Littorai

Sharon Bowman

Sharon Bowman
So, yesterday night after a hearty bit of tippling, I ordered (quickly, in conversation, flipping open the list) a wine I thought was a pinot noir, which was actually a chardonnay. I mean, hell, you don't think that a 2001 Littorai Mays Canyon is going to be a white. Yet it was, and it was lovely.

But I was frustrated all the same, because I love Ted Lemon's reds, and I wish to try one with age, which I have never been able to. My first ever was drunk in Jenner, at the mouth of the Russian River, and the memory is indelible.

Anyone else drinking these wines?

ETA: In 2008 there were forest fires where he was, and I recall also drinking a rosé made just for that year because the skins were so smoky it was impossible to do red. I love such stories. And it was a curious wine, precursor maybe to future pale California rosés; drunk at the bar at Union Square Café.
 
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A couple of years ago, I bought a stash of older Littorai Pinot Noir, going back to 1993 (Ted's first vintage in California). Most of the 1993s were pristine and had unfolded in a very wonderful direction. The wines have edged up in price but I'd certainly rather have them than some of the random 3rd tier Burgundies that many retailers tout these days as the "affordable" Pinot Noir.
 
I visited the winery just before Labor Day. Ted wasn’t there but we toured with one of his staff. They had very little wine available, so impressions on the current releases are limited. The ’12 Les Larmes is a sleeper somewhat lean but very approachable. The ’13 Savoy pinot is a beauty, top to bottom. The ’13 pinots from Roman (Anderson Valley) and Haven (Sonoma Coast) were very tightly wound and not giving very much they seem like they’re built for the long haul, with the Haven in particular quite brooding and structured.

Given the price points, I will need to rely on the kindness of others to follow the single-vineyard offerings. I have a bottle of the Savoy that I’ll hold for your next visit to the Midwest.

That ’08 vin gris was some delicious stuff. There was an Anderson Valley red that year - the Les Larmes, which I understand included all the single-vineyard fruit.

Also, given your interest in Mays Canyon you should seek out the Porter-Bass pinot (or chardonnay, for that matter) from Ceritas.
 
originally posted by Ross Massey:
A couple of years ago, I bought a stash of older Littorai Pinot Noir, going back to 1993 (Ted's first vintage in California). Most of the 1993s were pristine and had unfolded in a very wonderful direction. The wines have edged up in price but I'd certainly rather have them than some of the random 3rd tier Burgundies that many retailers tout these days as the "affordable" Pinot Noir.

Wow, that's so cool. I will continue to look....
 
originally posted by fillay:
I visited the winery just before Labor Day. Ted wasn’t there but we toured with one of his staff. They had very little wine available, so impressions on the current releases are limited. The ’12 Les Larmes is a sleeper somewhat lean but very approachable. The ’13 Savoy pinot is a beauty, top to bottom. The ’13 pinots from Roman (Anderson Valley) and Haven (Sonoma Coast) were very tightly wound and not giving very much they seem like they’re built for the long haul, with the Haven in particular quite brooding and structured.

Given the price points, I will need to rely on the kindness of others to follow the single-vineyard offerings. I have a bottle of the Savoy that I’ll hold for your next visit to the Midwest.

That ’08 vin gris was some delicious stuff. There was an Anderson Valley red that year - the Les Larmes, which I understand included all the single-vineyard fruit.

Also, given your interest in Mays Canyon you should seek out the Porter-Bass pinot (or chardonnay, for that matter) from Ceritas.

Excellent! Thanks for the info. I'd love to share some Littorai in Chicago. And I do really like Ceritas.
 
I went to the Acidity, Alcohol and Aging seminar at last years In Pursuit of Balance with Ted Lemmon, Josh Jensen and the winemaker from Mount Eden

The wines poured are below (this was last year):

Calera Wine Company, Jensen Pinot Noir, Mt. Harlan 1997
Calera Wine Company, Mills Pinot Noir, Mt. Harlan 1997

Littorai Wines, Savoy Vineyard Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley 1997
Littorai Wines, One Acre Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley 1997

Mount Eden Vineyards, Estate Pinot Noir, Santa Cruz Mountains 2003
Mount Eden Vineyards, Estate Pinot Noir, Santa Cruz Mountains 2012

I have had many older Caleras and was excited to taste the Littorai wines. They were good but still very much Pinot from a warm climate. 1997 was a very hot year and the abv were well above 14%.

I would like to try more. If you have not tried older Calera I would highly recommend them.
 
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