California saga

MarkS

Mark Svereika
A recent trip brought me to the shores of the Golden State, and while I tried my darndest, could not work out a suitable time for an offline with some of the board denizens. But, I did get a chance to drink some interesting things and did have a chance to meet up with another Mark S, and that is a good thing.

Impressions:

Laetitia
So much of the area North of Santa Barbara to Paso Robles is so built up now, with housing and vineyards, that it is difficult to pick out a couple of wineries to visit if you are simple 'passing through'. So, it was hard to pass up the chance to taste at Laetitia, which is right on the 101 Freeway. I've heard of their wines before but never tasted them, so it was an easy call. I had two sparklers there which were correct and decent, and several pinot noirs, which were alright but with a little too much evident oak. My favorite was the 2013 Whole Cluster, which seemed to have more going on in it, and not simply because of the stem inclusion. I think if I saw these on a restaurant list, I would probably order a glass, but I don't wish to stock my cellar with them.

Further down, I wanted to see what the fuss was with Tercero Cellars, but the tasting room in the tasting room only town of Los Olivos was closed. A lot of other places were closed in this strange place, the only thing missing were tumbleweeds passing through the only street in town along with a background track of the Good, the bad, and the Ugly. Feeling dejected and wondering why I bothered stopping in this one-horse town, I headed to the nearby saloon (The Wine Merchant Cafe) and perused the shelves. While talking with Matt, he offered a sample or two of what they had open, a Presqu'ile Sauvignon Blanc which was very grassy, fresh and racy and a Barnett Nebbiolo 2010 which shows varietal character but with much more fruit accessibility and subdued tannins from Piedmont examples. If the TSA allowed carry on wine, I would have brought back a bottle. Ah, but what to drink for tonight? Matt thought I might like the Martian Ranch Tempranillo 'Gravitas' 2011 but man, trying it in the hotel room was like drinking an over-the-top Argentinian malbec: seriously dark and rich, thick and one-dimensional but with decent acidity at least. It does share plum, smoke, and leather with its namesake grape, but still, at 14.1%, there is a lot of extract to work through and very drying tannins. A botttle to cellar for another 5-6 years, at least.

Further down the coast, in San Diego County, got a chance to taste at the office park that is the location of Vesper Vineyards, and I am glad I did. They are making some interesting wines that far south. The day I went they were tasting a grenache rose (which was pinot gris white), a sauvignon blanc, the Guejito white blend, a carignan, and a syrah. The only one I didn't care for was the syrah, but the others were all lovely and something I would like to revisit.

To top things off, I met up the first time with another namesake Mark S who shared a lovely meal with us and brought along two bottles: a Stolpman, Trousseau, Ballard Canyon, 2014 and a Dirty & Rowdy, Mourvedre, Skinner White Oaks Flats Vineyard, 2013. Both were interesting and very good, my nod going to the trousseau which was varietally spot on and a joy to drink. I am not used to way D&R plays with mourvedre yet, and thought it a little rustic and simple, but the flavors could easily work with food (and did) and this was enjoyable, but this night I think the Stolpman outshown it. Thank you Mark!

And so, another California chapter winds down. Until next time...
 
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I resemble the last part of that remark. The Trousseau is really a fun wine; I don't think we gave the Dirty and Rowdy enough time - those wines really transform after about three hours open.

A pleasure to enjoy a nice meal with you and your family, as well as to put a face to the name.

[lurk]
 
Laeticia began life as Maison Deutz, the California outpost of the Champagne house. Winemaker Christian Roguenant got things started there. When Deutz tired of selling sparking wine below cost, they sold the property and Christian moved over to Edna Valley and worked with various Niven family projects (Tangent, Baileyana, et al) as well as with Rosenthal Winery down in Malibu ever since. The current Laetitia regime is doing some cool things -- good choice if you were just doing one visit in the area, but I might have considered Talley Vineyards instead (but that's just me).

Martian Ranch has been in a bit of a transition with regard to their winemaking. The 2011Tempranillo was made in the Mike Roth (Lo-Fi Wines) era and was intended to be a bigger-frame Ribeiro-inspired version. Philippe Armenier is now in charge of enology as well as viticulture and I'd expect the wines to show a little more finesse in the future.

-Eden (lotsa interesting stuff going on in the central coast these days)
 
Thanks for the update, Eden. Would have been nice to have shared a bottle with you and your encyclopedic knowledge.
 
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