Jeff Grossman
Jeff Grossman
Google says they are vineyard names.
California Dreamin' (Part 2)
- Thread starter Oswaldo Costa
- Start date
Bill Lundstrom
Bill Lundstrom
ah, thanks.
Sharon Bowman
Sharon Bowman
That would be a complicated ménage, given that Arnot and Roberts are two different fellows.
Bill Lundstrom
Bill Lundstrom
there's that.
Jeff Grossman
Jeff Grossman
OK, now that I did my research more carefully, that statement is confused. I will edit.
Ian Fitzsimmons
Ian Fitzsimmons
Reminds me somewhat of the wine descriptions in that movie about sommeliers-in-training.
Oswaldo Costa
Oswaldo Costa
Earlier this month we spent ten days in Florida, interspersing a bit of bizness in Miami with parental hardship at Universal Studios and a celebration dinner at the renowned Bern’s Steak House in Tampa.
Had some bottles shipped to where we were sojourning so most nights we stayed in and consumed with assorted cheeses and breads (thank you Whole Foods; expensive, but guarantees a modicum of civilization in the boondocks).
Since the orange state is not particularly noted for wine, we stuck to the more European side of California with mostly gratifying results.
2009 Littorai One Acre Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 13.3%
Cherry cola and smoke. Racy and pure, with pleasing balance and weight, though ends a trifle sweet before food. Not Burgundian, thank goodness, but still bantam. New worldly without being modern. Suave.
2012 Anthill Farms Abbey Harris Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 13.0%
Ominously purple. Nose a bit closed, showing some spice and cherry. Savory and tasty, with good weight and balance. Not clearly pinot, but enjoyable. Again, seems new worldly without being modern.
2005 Radio-Coteau Las Colinas Sonoma Coast Syrah 14.6%
Dark. Prunes and blackberries. Served cool, not as concentrated as feared. No wood. Some ripeness, but no bruiser. Tasty and juicy, wouldn’t have guessed more than 13.5%. Pleasant surprise.
2012 Banshee Rice-Spivak Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 13.3%
Simple but fragrantly attractive cola nose. Fine acidity and yummy, vinous fruit. Very nice.
2012 Ceritas Escarpa Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 12.9%
Beautiful and lively aroma, definitely smells carbonic. Good balance and body. Totally delicious, despite a slightly overfriendly finish. Lovely drink.
2013 Williams Selyem Sonoma County Pinot Noir 13.7%
Smoky cola and cherry. Juicy, with good weight and balance, but rather cloying thanks to a surfeit of dilly (American) oak. Couldn’t finish my share, but I’m sure it’s fine for the palates of others.
At Michael’s in Miami, a nice enough restaurant with ultra-competent service, good food (especially desserts), and an excellent (for FL) wine list.
2012 Steve Matthiasson Napa Valley White Wine 12.7%
Blend of ribolla gialla and sauvignon blanc. Lovely florals and minerals. Excellent weight and balance. The ribolla seems to give it a rounder feel, while the sauvignon keeps it honest. Napa that tastes like Sonoma.
Bern’s Steak House in Tampa
They only had room for us at 9PM, a bit late for the four year old, but that brought us some unintended rewards in the form of wine leftovers from other tables (more on that later), since we were among the last to leave. Initially, the place was jammed, and had the authentic old steakhouse feel. The patrons were mostly the cigar chomping kind, gesticulating with empty hands towards their platinum companions. The menu is intimidating, requiring an advanced degree in meat, since every imaginable cut appears on a chart and comes available in any desired thickness, degree of cooking, and choice of inside AND outside temperatures. Our waiter seemed silky and knowledgeable, so we threw in the napkins and asked for the lay of the land, aka Bern’s for Dummies. We settled on a Chateaubriand for two that was the tenderest meat imaginable, tasty and cooked to perfection, though a bit cold by the time it got to us. The surrounding alimentary static (onion soup, some bread thingies, and potatoes) was not of the same level of the meat. The wine list was indeed biblical in size, as rumored, though the vintages of well-known names were on the younger side, whereas mature vintages were either for less well-known names, or prohibitively expensive. But I was thrilled to find and order the two Kalins below, bringing out the first moment of admiring complicity from our waiter, Jack Wilkinson, who turned out to be a bartender and certified sommelier, and certifiably congenial.
