Michael G. Hanchard
Michael G. Hanchard
Consumed over two days. On a whim, opened about an hour before a dinner of polenta, baby kale, a mushroom assortment, Castelbelbo and Robiola cheeses. The first whiff was a tangle of tar, some rough alcohol intrusion, anise and sour cherry. The appearance: turbinado sugar color at the rim, with the magenta-cherry color that is a giveaway for nebbiolo from the Langhe. After an hour the angry alcohol on the nose blew off, with tar and oak slowly giving way to cherry, violet, lavender and chamomile tea. On the palate, a lively acidity helped cut through the not so great polenta which, when folded over into cheese, kale and mushrooms, was a satisfying combination. More sips to accompany the end of the meal and the remainder of the cheese, this time with water crackers and Miele Millefiori from Alagna Valsesia (Alto Piemonte). Drank this wine a year ago alongside 1998 Oddero Barolo Ravera di Castiglione and 1998 Einaudi Barolo normale.
A year ago, I thought the Cascina Francia clearly superior to the other two, with the 1998 Einaudi brought along as a vintage starter wine for the evening—nothing more---, but my companions thought the Oddero was the equal of the Conterno, if not its superior. On its own the second time around, the Conterno seemed more evolved, but still with that beautiful combination of balance, composure and haunting quality that the very best traditionally made nebbiolo based wines (not just Barolos) possess. Though 1998 was not initially considered a great vintage by many pundits, the 1998 Cascina Francia is a small reminder that we drink wine, not vintage charts. For my taste, this wine is just a notch below some of my absolute favorite Barolos: 1978 Scarpa Tettimora ,1989 Aldo Conterno Cicala, 1978 Giacosa Collina Rionda, 1999 Elio Grasso Vigna Chiniera. Ready to drink, but will hold for a few years.
A year ago, I thought the Cascina Francia clearly superior to the other two, with the 1998 Einaudi brought along as a vintage starter wine for the evening—nothing more---, but my companions thought the Oddero was the equal of the Conterno, if not its superior. On its own the second time around, the Conterno seemed more evolved, but still with that beautiful combination of balance, composure and haunting quality that the very best traditionally made nebbiolo based wines (not just Barolos) possess. Though 1998 was not initially considered a great vintage by many pundits, the 1998 Cascina Francia is a small reminder that we drink wine, not vintage charts. For my taste, this wine is just a notch below some of my absolute favorite Barolos: 1978 Scarpa Tettimora ,1989 Aldo Conterno Cicala, 1978 Giacosa Collina Rionda, 1999 Elio Grasso Vigna Chiniera. Ready to drink, but will hold for a few years.
