Or that it would be fun to share.

 

[VLM]

originally posted by Mike Evans:
I'm jealous, that's a great lineup. And the notes pushed me to pull the trigger on the 2010 Thebaud and a little more 2012 Clisson while I wait for this state's allocation of the latter to make its way here.

It's painful to learn that the 1989 L d'Or was destroyed by bark. When I last tried it in December, it was excellent and still incredibly youthful, disappointing only because it was a little thin in the middle and thus not quite as perfect as some other bottles have been. Fortunately I still have 2 or 3 left.

If anyone wants to do a southern version of this tasting, I still have a good bit of 1997 and a couple of 2000 Clos des Briords in addition to the 1989 L d'Or that it would be fun to share.

Mike, between this and your SM post, it seems like we may be due some sort of Southern Jeebus. I'd be happy to host at Rue Cler. Maybe we can even get blackwood out of retirement and schedule it around Jim passing through town.

Don't sleep on the 2010 Quatre. I had it for the first time (I think, who knows really) last night and was very, very impressed.

 

[mark e]

originally posted by VLM:

originally posted by mark e:

originally posted by VLM:

I'm on a hiatus, but this is almost making me pull the trigger on more 2012 Clisson.

Don't.

What do you mean? Trying to hoard it all yourself?

Not at all. I found it to be pretty closed right now; I'd imagine it will show so much better in about 6 months. So I'm not opening more of it for a while, and certainly not the mags. When you come over we can drink a mag of 2010 Briords, which I'm guessing is rocking right about now.

Don't sleep on the 2010 Quatre. I had it for the first time (I think, who knows really) last night and was very, very impressed.

Here I completely agree. The wine is phenomenal now. But I didn't love it the next day. Just seemed a bit tired, oddly.

 

[Unknown]

I would not say '10 Briords was rocking on Tuesday, but it is in a state where it's necessary to drink a whole bottle to see how it's choosing not to rock. For decryption, refer to Jeff Connell.

 

[mark e]

originally posted by .sasha:
I would not say '10 Briords was rocking on Tuesday, but it is in a state where it's necessary to drink a whole bottle to see how it's choosing not to rock. For decryption, refer to Jeff Connell.

Knowing me, knowing you, knowing Connell. It makes perfect sense.

 

[VLM]

originally posted by VLM:

originally posted by Mike Evans:
I'm jealous, that's a great lineup. And the notes pushed me to pull the trigger on the 2010 Thebaud and a little more 2012 Clisson while I wait for this state's allocation of the latter to make its way here.

It's painful to learn that the 1989 L d'Or was destroyed by bark. When I last tried it in December, it was excellent and still incredibly youthful, disappointing only because it was a little thin in the middle and thus not quite as perfect as some other bottles have been. Fortunately I still have 2 or 3 left.

If anyone wants to do a southern version of this tasting, I still have a good bit of 1997 and a couple of 2000 Clos des Briords in addition to the 1989 L d'Or that it would be fun to share.

Mike, between this and your SM post, it seems like we may be due some sort of Southern Jeebus. I'd be happy to host at Rue Cler. Maybe we can even get blackwood out of retirement and schedule it around Jim passing through town.

Don't sleep on the 2010 Quatre. I had it for the first time (I think, who knows really) last night and was very, very impressed.

There's a post on the Jeebus board for the Southern Jeeb.

 

[VLM]

originally posted by mark e:

originally posted by VLM:

originally posted by mark e:

originally posted by VLM:

I'm on a hiatus, but this is almost making me pull the trigger on more 2012 Clisson.

Don't.

What do you mean? Trying to hoard it all yourself?

Not at all. I found it to be pretty closed right now; I'd imagine it will show so much better in about 6 months. So I'm not opening more of it for a while, and certainly not the mags. When you come over we can drink a mag of 2010 Briords, which I'm guessing is rocking right about now.

I meant I might need to buy more. I don't need to taste Marc and Remy's wines personally to make a buying decision. We need to schedule that gathering soon.

Don't sleep on the 2010 Quatre. I had it for the first time (I think, who knows really) last night and was very, very impressed.

Here I completely agree. The wine is phenomenal now. But I didn't love it the next day. Just seemed a bit tired, oddly.

Well, I have half the bottle left and will try it tonight, so that'll be a 2 day test.

 

[VLM]

originally posted by VLM:

originally posted by mark e:

originally posted by VLM:

originally posted by mark e:

originally posted by VLM:

I'm on a hiatus, but this is almost making me pull the trigger on more 2012 Clisson.

Don't.

What do you mean? Trying to hoard it all yourself?

Not at all. I found it to be pretty closed right now; I'd imagine it will show so much better in about 6 months. So I'm not opening more of it for a while, and certainly not the mags. When you come over we can drink a mag of 2010 Briords, which I'm guessing is rocking right about now.

I meant I might need to buy more. I don't need to taste Marc and Remy's wines personally to make a buying decision. We need to schedule that gathering soon.

Don't sleep on the 2010 Quatre. I had it for the first time (I think, who knows really) last night and was very, very impressed.

Here I completely agree. The wine is phenomenal now. But I didn't love it the next day. Just seemed a bit tired, oddly.

Well, I have half the bottle left and will try it tonight, so that'll be a 2 day test.

So, I'm drinking it now and it's pretty damn tasty. The fruit has receded and it is more taught, mineral and leesy. Doesn't have the length of a great Briords or Clisson, so maybe that's what left you wanting? I'm pretty happy with it.

 

[mark e]

originally posted by VLM:

originally posted by VLM:

originally posted by mark e:

originally posted by VLM:

originally posted by mark e:

originally posted by VLM:

I'm on a hiatus, but this is almost making me pull the trigger on more 2012 Clisson.

Don't.

What do you mean? Trying to hoard it all yourself?

Not at all. I found it to be pretty closed right now; I'd imagine it will show so much better in about 6 months. So I'm not opening more of it for a while, and certainly not the mags. When you come over we can drink a mag of 2010 Briords, which I'm guessing is rocking right about now.

I meant I might need to buy more. I don't need to taste Marc and Remy's wines personally to make a buying decision. We need to schedule that gathering soon.

Don't sleep on the 2010 Quatre. I had it for the first time (I think, who knows really) last night and was very, very impressed.

Here I completely agree. The wine is phenomenal now. But I didn't love it the next day. Just seemed a bit tired, oddly.

Well, I have half the bottle left and will try it tonight, so that'll be a 2 day test.

So, I'm drinking it now and it's pretty damn tasty. The fruit has receded and it is more taught, mineral and leesy. Doesn't have the length of a great Briords or Clisson, so maybe that's what left you wanting? I'm pretty happy with it.

Exactly. Your explanation is both more accurate and more generous.

 

[slaton]

Jay, thanks for the notes. Still kind of on the fence after all these years about the extended lees aged versions. Have really enjoyed specific bottles now and then, but have had just as many that made me shrug. Whereas pretty much every bottle of Briords amazes.

In particular the aging curve of wines like Clisson puzzles me. So far I've tended to enjoy them most very shortly after release.

 

[Ian Fitzsimmons]

Opened several 02 Luneau-Papin Excelsior (Poyet) this year that have been astonishingly good - and I describe them so advisedly. Completely surprising depth, potency, intensity, especially considering where they were a year or two ago. As a proxy for extended lees aged Muscadet, pretty compelling.

And purchased at $10 a bottle, which just makes you laugh.