1981 Kalin Cellars Sonoma Chardonnay Cuvée D 13.0%
Beautiful golden hue (and cry). Smells like asparagus soup, mushrooms and hazelnuts. Very fresh tasting, with bright acidity. Infinitesimally oxidative. Very satisfying weight, not remotely unctuous. Just a thing of beauty, despite the inner butteriness of the variety. One of the better whites in recent memory, and deeply satisfying. Can’t wait to try the Sémillon.
1993 Kalin Cellars Sonoma County Pinot Noir Cuvée DD 13.5%
At first this showed some v.a., but Jack seemed to think it was OK, so I let him decant it, hoping that might snatch victory from the jaws of the feet. The v.a. seemed to blow off, but despite no obvious defect, it simply gave no pleasure. The ever solicitous Jack said no problem, and took it away from both table and bill. All wine from that point onwards was, i kid u knot, free as a boid.
2012 Beatrice et Pascal Lambert Chinon Les Terrasses 12.0%
I had mentioned to Jack that we were into natural wine, which he is beginning to learn about, and he brightened when I included (the) Jura among our favorite regions. So he brought us some natural wine to taste blind. This was the sort of wine we can all identify in our sleep, so I said "well, it’s obviously cabernet franc" and he said "you’re right!" Then I said "if it's not Chinon, it's a dead ringer for it" (one always has to hedge one’s bets) and he said "wow, it’s indeed Chinon! That is a testament not only to your knowledge, but to the wine." I asked "how so?" And he said, "well, it means that the wine tastes like it should." Not profound, perhaps, but it’s undoubtedly true that every time I've guessed wrong, it was because the wine didn't taste like it ought. But I digress: the bottle of Chinon was on the house, and after that Jack brought us two bottles left over from a table of grandees. The first was a burg from 1982, I believe, already a bit tired, but the second was a 1955 Musigny from s négociant called Thorin that was just gorgeous. The fact that 1995 is my birth year brought the evening to a serendipitous close, and Jack said to tell all my friends to ask for him should they ever descend upon the house.
Had some bottles shipped to where we were sojourning so most nights we stayed in and consumed with assorted cheeses and breads (thank you Whole Foods; expensive, but guarantees a modicum of civilization in the boondocks).
Since the orange state is not particularly noted for wine, we stuck to the more European side of California with mostly gratifying results.
2009 Littorai One Acre Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 13.3%
Cherry cola and smoke. Racy and pure, with pleasing balance and weight, though ends a trifle sweet before food. Not Burgundian, thank goodness, but still bantam. New worldly without being modern. Suave.
2012 Anthill Farms Abbey Harris Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 13.0%
Ominously purple. Nose a bit closed, showing some spice and cherry. Savory and tasty, with good weight and balance. Not clearly pinot, but enjoyable. Again, seems new worldly without being modern.
2005 Radio-Coteau Las Colinas Sonoma Coast Syrah 14.6%
Dark. Prunes and blackberries. Served cool, not as concentrated as feared. No wood. Some ripeness, but no bruiser. Tasty and juicy, wouldn’t have guessed more than 13.5%. Pleasant surprise.
2012 Banshee Rice-Spivak Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 13.3%
Simple but fragrantly attractive cola nose. Fine acidity and yummy, vinous fruit. Very nice.
2012 Ceritas Escarpa Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 12.9%
Beautiful and lively aroma, definitely smells carbonic. Good balance and body. Totally delicious, despite a slightly overfriendly finish. Lovely drink.
2013 Williams Selyem Sonoma County Pinot Noir 13.7%
Smoky cola and cherry. Juicy, with good weight and balance, but rather cloying thanks to a surfeit of dilly (American) oak. Couldn’t finish my share, but I’m sure it’s fine for the palates of others.
