FBK: Thanksgiving Part 3

VLM

VLM
Originally posted on the VLM-TR.

Part three of my west coast swing brought me down to LA to have Thanksgiving with my oldest friend and his fianc. She is Croatian and this was her first stab at a Thanksgiving meal. She did a pretty good job too.

This was an interesting couple of days because the folks I saw are not wine geeks at all (unlike in SF), but folks who like wine but dont pay the obsessive amount of attention to it that I do. Its always interesting to see what they like and dont.

2004 Luberri Rioja Seis
Ive liked the 2005 better than this vintage. It just seems a bit diffuse and ripe, but is a decent enough drop I suppose. No one really complained about it.

2004 Ferrando Carema
This was easily the class of the evening and the universal favorite. Its funny, but I have long insisted that at the table folks will recognize real wine even in the company of wines that are more mainstream, for lack of a better word. This was a case in point. It showed a level of gentleness I wouldnt have expected of young Ferrando white label. What is so interesting about this wine is that it gives the red fruits of nebbiolo, but then veers somewhere different from its Barolo cousins, more towards a sprinkling of herbs and flowers with a light and airy nature that makes me think of its Alpine home without loosing drive and maintaining clout. A neat trick.

2005 Seavey Napa Valley cabernet Caravina
This was awful. Couldnt even finish the bottle even though we only had 3 bottles for 5 people.

The next night a good friend from graduate school and his wife joined us for dinner at restaurant 2117 in Santa Monica. A couple things about this meal. First, it was throwback food from the early 90s. Asian fusion and with that sort of presentation, the dcor was on the dim side too. However, the food was top notch in its idiom, and I really appreciated the lightness of touch on the dishes. They were all extraordinarily wine friendly, even to subtle wines and priced very fairly. Thanks to Dan Fredman for taking me here the first time.

2000 Blain-Gagnard Chassagne 1er La Boudriotte
I thought this could go either way and was pretty happy that it went very much in the positive direction. A nice dollop of oak spice over the top to crown some nice, racy, Chassagne fruit that seemed to be mid-way through its first phase of life. Its a place I like my white Burgundy, still with some youthful fruit, vigor and cut, but old enough to have developed some complexity.

2006 Albert Boxler Sommerberg Riesling
This started out seeming a bit sweet and clunky, but breed always shows, and such breed it is. Ive said before that I think that Boxlers Sommerberg may be the best wine made in Alsace, and for me, it is hard to think of a wine that I find more stimulating. Seems silly to laundry list the complexity of this wine so if you like wine of depth, character, balance and precision, then this is a wine for you.

2006 Gonon St.-Joseph
This sort of got lost in the shuffle with so many other wines showing so strongly and being surprises. Very clean and defined syrah nose. Not all smoked bacon but a nice blend of an umami meatiness that was mineral inflected and had good lift. I can see why folks like it so much. Something Ill be seeking out in the future.

1987 Freemark Abbey Cabernet Sauvignon Bosch Vineyard
Another gamble and another great showing. Old-school Napa cabernet in the best sense in that it only carried 12.8% alcohol and maintained a lovely balance throughout the evening between ripe fruit, tannin and just a hint of snap. It wasnt the least bit ashamed of showing some herbaceousness, and we were grateful for how that complimented the food. This really scratched an itch for me as I really dont hate California cabernet sauvignon, its just that I dont recognize it anymore. I guess Im a Goldwater Republican, I didnt leave the party, the party left me. It was at its apex now but should hold well for 5 years or more.
 
2004 Ferrando Carema
This was easily the class of the evening and the universal favorite. Its funny, but I have long insisted that at the table folks will recognize real wine even in the company of wines that are more mainstream, for lack of a better word. This was a case in point. It showed a level of gentleness I wouldnt have expected of young Ferrando white label. What is so interesting about this wine is that it gives the red fruits of nebbiolo, but then veers somewhere different from its Barolo cousins, more towards a sprinkling of herbs and flowers with a light and airy nature that makes me think of its Alpine home without loosing drive and maintaining clout. A neat trick.

