Jeff Grossman
Jeff Grossman
attendees: Don+Melissa, Chris+Lisa, Andrew+Jennifer, Brad, Jeff, Eden+Scott+Pierce
It is noon on a Saturday in Scotch Plains. Last night's excesses, or workday, still plod in our heads.
Bedraggled, but ever cheerful, the intrepid winos complete their pilgrimage to the land whereupon sits the Kitchen of Eden.
The framework for the gathering remains the same as last time: Eden produces magnificent victuals and we try to bring wines equal to them.
The first few dishes all tumble out onto the table as they are ready:
- a twist on the usual gougeres greeting, instead we have... hush puppies!
- deviled eggs served on an anatomically-correct plate
- then, technically, two canapes... toasted fromage fort and salmon rillettes
- and the last of the white-friendly foods... phyllo-wrapped asparagus and parmesan
The eggs were cool and creamy, more mustard than cayenne. The salmon rillettes were a mix of smoked and non-smoked fish. Only a madman turns down melted cheese on toasted bread!
And we drink:
Bergweiler 1994 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Auslese - horrendously corked
Now, a blind flight:
"A" - lots and lots of phenolic material here, obscuring the fruit, leaving only a whiff of face-powder; I like this one but others say it deteriorates with time open
=> Ch. de la Ragotiere 1999 Muscadet VV "1er Cru du Chateau"
"B" - sharper acidity , narrower palate, I say 'matchsticks' while Andrew says 'mushrooms'; universally called 'the funky one' but most enjoy it
=> Dom. de la Pepiere 1999 Muscadet "Clos des Briords"
"C" - a better-balanced wine but kinda dull; everyone's also-ran
=> Dom. Luneau-Papin 1999 Muscadet "Clos des Allees"
Fayolle 2014 Hermitage Blanc "Les Dionieres" - rich and fruity, fresh-cut straw and some Pez; but, with some air, it's getting oakier and sweeter and kinda Nutter-Butter cookie, hm
Jacques Puffeney 2013 Trousseau "Les Berangeres" - rather robust for trousseau, crisp, tannic, tangy, I had expected this to match with the strong cheese but it's a little much
Eminence Road 2014 Riesling - so different from a German riesling! Andrew says this one grew on shale and limestone, did malo, sat on its lees a while, and was bottled with no sulfites; still excellent zing and a carefully-couched bit of sweetness, great
Champalou 1996 Vouvray "La Cuvee des Fondraux" - several of us have had disappointing experiences with this maker but not this time: officially demi-sec but showing more sec-tendre today, lingering and tinglering, rounded and delicious
Bergweiler 1994 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Auslese - take two!: 09 95, golden, well-mannered, just-so tangy, nice package but really ripe
--
Now we move on to more substantial fare.
First, Eden passes a plate of stuffed zucchini, served upright with pancetta, egg, and parmesan inside. The extra zing of salty pork livens up the fleshy gourd.
Next comes the main course: Bollito Vitello, which has been simmering for hours, served with a scalliony Bernaise(?), oven-roasted potatoes, and oven-roasted carrots sprinkled with thyme and pecorino romano. Earthy, simple, substantial, wonderful food.
And if you can't find a wine to match with this:
Breton 1996 Bourgueil "Grandmont" - OMG potent nose, potent palate, this is the essence of cab franc, wow
Az. Agr. Ronchi di Giancarlo Rocca 2001 Barbaresco - typical but gentle, I'm trying to find something to say
Ch. Meylet 2010 St-Emilion Grand Cru "Esprit de Meylet" - biodynamic Bordeaux, a gift hand-carried by a friend; really pretty wine, decent acidity, steady flavor from start to finish, "like a Steve Edmunds wine" -Chris
Ch. Sociando-Mallet 1983 Haut-Medoc - lots of tobacco, long and strong, though I find it kinda one-note
--
To end the feast Eden brings out two rich desserts: hand-made walnut baklava, and a hazelnut cake with Nutella frosting. You can see in the photos that we made a considerable dent in this one!
And several sweet wines appeared:
Moulin Touchais 1990 Coteaux du Layon - sweet but not very interesting
Dom. des Gagnieres 1990 Bonnezeaux - probably "Cuvee Benoit" but the label is damaged; another one that is sweet but not much else going on
Dom. des Petits Quarts 1996 Bonnezeaux "Le Malabe" - whoa, this is intense, vigorously sweet, sensuous and tactile, whee
Monarchia 1999 Tokaji Aszu, 6 Puttonyos - really sweet but also tremendous zing, lemon peel and cinnamon stick, lively and delightful
--
Heartfelt and numerous thanks to our hosts, Eden and Scott, for the wonderful jeebus. And for the careful instructions how tradition-bound NYers might reach NJ safely. And for the spacious, light-filled dining room. And for the guest appearance by Pierce, whose shyness was finally overcome by the Nutella wafting through the house.
