Chenin that was and will be

R

Rahsaan

Rahsaan
2009 Christian Chaussard Coteaux-du-Loir Le Briseau
A bit of hollow caramel and perhaps past whatever was its prime? Still, there is pleasure to be had if one looks closely and appreciates the work style.

2007 Stephane Cossais Montlouis Le Volagré
Very flattering from the beginning. Lively, fresh, round and pleasant. And easy to like. Plus, very easy to drink!

Obviously both of these men were finished way too soon, and their work will soon leave us. More than a pity.

But there is always new wine. And while it may not be the newest, I had never heard of 2011 Clément Baraut Savennières Roche aux Moines before tonight. But will be looking for more. Firm structured crisp wine, but with plenty of textured layers befitting the fine vineyard. This was decanted in a restaurant and blossomed over 30-45 minutes, but I'm sure it has more in store upon closer inspection.
 
2009 seems a bit young to be calling a wine past its prime, but without having tasted, what do I know?
 
I drank an excellent vouvray by a producer i was unfamiar with - and off of a montgomery county wine list! 2008 Vincent Carême Vouvray Le Clos - ever hear of it?
 
Clément Baraut was oenologue in Anjou and adviced many organic estates. After, he worked with Baudouin and make a joint-venture. Now, he's renting vineyards and is buying grappes. In 2010-2012, he was the "new kid of the block" in Paris and in the RVF. Now, it's more quiet...
 
originally posted by maureen:
I drank an excellent vouvray by a producer i was unfamiar with - and off of a montgomery county wine list! 2008 Vincent Carême Vouvray Le Clos - ever hear of it?
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Yes. Supposedly one of the new folks in Vouvray turning heads, but the couple of bottlings I've tried have left me wanting. I'm not a fan of Chenin that sees oak, albeit a relatively light touch.
 
originally posted by pab:
In 2010-2012, he was the "new kid of the block" in Paris and in the RVF. Now, it's more quiet...
Click to expand...

Is it quiet because people began doubting the quality of the wines, or just because early hype cannot last very long?

The wine was nowhere near as flattering as the Cossais on the same table. But, I figured that was largely a function of the vineyard and it seemed like the Roche aux Moines would need more time to reveal whatever it had.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
2007 Stephane Cossais Montlouis Le Volagré
Very flattering from the beginning. Lively, fresh, round and pleasant. And easy to like. Plus, very easy to drink!
Click to expand...

Interesting. I've not had the 2007. The 2008 tasted several times has always been this way: want more. Then, on July 4th with a bunch of winos, someone brought the 2005, and it was utterly different—leesy to a fault, I just wanted to swirl it all away; swirl, air, air, air, air, please go away lees, let me find the wine beneath. Reminded me a bit of 1997 Clos Rougeard Brézé when it's being a dick.
 
A 1997 Chateau d'Epiré Savennières Cuvée Spéciale opened last night had given up the ghost, with a bitter oxidative finish that pretty much ruined it. I still have a few left, so I hope other bottles make a better showing, but I really shouldn't have held them as long as I have.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by pab:
In 2010-2012, he was the "new kid of the block" in Paris and in the RVF. Now, it's more quiet...
Click to expand...

Is it quiet because people began doubting the quality of the wines, or just because early hype cannot last very long?
Click to expand...
50% for each.
The big news for Savennières, is that Richard Leroy is running a "fermage" of 32 ares since january 15 : "un jardin".
 
originally posted by pab:
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by pab:
In 2010-2012, he was the "new kid of the block" in Paris and in the RVF. Now, it's more quiet...
Click to expand...

Is it quiet because people began doubting the quality of the wines, or just because early hype cannot last very long?
Click to expand...
50% for each.
The big news for Savennières, is that Richard Leroy is running a "fermage" of 32 ares since january 15 : "un jardin".
Click to expand...

For the non-metrically inclined among us, 32 ares = 34,000 square feet or so. A garden indeed.
 
originally posted by Sharon Bowman:
originally posted by Rahsaan:
2007 Stephane Cossais Montlouis Le Volagré
Very flattering from the beginning. Lively, fresh, round and pleasant. And easy to like. Plus, very easy to drink!
Click to expand...

Interesting. I've not had the 2007. The 2008 tasted several times has always been this way: want more. Then, on July 4th with a bunch of winos, someone brought the 2005, and it was utterly different—leesy to a fault, I just wanted to swirl it all away; swirl, air, air, air, air, please go away lees, let me find the wine beneath. Reminded me a bit of 1997 Clos Rougeard Brézé when it's being a dick.
Click to expand...

I've never had much Cossais so didn't have many expectations. Which was all the better for such an attractive wine. The server counseled me that it would need lots of air, but I didn't find that to be the case at all. Fun from the first sip. Although I suppose I can't address the counterfactual of how much more fun it would have been with even more air!

And FWIW, in this case I think the leesy elevage aspect helped make this 2007 show round and friendly, because the fruit flavors were right there as well and the overall structural presentation was quite harmonious.

Your 2005 was obviously in a different place. Although since he was such a new vigneron, there also the issue of his learning curve and evolution from vintage to vintage.
 
originally posted by Cole Kendall:
originally posted by pab:
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by pab:
In 2010-2012, he was the "new kid of the block" in Paris and in the RVF. Now, it's more quiet...
Click to expand...

Is it quiet because people began doubting the quality of the wines, or just because early hype cannot last very long?
Click to expand...
50% for each.
The big news for Savennières, is that Richard Leroy is running a "fermage" of 32 ares since january 15 : "un jardin".
Click to expand...

For the non-metrically inclined among us, 32 ares = 34,000 square feet or so. A garden indeed.
Click to expand...

This is about 1/3 of an hectare and thus just under a tenth of an acre. Not even a large garden, really.
 
originally posted by kirk wallace:
??some wires crossed here. 1 hectare (100 ares) = ~2.4 acres; so 1/3 of 1 hectare is more like eight tenths of an acre.
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Old eyes, misplaced decimal. Square feet doesn't do it for me. I plant my garden inch by inch and row by row, as Arlo Guthrie sings when he does his anti-metric routine.
 
Cossais studied winemaking at the Clos Rougeard (1999-2000) and stayed close to the praxis of the two brothers (sulfur & wood for a long cellaring). First vintage was the 2001. He died in july 2009 and the 2007 vintage has been botteled by his friends Frantz Saumon.
 
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