Corison in NYC (Parts I, II, III and Coda)

Next, we moved on to:

2011 Corison Kronos - This comes from one of the last old-vine vineyards in Napa Valley on St. George rootstock, planted in 1971. St. George is now popular (it once wasn't, for reasons you will see immediately —>), but it only yields 1.25 tons/acre (or 2.5 to 5 in more propitious vintages/sites), as opposed to 4 to 7 tons/acre from other plants. It surrounds CC's winery on all sides and produces tiny berries. The alcohol is lower than in her other cuvées, in the 12%s and low 13%s. CC admires its viscosity and fullness, and its perfume.

This was the dude I could smell from the glass sitting far from my nose on the table. It was deep, but not in a "luxury cuvée" way; more in a complexity of fruit way. I know "complexity" is a dry word, and I'm a lush, so I'd like to call it "filigreed" or some such, but I can't find the right words. Juggling in my mind.

And, scene.

Coda:

After the tasting had ended, I joined CC, her husband, Kirk Wallace, and a member of the Skurnik team for dinner at a nearby restaurant, the NoMad. The walk over afforded a great conversation with Mr. CC about the merits or demerits of Picasso as an artist. (Ahem, Zachary Ross, take note.)

Dinner itself was a chance to talk more loosely, not only about CC's wines, but about other tangential and orthogonal topics.

I wasn't taking notes any more, so the rest was loose.

First:

2011 Emmanuel Brochet Mont Benoît - Defying its 2011 struggles, this was lovely and perked my ears up. Zippy, fabulous stuff. Only the slightest touch of the 2011 troubles; I'd like to have it again and certainly again in another vintage. Some Meunier present at the party, which, y'know, is kind of fun for the kind of party that's going down.

Then:

NV Pierre Peters Rosé - This was a hidden gem in the restaurant's cellar, and it was interesting; my first encounter therewith. However (as much as I hate to say it), my side conversation with CC sidetracked me and I have no memory of this. But to say that CC is a 99+ on the interesting conversation scale. The wine may have been a hair austere?

We then also sneaked in a Dauvissat Chablis of younger vintage (2012), which was classically framed.

And then, Kirk had brought something memorable:

1973 Chappellet Cabernet Sauvignon - Hoo, hoo! This was, as CS's from that past place and time, light on its feet and just fragrant and lithe and still young. Remarkable wine. CC started out at Chappellet, but her first vintage was 1980. She was enchanted with this. We were, too.

* For the conspiracy buffs out there, why is "coda" an anagram of "Coad"?
 
On consecutive fruit nights, a duo of young Napa Cabs from producers well-regarded in these pages, sacrificed in the name of impatient lab work. Each decanted for four or five hours in the hopes of whatever.

2012 Matthiasson Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 13.2%
90% CS, 10% Merlot. Fairly appealing ripe plum and blackberry aromas with an overlay of oak. Bright acidity, light tannins, medium body, velvety texture; the latter, and the flavor, confirming the oak. Ideally restrained structure, but the oak becomes increasingly prominent as food absorbs the other Electoral College members. All in all, found this an excellent try lamentably marred by oak (though site says
 
Had my first taste of the 2012 Stony Hill Napa Cab. Second vintage, 6 year old vines. Young and structured with impudent, if delicious, and straightforward fruit. It may not know what it's doing now, but it knows where it's going.

Pure joy tasting a new project for which I see a great future.
 
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