Light Winery Tourism While in Barcelona

Marc Hanes

Marc Hanes
Recently married, the wife and I are attempting to piece together our planned budget honeymoon in Barcelona for late May. While I do not in any way want it to be the focus of the trip, I would not mind visiting local wine regions. That said...

1. We may need to book hotel and flights together to get best pricing and not sure how many times I want to pack and unpack during trip. Thus, it may be preferable to "day trip" rather than, say, visit Priorat and spend the night.

2. I really, really would prefer not to chance driving after a tipple, especially in a foreign land with foreign driving regulations.

3. I naturally would prefer to visit more unique or interesting wineries.

So, it seems like a "wine tour" would be best advised rather than try to get self-directed winery appointments over the course of a day or two. Unless someone has a idea I have not yet considered.

Any recommendations on tours not involving Freixenet?

I found this, sounds vaguely promising. Of course, there is no pricing.


As always, thanks in advance for any counsel or advice.

Marc
 
P.S. Any other Barcelona recommendations could be helpful, of particular interest to me would be unique wine stores or a place where I can score Cantillon Belgian beer (just saying).

FWIW, we are already heavily in cc debt and want to make this a fun but not necessarily "luxurious" trip. Lots of walking. Lots of walking.

P.P.S. I did use the WD search function but most info here on Barcelona seems to be from 2011 so not sure if there's newer 411 of note for the tourist visitor.

Victor seemed keen on Spanish Trails wine tours. And everyone uniformly speaks well of Monvinic so that may be one of our few "go strong to the hoop" nights out.
 
originally posted by Jay Miller:
Congratulations Marc!

Sorry I can't help with the actual question.

Thanks Jay, hope to see the usual suspects soon either at CWS or maybe a Jersey BYO...
 
Oh, man... what a great town!

If you want to buy some bottles for yourself, Vila Vinotecca is a must. Lots of Catalan producers and interesting, under-the-radar stuff from all across northern Spain really. Located in the old Gothic neighborhood, which you'll want to go to anyhow just for walking around.

In addition to Monvinic, I would add Viblioteca, a little wine bar in Gracia, a little off the beaten path. Very good.

Quimet y Quimet is overloaded with tourists and yet still worth going in terms of great bites for the price. Near the Poble Sec or El Raval neighborhoods as I recall.

The actual market just off of La Rambla is fantastic. On the right days, there are lots of small, very good spots to grab a bite that are inexpensive.

For a more polished take on tapas, Tapac 24 is a good spot. Local wines, inexpensive, but put together by a chef at a bigger name spot in town.

Cafe de l'Academia has some great food, and it's owned by a gentleman who also has a winery outside of town. His flagship wine is a bit oaky for my taste, but his other is quite good.

La Cova Fumada comes highly recommend from my chef/business partner. He and his wife were just there in October, and he can't speak highly enough about it. Simple, rustic, traditional Catalan mom and pop fare. Kind of on the outskirts of town as I understand it but not hard to get to.

If you have any interest in architecture, La Pedrera and Parc Gueil are must-visits. You can easily kill half a day walking around Parc Gueil and checking out the views of the city from there. Both designed by Gaudi but far less crowds/lines than Segrada Familia. I also really enjoyed the Catalan art museum, which was formerly a palace atop Montjuic. The views alone are worth going. There are some nice spots to wander around near there as well -- the Olympic park, a few nature-y walks, etc.

Congrats on the marriage!
 
Sez smart, knowledgeable lurker friend:

he should go to Ale & Hop in El Born for the best beers around. Plus often they have several or all the Cantillon beverages. And definitely Bar Brutal and Anima del Vi for natch wine. Bar del Pla for stellar "tapas" and good wines. At Bar Brutal he can ask the peeps there about local wineries that don't suck. Some of the workers there also make wine, natch natch, and will help organize transportation if he is kind and they are in decent moods.
 
Thanks to all those who have chimed in so far, much appreciated and noted. And thanks as well for the well wishes, we are very happy together.

Is Barcelona a town where reservations are required? It seems from a quick glance that many places are smaller and it would be too bad to make an effort to visit an establishment only to have them filled for the night.
 
Congratulations, Marc. You've got some very good recommendations here. I'll put in my $0.02 for Monvinic, which is just an incredible place. I found that even the most casual eating in Barna is very good. A bocadillo de jamon Iberico (ham sandwich) purchased on the run from a hole in the wall can prove to be transcendentally good. And, yes, the architecture and art there is not to be missed.

Mark Lipton
 
Congrats. Tons of great recs in this thread.

The days of real deals from booking flights and hotels together are pretty much over. If either of you enjoy cooking, particularly seafood, then getting an apartment is a must. Rental apartments (via AirBnB or the other usual suspects) are usually pretty cheap in Barcelona, and all of the ones I've had have had pretty well-equipped kitchens. Movinic, Vila Viniteca, L'Anima del Vi all have excellent wine to sell, and the two non-shitshow parts of the Boqueria are the fish/seafood area and the open air farmers area just north of the middle of the market.

Then you can go out for gin-tonics at 1am, which is apparently what all the cool Catalan kids do these days. I recommend Xixbar, near Poble Sec. (Ale&Hop is awesome, though it will close early most days).

In the outer Born, L'Anima del Vi, El Soplo, and Bar Brutal are all excellent wine bars. L'Anima is my favorite of the three, but reasonable people can disagree.
 