At Michael’s in Miami, a nice enough restaurant with ultra-competent service, good food (especially desserts), and an excellent (for FL) wine list.
2012 Steve Matthiasson Napa Valley White Wine 12.7%
Blend of ribolla gialla and sauvignon blanc. Lovely florals and minerals. Excellent weight and balance. The ribolla seems to give it a rounder feel, while the sauvignon keeps it honest. Napa that tastes like Sonoma.
Bern’s Steak House in Tampa
They only had room for us at 9PM, a bit late for the four year old, but that brought us some unintended rewards in the form of wine leftovers from other tables (more on that later), since we were among the last to leave. Initially, the place was jammed, and had the authentic old steakhouse feel. The patrons were mostly the cigar chomping kind, gesticulating with empty hands towards their platinum companions. The menu is intimidating, requiring an advanced degree in meat, since every imaginable cut appears on a chart and comes available in any desired thickness, degree of cooking, and choice of inside AND outside temperatures. Our waiter seemed silky and knowledgeable, so we threw in the napkins and asked for the lay of the land, aka Bern’s for Dummies. We settled on a Chateaubriand for two that was the tenderest meat imaginable, tasty and cooked to perfection, though a bit cold by the time it got to us. The surrounding alimentary static (onion soup, some bread thingies, and potatoes) was not of the same level of the meat. The wine list was indeed biblical in size, as rumored, though the vintages of well-known names were on the younger side, whereas mature vintages were either for less well-known names, or prohibitively expensive. But I was thrilled to find and order the two Kalins below, bringing out the first moment of admiring complicity from our waiter, Jack Wilkinson, who turned out to be a bartender and certified sommelier, and certifiably congenial.
1981 Kalin Cellars Sonoma Chardonnay Cuvée D 13.0%
Beautiful golden hue (and cry). Smells like asparagus soup, mushrooms and hazelnuts. Very fresh tasting, with bright acidity. Infinitesimally oxidative. Very satisfying weight, not remotely unctuous. Just a thing of beauty, despite the inner butteriness of the variety. One of the better whites in recent memory, and deeply satisfying. Can’t wait to try the Sémillon.
1993 Kalin Cellars Sonoma County Pinot Noir Cuvée DD 13.5%
At first this showed some v.a., but Jack seemed to think it was OK, so I let him decant it, hoping that might snatch victory from the jaws of the feet. The v.a. seemed to blow off, but despite no obvious defect, it simply gave no pleasure. The ever solicitous Jack said no problem, and took it away from both table and bill. All wine from that point onwards was, i kid u knot, free as a boid.
2012 Beatrice et Pascal Lambert Chinon Les Terrasses 12.0%
I had mentioned to Jack that we were into natural wine, which he is beginning to learn about, and he brightened when I included (the) Jura among our favorite regions. So he brought us some natural wine to taste blind. This was the sort of wine we can all identify in our sleep, so I said "well, it’s obviously cabernet franc" and he said "you’re right!" Then I said "if it's not Chinon, it's a dead ringer for it" (one always has to hedge one’s bets) and he said "wow, it’s indeed Chinon! That is a testament not only to your knowledge, but to the wine." I asked "how so?" And he said, "well, it means that the wine tastes like it should." Not profound, perhaps, but it’s undoubtedly true that every time I've guessed wrong, it was because the wine didn't taste like it ought. But I digress: the bottle of Chinon was on the house, and after that Jack brought us two bottles left over from a table of grandees. The first was a burg from 1982, I believe, already a bit tired, but the second was a 1955 Musigny from s négociant called Thorin that was just gorgeous. The fact that 1995 is my birth year brought the evening to a serendipitous close, and Jack said to tell all my friends to ask for him should they ever descend upon the house.
