TN: Goat Balls and Brass Bristles (July 30, 2015)

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
attendees: Robert, Zach, Kirk, Sharon, Don+Melissa, Jeff

We're at the Good Fork and having a good time. Rather than fuss with the heat and the bloodthirsty neighbors we are given the back porch all to ourselves. I like it back here!

I'm sure you can tell from the title of this little report that someone brought Frankenwein and someone else prompted an urgent discussion on how to clean an outdoor grill. We also had some travel talk (Berlin, Portland), eating habits, changing jobs, we read a couple pages of "Where's Arno?" (Kirk found him first: his beret was visible behind the pile of andouilettes), and so on.

We each ordered two starters and a main, giving ourselves some time to spend with the meager beverages we had on hand:

Schlossmuhlenhof 2010 Scheurebe Kabinett - 4 297 023 010 11, off the list, tangy, really tangy, instantly recognizable as scheurebe, "personality-ful" -Jeff, too much RS for Sharon though

Agrapart NV Champagne Brut "Complantee" - Grand Cru Gemischter Satz: made from a field blend of six grapes, this show great complexity and depth, the acidity is adequate, the fizz is gentle, it's actually kinda hard to pin down but it won the Thunderbird award so maybe others like it more than I do

George Laval NV Champagne Rose Brut Nature 1er "Cumieres" - disg 2013-10-31, Siri says this is pinot meunier and pinot noir picked 'bien mure', crisp and clean, very low sulfur, I enjoy this except for the finish which has that flat metallic note I often get from low-sulfur wines

Weltner 2013 Rodelseer Schwanleite Sylvaner Alte Reben Trocken GG - chalky, tannic or just otherwise gritty, this is called-out as obviously sylvaner by Winegrrl (I don't think I could do that) but this is more piercing than I need right now

Clos Saron 2013 "Tickled Pink" - more wacky cepage: syrah, graciano, and verdelho co-fermented with skins and stems, then barrel-aged and it's... wow, jangly, zingy, Jura-like

Dom. Vincent Careme 2008 Vouvray "Le Clos" - subtly tutti-frutti, gives the impression of sweetness, very full

Dom. Lemaire-Fournier 2004 Vouvray "La Coudraie" - the nose has a strong ashtray smell that is off-putting (and becoming rather uncommon in this mostly non-smoking city), the mouth does not show the same flaw but it shows no particular charm, either; the story goes that she bought the domaine with her winnings from a lottery and that she changed professions when she won it again

Maximin Grunhauser 2002 Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett - 3 536 014-3-03, thank goodness, it's been a rough night so far but this makes up for it: pretty, secondary, broad, suave, delicious

Donnhoff 2013 Norheimer Kirschheck Riesling Spatlese - classic Donnhoff zing, lime leaves, accurately ripe, excellent with the octopus ragu

Ganevat 2013 VdF "Cuvee Madelan" "Nature" - oh, look, it's the French label (you can tell it's a French label because there's a shaggy-haired naked lady on it); the wine is weird, however, thick and monolithic and rather more like bought-in Morgon than anything else

Ganevat 2005 Cotes du Jura "La Combe" "Sous la Roche" Rotalier - why are these labels so hard to read?, I think it's pinot noir; anyway, here's Ganevat's own and it's much better: subtly twangy, stylish, very yum

Ecard 2006 Savigny-les-Beaunes 1er "Les Gravains" - this is tasting rather acidic and thin, is there Jura in this bottle?, perhaps this still needs time asleep (NB. when I get home I find a note from 2012 that says the wine needed 48 hours to open, oh well)

Thevenet 2009 Regnie "Grain et Granite" - despite much dissing of 2009 Beaujolais around the table this is rich and fruity and voluminous with enough acidity to work with food or by itself, yum

Dom. des Petit Quarts 1996 Bonnezeaux 1er Trie "Le Malabe" - "liquid peaches" - Kirk, this is lovely wine, the sweetness has receded a bit and the flavors have started to diversify and harmonize

Zoltan Demeter 2009 Furmint Tokaji "Lapis" - whoops, why is this dry furmint varietal coming around at the end of the meal? it is what it says it is but it's hard to give it a fair tasting now
 
originally posted by Robert Dentice:


Thanks for the great notes.

The Weltner Sylvaner really opened up later in the evening and it is a GG (Grosses Gewächs).

Good to know. My notes said GG but when I googled it all I saw was 1G. I will fix.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
George Laval NV Champagne Rose Brut Nature 1er "Cumieres" - disg 2013-10-31, Siri says this is pinot meunier and pinot noir picked 'bien mure', crisp and clean, very low sulfur, I enjoy this except for the finish which has that flat metallic note I often get from low-sulfur wines

I put that down to its being a rosé de saignée.

Great notes, Jeff; thanks for keeping tabs.

That room was great, as well, and no mosquito carnage!

I'm glad you didn't mention the gross, flawed NV Fallet-Prévostat Extra-Brut (but now I just did).
 
Thanks for this. I had a great time.

The remainders of the Petit Quarts rounded into form over the next two days, and were just a bit tired by the third.
 
originally posted by Sharon Bowman:
I put that down to its being a rosé de saignée.
Interesting. I have not made that connection before. I'll have to watch for it.

I'm glad you didn't mention the gross, flawed NV Fallet-Prévostat Extra-Brut (but now I just did).
I think that got clobbered before it made it to my glass.
 
Always nice to see a note on mid-'90s Godineau. You see fewer and fewer of them around. I think I still have one more left of that '96 black label. Always shows well.
 
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