TN: In 'The Kitchen' (June 30, 2015)

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
attendees: Jay + Arnold, Suzanne + Kenny, Salil, Lisa, Jeff

Prior to the leap-second. We drink. Tock.

Prior to Jay's birthday. We drink. But Jay arrives at the table bedraggled and logy. He bravely stays a while then folds his tent and goes home. We drink.

The food was quite good - fresh cool peapod slaw, luscious steak tartare, tangy beef and veal "leftover" dumplings, crispy salty veal schnitzel. Jay later told us that he met the chef on the way out of the restaurant: he was also sick and not working today. That means the food will be even better when we return?

Dauvissat 2007 Chablis 1er "La Forest" - perfect bottle: seashells, wax, richly glyceral but just a scant hint of apricot ripeness

Vatan 2008 Sancerre "Clos la Neore" - the hits keep coming: tingly, crisp, powerful and complicated aromatics, a hint of chalkiness just like the chevres made nearby, excellent

Hirtzberger 2010 Hochrain Riesling Smaragd - why is there a marca registrada next to "Smaragd"?, despite the legal frivolity on the label the wine is really good: tangy, chalky, face-powder, "so much dry extract!" -Suzanne, a late note of sweetness puts a bow on it

Alzinger 2004 Gruner Veltliner Loibner Steinertal Smaragd - rather riper than the preceding whites, a little flat, much intensity but not too interesting

Bod. Palacio 1981 Rioja Reserva "Glorioso" - the nose is maderized and Jay is disappointed but Lisa suggests a little patience... well-chosen: about a half hour later this has revived quite a bit, the nose is still marginal but there is pomegranate fruit and even some sweetness in the palate, also hints of underbrush and fading leaves

Karl Lawrence 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve "Herb Lamb Vineyard" - a staunch representative of its category, pleasurable

Lapierre 2007 Morgon "MMVII" "Cuvee Marcel Lapierre" - another wow bottle: just passed the cusp from primary to secondary flavors, pure and clean and crisp

Pinon 1990 Vouvray "Cuvee Botrytis" - corked

Although we had dessert (I had a fine textbook affogato) we declined to open the 375 of sauternes. Just not enough capacity left this evening.
 
The Pinon was corked?

Well, that's annoying. I thought it was just tight when I poured it early on and before I threw in the towel and went home to shiver in bed and pop immodium for the next 24 hours.

A few corrections:
1990 Pinon Cuvee Botrytis
2004 Alzinger

I liked the Karl Lawrence quite a bit more than you.
 
Thanks, I knew I did not have the full name of the Pinon. The Alzinger vintage was a typo. The KL was very good but perhaps your in-glass blend with Imodium gave it that something ExLax extra.
 
What, you didn't try the sherry? I'm shocked.

I enjoyed the Alzinger a great deal, perhaps my favorite of the whites. Really precise and minty with air, and became more savoury and smoky as the night went on. The Hirtzberger (Hochrain, as Z notes) was also lovely, though very youthful and primary.
 
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