Florida Jim
Florida Jim
Oswaldo,
At a recent tasting, the 2012 Leo Steen, "The Steen" Chenin Blanc from the Jurassic Park Vineyard, which is sand and limestone, and was fermented in cement, took my breath. Even better than the Saint Farms. Highly recommended should it come your way and about $28/retail.
On a future trip, Steen, Ryme and Idlewild are now sharing space north of Healdsburg and that makes for an informative and delicious appointment.
If I am in town, I'd like to go, too.
Best, Jim
At a recent tasting, the 2012 Leo Steen, "The Steen" Chenin Blanc from the Jurassic Park Vineyard, which is sand and limestone, and was fermented in cement, took my breath. Even better than the Saint Farms. Highly recommended should it come your way and about $28/retail.
On a future trip, Steen, Ryme and Idlewild are now sharing space north of Healdsburg and that makes for an informative and delicious appointment.
If I am in town, I'd like to go, too.
Best, Jim
Zachary Ross
Zachary Ross
Meet me at Art Basel next year.
Oswaldo Costa
Oswaldo Costa
That totally figures. These new Californians, Leo Steen included (if we can include a great Dane in their midst) are a pleasure to explore, with their friendly, back-slappin', how ya doin', hootenanny ways. They take you by the hand, in contrast with the severe - "you must be tested for worthiness" - outlander template. Enough already, sometimes.
Oswaldo Costa
Oswaldo Costa
Date. Did you see the stabbing?
Jeff Grossman
Jeff Grossman
Great tale, Oswaldo. Thanks.
Zachary Ross
Zachary Ross
I didn't, but from what I gather it wasn't so far from our booth.
Oswaldo Costa
Oswaldo Costa
2007 Domaine Hubert Lamy St. Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard 13.0%
Pleasant mineral aroma with some fennel and no sign of oak. Excellent weight and balance, bright acidity, showing slight wood in the mouth as the temperature rises; so light that it might just be the butteriness that even unoaked chardonnays can sometimes show.
2008 Domaine Hubert Lamy St. Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard
Very pretty mineral-driven aroma, refreshingly citric. Again, excellent weight and balance, this time with a pleasingly tart finish. No hint of wood. This is the kind of (rare) white Burgundy that really has my (quercophobic) number, the alter-ego of something buttery like a Coche. Went surprisingly well with Époisses, its acidity the perfect foil for the cheese’s fat. Loved it!
1996 Alain Burguet Gevrey-Chambertin En Reniard
Saddle leather, plum, barnyard. Faint CO2, possibly from mild re-fermentation. Good balance and weight. Quite tasty, but not particularly noteworthy.
Pleasant mineral aroma with some fennel and no sign of oak. Excellent weight and balance, bright acidity, showing slight wood in the mouth as the temperature rises; so light that it might just be the butteriness that even unoaked chardonnays can sometimes show.
2008 Domaine Hubert Lamy St. Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard
Very pretty mineral-driven aroma, refreshingly citric. Again, excellent weight and balance, this time with a pleasingly tart finish. No hint of wood. This is the kind of (rare) white Burgundy that really has my (quercophobic) number, the alter-ego of something buttery like a Coche. Went surprisingly well with Époisses, its acidity the perfect foil for the cheese’s fat. Loved it!
1996 Alain Burguet Gevrey-Chambertin En Reniard
Saddle leather, plum, barnyard. Faint CO2, possibly from mild re-fermentation. Good balance and weight. Quite tasty, but not particularly noteworthy.
Oswaldo Costa
Oswaldo Costa
On successive December nights, three august 95s with dinner at home.
1995 Domaine Joseph Drouhin Clos de Vougeot 13.5%
Cherry, rubber, and tertiaries. More acid than sweet before food, relatively balanced afterwards. But a little thin, without the gravitas, even the ethereal gravitas, that one might expect from a GC. Must have been tastier when the fruit was fresher. Second of two similar bottles from the cellar of someone who bought them on release.