Photos here. Thanks to Brad Kane for all the nicely posed ones, including the group photo and the wines. The candid shots, including The Hush Puppy diptych, are by me.
It is noon on a Saturday in Scotch Plains. Last night's excesses, or workday, still plod in our heads.
Bedraggled, but ever cheerful, the intrepid winos complete their pilgrimage to the land whereupon sits the Kitchen of Eden.
The framework for the gathering remains the same as last time: Eden produces magnificent victuals and we try to bring wines equal to them.
The first few dishes all tumble out onto the table as they are ready:
- a twist on the usual gougeres greeting, instead we have... hush puppies!
- deviled eggs served on an anatomically-correct plate
- then, technically, two canapes... toasted fromage fort and salmon rillettes
- and the last of the white-friendly foods... phyllo-wrapped asparagus and parmesan
The eggs were cool and creamy, more mustard than cayenne. The salmon rillettes were a mix of smoked and non-smoked fish. Only a madman turns down melted cheese on toasted bread!
And we drink:
Bergweiler 1994 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Auslese - horrendously corked
Now, a blind flight:
"A" - lots and lots of phenolic material here, obscuring the fruit, leaving only a whiff of face-powder; I like this one but others say it deteriorates with time open
=> Ch. de la Ragotiere 1999 Muscadet VV "1er Cru du Chateau"
"B" - sharper acidity , narrower palate, I say 'matchsticks' while Andrew says 'mushrooms'; universally called 'the funky one' but most enjoy it
=> Dom. de la Pepiere 1999 Muscadet "Clos des Briords"
"C" - a better-balanced wine but kinda dull; everyone's also-ran
=> Dom. Luneau-Papin 1999 Muscadet "Clos des Allees"
Fayolle 2014 Hermitage Blanc "Les Dionieres" - rich and fruity, fresh-cut straw and some Pez; but, with some air, it's getting oakier and sweeter and kinda Nutter-Butter cookie, hm
Jacques Puffeney 2013 Trousseau "Les Berangeres" - rather robust for trousseau, crisp, tannic, tangy, I had expected this to match with the strong cheese but it's a little much
Eminence Road 2014 Riesling - so different from a German riesling! Andrew says this one grew on shale and limestone, did malo, sat on its lees a while, and was bottled with no sulfites; still excellent zing and a carefully-couched bit of sweetness, great
Champalou 1996 Vouvray "La Cuvee des Fondraux" - several of us have had disappointing experiences with this maker but not this time: officially demi-sec but showing more sec-tendre today, lingering and tinglering, rounded and delicious
Bergweiler 1994 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Auslese - take two!: 09 95, golden, well-mannered, just-so tangy, nice package but really ripe
--
Now we move on to more substantial fare.
First, Eden passes a plate of stuffed zucchini, served upright with pancetta, egg, and parmesan inside. The extra zing of salty pork livens up the fleshy gourd.
Next comes the main course: Bollito Vitello, which has been simmering for hours, served with a scalliony Bernaise(?), oven-roasted potatoes, and oven-roasted carrots sprinkled with thyme and pecorino romano. Earthy, simple, substantial, wonderful food.
And if you can't find a wine to match with this:
Breton 1996 Bourgueil "Grandmont" - OMG potent nose, potent palate, this is the essence of cab franc, wow
Az. Agr. Ronchi di Giancarlo Rocca 2001 Barbaresco - typical but gentle, I'm trying to find something to say
Ch. Meylet 2010 St-Emilion Grand Cru "Esprit de Meylet" - biodynamic Bordeaux, a gift hand-carried by a friend; really pretty wine, decent acidity, steady flavor from start to finish, "like a Steve Edmunds wine" -Chris
Ch. Sociando-Mallet 1983 Haut-Medoc - lots of tobacco, long and strong, though I find it kinda one-note
--
To end the feast Eden brings out two rich desserts: hand-made walnut baklava, and a hazelnut cake with Nutella frosting. You can see in the photos that we made a considerable dent in this one!
And several sweet wines appeared:
Moulin Touchais 1990 Coteaux du Layon - sweet but not very interesting
Dom. des Gagnieres 1990 Bonnezeaux - probably "Cuvee Benoit" but the label is damaged; another one that is sweet but not much else going on
Dom. des Petits Quarts 1996 Bonnezeaux "Le Malabe" - whoa, this is intense, vigorously sweet, sensuous and tactile, whee
Monarchia 1999 Tokaji Aszu, 6 Puttonyos - really sweet but also tremendous zing, lemon peel and cinnamon stick, lively and delightful
--
Heartfelt and numerous thanks to our hosts, Eden and Scott, for the wonderful jeebus. And for the careful instructions how tradition-bound NYers might reach NJ safely. And for the spacious, light-filled dining room. And for the guest appearance by Pierce, whose shyness was finally overcome by the Nutella wafting through the house.
Photos here. Thanks to Brad Kane for all the nicely posed ones, including the group photo and the wines. The candid shots, including The Hush Puppy diptych, are by me.