Mannn, are you channeling Zul?
 
originally posted by MarkS:
2004 Ferrando Carema
This was easily the class of the evening and the universal favorite. Its funny, but I have long insisted that at the table folks will recognize real wine even in the company of wines that are more mainstream, for lack of a better word. This was a case in point. It showed a level of gentleness I wouldnt have expected of young Ferrando white label. What is so interesting about this wine is that it gives the red fruits of nebbiolo, but then veers somewhere different from its Barolo cousins, more towards a sprinkling of herbs and flowers with a light and airy nature that makes me think of its Alpine home without loosing drive and maintaining clout. A neat trick.

Mannn, are you channeling Zul?

I am Zul. Hear me roar.
 
I had the '04 Ferrando Carema last night. VLM's description was accurate, with perhaps just the faintest hint of cinnamon added - I quite liked the wine.

I thought it was at its best popped and poured - it was delicious throughout the evening, but I thought it got tougher and a little less giving with air. Does anyone know what happens to the white labels as they age? Is it the same long haul as with Barolo/Barbaresco or are they more soonish wines? What about the black labels?
 
originally posted by Steven Spielmann:
I had the '04 Ferrando Carema last night. VLM's description was accurate, with perhaps just the faintest hint of cinnamon added - I quite liked the wine.

I thought it was at its best popped and poured - it was delicious throughout the evening, but I thought it got tougher and a little less giving with air. Does anyone know what happens to the white labels as they age? Is it the same long haul as with Barolo/Barbaresco or are they more soonish wines? What about the black labels?
You should go back and look at Slaton's post during the 31 Days of Merrymaking, er, Natural Wines on Cory's blog. He wrote about the '04 Ferrando Carema and also an older one. If I recall correctly, it ages pretty well. Hopefully, Slaton will chime in. Also, if you get a chance, check out Neal Rosenthal's autobiography. There is a whole section on Ferrando.
 
And the bonus is: that's one of the few chapters that doesn't read like it was written by Eeyore.
 
originally posted by Thor:
And the bonus is: that's one of the few chapters that doesn't read like it was written by Eeyore.
Shit, that's the funniest thing I've heard in a while. Too, too true. I was trying to explain the book to somebody and that would have been the perfect descriptor. 'Oh, whoa is me. Travelling behind Kermit and Chadderdon is not all that glamorous kids. Looks like the skies are grey again. Better get to my next appointment. Sigh'
 
I wanted to like the book. I really did. But Kermit's Adventures made me love wine (not that I didn't before), whereas after Rosenthal's book I wanted to go drown my sorrows in a vat of bourbon.

Plus, you know...man up, Neal. If you're going to talk shit about other importers, then talk shit about them. Don't hint and imply, and then get all shy about it.
 
originally posted by Steven Spielmann:
I had the '04 Ferrando Carema last night. VLM's description was accurate, with perhaps just the faintest hint of cinnamon added - I quite liked the wine.

Glad there was some accuracy.

I thought it was at its best popped and poured - it was delicious throughout the evening, but I thought it got tougher and a little less giving with air.

Not surprising.

Does anyone know what happens to the white labels as they age? Is it the same long haul as with Barolo/Barbaresco or are they more soonish wines?

IME, they age in a similar manner to Barbaresco, but more on the soonish side. That being said, different folks have a different idea of sweet spots and I've never had a really old Ferrando, so I can't speak to the 30+ year idea.

What about the black labels?

Lots of new wood and I think a parcel selection, but am not sure. I've had examples where the oak aged out, but it is variable and can be oppressive. I prefer the white label.

Speaking of which, I had a 2003 not long ago that was in a really cool place. Sort of a Lapierre like expression of Carema in terms of weight. Ready to go and very good with food.
 
originally posted by Thor:
I wanted to like the book. I really did. But Kermit's Adventures made me love wine (not that I didn't before), whereas after Rosenthal's book I wanted to go drown my sorrows in a vat of bourbon.

I only got a couple chapters in and had to stop. Luckily I forgot where I put the book.
 
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