My wife and I have returned from a delightfully interesting and relaxing eight full days in Barcelona. We received many recommendations from a multitude of sources and am grateful to all who shared their thoughts. It is a lovely city and I would recommend a visit to any who have not done so.
 
originally posted by Marc Hanes:
My wife and I have returned from a delightfully interesting and relaxing eight full days in Barcelona. We received many recommendations from a multitude of sources and am grateful to all who shared their thoughts. It is a lovely city and I would recommend a visit to any who have not done so.

Sounds like you had a great time. How about a report on some of your favs? I'll be there mid July.
 
Hello Jason,

These are some brief impressions. We went to places which run the gamut from local hole in the wall to higher end. My wife and I agreed that there was quality to be found at all tiers, just depends on personal preference for what one likes in food.

Curiously, our overall favorite meal was at an Italian restaurant called Bacaro, which is on a side street not far from the Mercat de La Boqueria. Casual, well run and it seemed to be habituated by locals, likely rare for the physical location. The pasta dishes were super fresh as was the fish of the day and calamari, prices fair, just a satisfying meal all around. Had we had time we would have returned.

We went to Monvinic on Wednesday night and the place was dead. Got there at 8:30 PM and pretty much closed the joint. It is a pretty space and the food is good plus, however, the one gripe I would have is that multiple side dishes were served cold and it seemed that the kitchen was not on top of their game in organizing that stuff. That said, had a very tasty stuffed duck and warmed chocolate dessert. The sommelier Bernat was very nice and helpful. We scored their final bottle of 1998 Wendouree Shiraz-Malbec at a fair price given the wine's rarity. Followed up with a 2006 Valentini Montepulciano which needed a lot of air to get going. I would recommend Monvinic but don't expect something like a "Danny Meyer" type place experience.

I really liked the gritty vibe of La Cova Fumada in La Barceloneta waterfront, they did not even have a sign out front. Very authentic and fresh food. If in this area worth a visit.

El Xampanyet was okay, nothing special and really was borderline too touristy for us and we were fully enjoying being "touristic" as they say there. Food was good, that's about it.

We only had drinks at Bar Brutal so cannot comment on the food. Their wine list is superb and worth a visit for that. We had a 1998 Jamet Cote-Rotie for not too much $$$ simply based on its rarity but there were pages of current release wines which all would have been great choices.

El Mercader de l'Eixample was slightly disappointing, was expecting something more inventive and it was kind of pricey for what you got plus the service was nothing to write home about.

If you go to La Boqueria we really did enjoy Bar Pinoxto and the food was fresh and delicious and worth the wait to get served. We agreed this was one of our favorite places. We did not get to visit El Quim, another similar place recommended to us in La Boqueria.

Tapas 24 was actually better than expected, long wait to get in though and the crowd was mostly tourists. But the food was good and just off center enough to differentiate it from more standard tapas places. The steak tartar served in a warmed avocado was outstanding.

Bar Cañete was good plus, was fancier than expected, very crowded. Good for people watching and if you like a higher energy vibe.

Carmelitas was another place that was good but nothing remarkable. When I say this, it is not a slam. We really did not have a bad meal the whole time in Barcelona and ate out every meal. Maybe it was a sameness of the menus we experienced over time. Only so much squid or octopus you can eat in a week.

We had a very good cannelloni at Fermi Puig made out of thinly sliced avocado and stuffed with crab meat. Quite good. This place too (very chi-chi) was dead and empty all night. Service here *was* good. Although it amused most of the dining room guests that we would hear periodic thunderous cheers from the kitchen due to the Real Madrid vs. Atletico Madrid match going on as we dined. Again, we did not mind but Meyer probably would have canned the whole kitchen staff for that, hah. It was really that loud.

If you like beer, I was on a mission to track down as much Cantillon as possible and scored some at two beer shops, Bier Cab and La Bona Pinta. The craft beer thing is growing there pretty well. Ale & Hop was another place we visited but it was ehh.

We did not make it to Quimet y Quimet but a couple we met said very nice things about it, they did note it was super crowded. We planned this trip for late May to try and avoid crowds and summer heat.

I can recommend Spanish Trails for wine tours. We had a fun day excursion to Priorat and visited three wineries. Priorat is very beautiful in a rugged way and the tour was informative and unrushed (thirteen hours). Thumbs up. We visited Pasanau, Clos Figueras (mostly for lunch as they have a nice on premise restaurant) and Clos Dominic.

We stayed in the Gracia area which was awesome. Walking distance to most any place and quieter than the old town. Air BnB apartment, affordable and added to the feel of being in Barcelona as a regular person. l'Eixample is full of high end boutique stores and high end hotels it seems.

For Gaudi, we agree that Casa Batlló was the most "complete" experience, wonderful place. Blocks from La Pedrera so both are doable in a single visit. Get tickets in advance and go as early in the morning as you can, beat the rush. Leave two hours for each visit.

If you have the time and inclination, the Botanical Garden on Montjuic is stunning and it seems to be severely overlooked. Glad we skipped touring the castle and went here instead. Walking down Montjuic with the views of the city was very nice. And we got to hear Coldplay warm up for that night's show at the Olympic Stadium (not a fan but still neat).

I am happy to answer any additional questions as I can, hope the above is of some help.
 
Very interesting!

It seems to me you're practically ready for Madrid now!

The big leagues! ;-)
 
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