Sharon Bowman
Sharon Bowman
So, chef Daniel Eddy is doing great things at this new restaurant (name in subject line) on the Bowery in New York, next to Pearl & Ash, run by the same team. The wine list is also an exciting thing.
I was there again yesterday evening with a few folk.
Or to style things Jeff Grossman-wise:
Rémy, Sharon, Pascaline, Alice, Peter
Here are a few inkblots.
2013 Lieu Dit Chenin Blanc - I was pleasantly surprised by this California chenin (it is served by the glass) as a starter sip. It didn't have any tropical New World fruits, which mar for me chenins I've had from outside of France, including ones that are supposed to be reined in. However, our native Ligérienne deemed it "underripe." Maybe I just don't like fruit? Fear the scurvy, SB.
2002 Vatan Sancerre Clos la Néore - What can I say about this wine other than: my brain is melted from its goodness. It is just electric; it has been so since the first time I had it perhaps four years ago. Three subsequent outings have been conclusive. This continues. Its texture and weight are weightless and textural and perfect. As much as I never seem to warm to (white) Sancerres from F. and P. Cotat, this always seems to punch me in the solar plexus and then rub my back.
2011 Ostertag Muenchberg Epfig Riesling - OK, right? Alsace? Riesling? Some oak? What now? This was something I struggled against but finally threw my hands up and agreed to order. And it was a pleasant surprise. Good viscous texture, and it was dancing in spats with the fluke crudo with brown butter and fried capers I was eating. (Note to chef: fucking delicious dish.)
2005 Lafarge Volnay - My favorite village. This was balanced pinot noir as we like it. It was Burgundy without fuss; it kindly took the hand of the duck breast I was noshing on and strolled along with it.
Then there was some scattering and then when I came back to the table there seemed to be a large plateful of aged Comté. Which, well, c'mon.
So:
2009 Ganevat Chalasses Marnes Bleues - This is an old favorite, and a sentimental order. Ouillé savagnin. Interestingly, though I'd always perceived it as a bruiser—dense, fatty, gorgeous but plump—it had become a bit leaner with age. It was really fine, like a light, light yellow pane on a complex church window.
One walks out into the night on the Bowery feeling good.
I was there again yesterday evening with a few folk.
Or to style things Jeff Grossman-wise:
Rémy, Sharon, Pascaline, Alice, Peter
Here are a few inkblots.
2013 Lieu Dit Chenin Blanc - I was pleasantly surprised by this California chenin (it is served by the glass) as a starter sip. It didn't have any tropical New World fruits, which mar for me chenins I've had from outside of France, including ones that are supposed to be reined in. However, our native Ligérienne deemed it "underripe." Maybe I just don't like fruit? Fear the scurvy, SB.
2002 Vatan Sancerre Clos la Néore - What can I say about this wine other than: my brain is melted from its goodness. It is just electric; it has been so since the first time I had it perhaps four years ago. Three subsequent outings have been conclusive. This continues. Its texture and weight are weightless and textural and perfect. As much as I never seem to warm to (white) Sancerres from F. and P. Cotat, this always seems to punch me in the solar plexus and then rub my back.
2011 Ostertag Muenchberg Epfig Riesling - OK, right? Alsace? Riesling? Some oak? What now? This was something I struggled against but finally threw my hands up and agreed to order. And it was a pleasant surprise. Good viscous texture, and it was dancing in spats with the fluke crudo with brown butter and fried capers I was eating. (Note to chef: fucking delicious dish.)
2005 Lafarge Volnay - My favorite village. This was balanced pinot noir as we like it. It was Burgundy without fuss; it kindly took the hand of the duck breast I was noshing on and strolled along with it.
Then there was some scattering and then when I came back to the table there seemed to be a large plateful of aged Comté. Which, well, c'mon.
So:
2009 Ganevat Chalasses Marnes Bleues - This is an old favorite, and a sentimental order. Ouillé savagnin. Interestingly, though I'd always perceived it as a bruiser—dense, fatty, gorgeous but plump—it had become a bit leaner with age. It was really fine, like a light, light yellow pane on a complex church window.
One walks out into the night on the Bowery feeling good.