1995 Domaine Maume Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques 13.0%
Cola, cherry, soy sauce, and tertiaries. Juicy and sappy, with delicious acidity. Very good on its own, with food it strangely declined to tango, engendering a petite morte on the sands of Marathon.
1995 DRC Échézeaux (no %)
Has that classy scent of ultra-fine oak that we have learned to identify as the mark of a "great" wine, but is programming like any other; the marks of finery should come from the vine, not (even partly) from the barrel. But, delicious mouthfeel, excellent in weight & balance. Not very complex, but exhibits, in a minor key, a sort of self-contained, medium-sized perfection. Reminiscent of Clarice Lispector's secret sense: "It is a pity that most of what exists with such exactitude is technically invisible to us. The good thing is that the truth comes to us like a secret sense of things. We end up guessing, confused, what perfection is."
1995 Domaine Joseph Drouhin Clos de Vougeot 13.5%
Cherry, rubber, and tertiaries. More acid than sweet before food, relatively balanced afterwards. But a little thin, without the gravitas, even the ethereal gravitas, that one might expect from a GC. Must have been tastier when the fruit was fresher. Second of two similar bottles from the cellar of someone who bought them on release.
1995 Domaine Maume Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques 13.0%
Cola, cherry, soy sauce, and tertiaries. Juicy and sappy, with delicious acidity. Very good on its own, with food it strangely declined to tango, engendering a petite morte on the sands of Marathon.
1995 DRC Échézeaux (no %)
Has that classy scent of ultra-fine oak that we have learned to identify as the mark of a "great" wine, but is programming like any other; the marks of finery should come from the vine, not (even partly) from the barrel. But, delicious mouthfeel, excellent in weight & balance. Not very complex, but exhibits, in a minor key, a sort of self-contained, medium-sized perfection. Reminiscent of Clarice Lispector's secret sense: "It is a pity that most of what exists with such exactitude is technically invisible to us. The good thing is that the truth comes to us like a secret sense of things. We end up guessing, confused, what perfection is."
Oswaldo Costa
Oswaldo Costa
2009 Wind Gap Gap’s Crown and Griffin Lair Vineyards Sonoma Coast 12.5%
Lovely strawberry/raspberry, stems and spice. Expressively tasty, before and after food, with fine weight and balance. Seemingly caught at an ideal point of young adulthood, this seems like a very Burgundian example of Sonoma Coast, with a serious stemmy backbone to back up the cheery populist glad handing. Wish more Burgs were like this, without an ounce of entitlement, as Obama said of Biden.
2009 Wind Gap Woodruff Vineyard Santa Cruz Mountains 12.5%
Another attractive aroma, though less expressive and layered. Pleasingly stemmy, but more acidic in the front end and more bitter in the back end than the above, with a touch of toasted wood. To my surprise, Marcia liked this better, as being somehow fresher, I can only presume in a Huck Finn vein, but I found it relatively disjointed and gangly, possibly in a Huck Finn vein.
Lovely strawberry/raspberry, stems and spice. Expressively tasty, before and after food, with fine weight and balance. Seemingly caught at an ideal point of young adulthood, this seems like a very Burgundian example of Sonoma Coast, with a serious stemmy backbone to back up the cheery populist glad handing. Wish more Burgs were like this, without an ounce of entitlement, as Obama said of Biden.
2009 Wind Gap Woodruff Vineyard Santa Cruz Mountains 12.5%
Another attractive aroma, though less expressive and layered. Pleasingly stemmy, but more acidic in the front end and more bitter in the back end than the above, with a touch of toasted wood. To my surprise, Marcia liked this better, as being somehow fresher, I can only presume in a Huck Finn vein, but I found it relatively disjointed and gangly, possibly in a Huck Finn vein.
Sharon Bowman
Sharon Bowman
These are pinot noir?
Oswaldo Costa
Oswaldo Costa
Indeed, sorry for the opossum omission.
Jeff Grossman
Jeff Grossman
You were just playing porto with us, eh?
kirk wallace
kirk wallace
Or perhaps O is just Brag'ing?