Last night VLM decided to gather a few dozen of of his closest friends - I mean customers - and organize a dinner around the 2008 vintage of Louis Boillot.
We started with 2013 Bachelet-Monnot Chassagne-Montrachet, which was lovely bright focused and floral, and definitely benefited from time to warm up in the glass. Although VLM seemed more excited about it than I was, probably because he is more interested in White Burgundy than I am.
Then we moved to 2008 Boillot Gevrey Les Evocelles, which was a bit chunky and blocky compared to the wines that followed. But it was a frank expression and has a place in this world.
The 2008 Boillot Volnay Les Brouillards was lovely. The firm suave grip that I'm slowly understanding as a feature of this wine across vintages. But the structure is not stern, it is suave and seductive and reminds you that it is Volnay.
The apex was 2008 Boillot Gevrey Les Champonnets, which was the finest of the trio, with such clarity of flavors and textures, but still retaining integrity and presence. It is also worth noting that this was deemed a perfect match for the accompanying course of lamb with spaetzle. Being a non-lamb eater, I was served a delicious fish dish. But my nearby dining companions took such pity on me for having a less-than-perfect pairing that they strongly encouraged me to try to spaetzle, and I too could (briefly) share in their revelry.
I came into the dinner optimistically suspicious about how the wines would show, having had mixed results with 08s recently. The wines did move around a bit over time in the glass, so clearly they are not singing and open for business. But, there is pleasure to be had. And we had pleasure.
We started with 2013 Bachelet-Monnot Chassagne-Montrachet, which was lovely bright focused and floral, and definitely benefited from time to warm up in the glass. Although VLM seemed more excited about it than I was, probably because he is more interested in White Burgundy than I am.
Then we moved to 2008 Boillot Gevrey Les Evocelles, which was a bit chunky and blocky compared to the wines that followed. But it was a frank expression and has a place in this world.
The 2008 Boillot Volnay Les Brouillards was lovely. The firm suave grip that I'm slowly understanding as a feature of this wine across vintages. But the structure is not stern, it is suave and seductive and reminds you that it is Volnay.
The apex was 2008 Boillot Gevrey Les Champonnets, which was the finest of the trio, with such clarity of flavors and textures, but still retaining integrity and presence. It is also worth noting that this was deemed a perfect match for the accompanying course of lamb with spaetzle. Being a non-lamb eater, I was served a delicious fish dish. But my nearby dining companions took such pity on me for having a less-than-perfect pairing that they strongly encouraged me to try to spaetzle, and I too could (briefly) share in their revelry.
I came into the dinner optimistically suspicious about how the wines would show, having had mixed results with 08s recently. The wines did move around a bit over time in the glass, so clearly they are not singing and open for business. But, there is pleasure to be had. And we had pleasure.