Oswaldo Costa
Oswaldo Costa
Living in New York in the mid-1990s, I became increasingly interested in wine, taking courses, subscribing to magazines, etc. My father lived in Paris, but had never been too interested in the subject and, whenever he came to visit, looked benevolently upon the emergence of one more hobby.
One day, circa 2000, the year my daughter was born, my father was in town and called asking if I had any suggestions because he wanted to give a really spectacular wine to a very knowledgeable friend. I was thrilled with the mission and, being even more ignorant than I am today, and an economist, I researched which wines scored above 95 in both WS and WA. Some did in one, some did in the other, but relatively few did in both. At the time, Haut Brion 1989 was the only one to score 100 in both, but cost $500. My father authorized the purchase, and asked me to bring it to his apartment. Taking advantage of the research, I bought with my own money a Trotanoy 95 and a Jadot Clos de Bèze 96 because both had excellent scores and cost something more compatible with my purchasing power (as a historical curiosity, scores included below).
A few days later, I took the Haut Brion with the greatest care to the apartment at 48th and Third that served as my father's pied-a-terre near the U.N. I handed over the prize, with a touch of envy for the beneficiary. My father took the bottle in hand, examined the label, turned the bottle around and handed it back to me, saying "it's yours." In retrospect it may seem obvious, but I swear that not for a second did I suspect that I had been set up. I was stunned, of course; gestures like these you never forget.
Since the reviews said that the Haut Brion should only be drunk after twenty years, I decided to keep it (and the other two bottles) until my daughter was 18. Besides Olivia, I wanted to open it with my two dear sisters and my wonderful wife Marcia, since these are the most important people in my life.
Olivia is sweet sixteen, currently visiting for Spring Break; Marcia and I are moving to Portugal with little André in July; my sisters live in São Paulo; so I decided to anticipate this tribute to my beloved father, who died in 2006, not knowing if I’ll ever be able to reconvene these people again.
Last Thursday, in a small family dinner filled with reminiscence, I opened these three reds that I have carried to and fro for over fifteen years. How were they? I suspect that’s not the point. My taste has changed so much since then, and we know there are no great wines, only great bottles, since each cork is a punt in the dark. If you must know, the Jadot must have contained a ton of sulfur. In the decanter, it went from hard as nails to decadent within hours, but showed a fair amount of stuffing for an industrial artisanal wine. There was also a bit of TCA, explaining much; some reward for my patience. The Trotanoy was for the most part the wotn; complex and intriguing, blackberry, tar and charcoal, fine balance and ideal weight, no excess concentration or wood, except perhaps in the texture. Go, Merlot! The Haut Brion was relatively contained, with a subtle undercurrent of spices. Beautiful structure, weight and balance, also no wood or excess concentration. It evolved nicely in the glass - to the extent that an evolving subject can observe an evolving object -, becoming almost perfect for what it is. But hardly a wine that shouts, that grabs a critic by the throat.
But what a relief not to have to take this fragile and symbolism-laden baggage with me to Portugal.
Before the main characters, we had two starters:
2004 Dom Perignon Brut Champagne 12.5%
Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Beautiful aroma, ultra-expressive; very mineral; standard brioche and almonds; CO2 a little excessive; nice mouth, but not as good as the aroma.
2004 Chandon de Briailles Le Corton Charlemagne 13.5%
Bought on a visit to the winery in 2008. Sesame and anise aromas. Rich, unctuous, but not too heavy. Good acidity, subtle fruit.
1996 Louis Jadot Chambertin Clos de Bèze 13.5% RP95 WS96
1995 Chateau Trotanoy Pomerol 13.5% RP93 WS97
1989 Chateau Haut Brion Graves 13.0% WS100 RP100
One day, circa 2000, the year my daughter was born, my father was in town and called asking if I had any suggestions because he wanted to give a really spectacular wine to a very knowledgeable friend. I was thrilled with the mission and, being even more ignorant than I am today, and an economist, I researched which wines scored above 95 in both WS and WA. Some did in one, some did in the other, but relatively few did in both. At the time, Haut Brion 1989 was the only one to score 100 in both, but cost $500. My father authorized the purchase, and asked me to bring it to his apartment. Taking advantage of the research, I bought with my own money a Trotanoy 95 and a Jadot Clos de Bèze 96 because both had excellent scores and cost something more compatible with my purchasing power (as a historical curiosity, scores included below).
A few days later, I took the Haut Brion with the greatest care to the apartment at 48th and Third that served as my father's pied-a-terre near the U.N. I handed over the prize, with a touch of envy for the beneficiary. My father took the bottle in hand, examined the label, turned the bottle around and handed it back to me, saying "it's yours." In retrospect it may seem obvious, but I swear that not for a second did I suspect that I had been set up. I was stunned, of course; gestures like these you never forget.
Since the reviews said that the Haut Brion should only be drunk after twenty years, I decided to keep it (and the other two bottles) until my daughter was 18. Besides Olivia, I wanted to open it with my two dear sisters and my wonderful wife Marcia, since these are the most important people in my life.
Olivia is sweet sixteen, currently visiting for Spring Break; Marcia and I are moving to Portugal with little André in July; my sisters live in São Paulo; so I decided to anticipate this tribute to my beloved father, who died in 2006, not knowing if I’ll ever be able to reconvene these people again.
Last Thursday, in a small family dinner filled with reminiscence, I opened these three reds that I have carried to and fro for over fifteen years. How were they? I suspect that’s not the point. My taste has changed so much since then, and we know there are no great wines, only great bottles, since each cork is a punt in the dark. If you must know, the Jadot must have contained a ton of sulfur. In the decanter, it went from hard as nails to decadent within hours, but showed a fair amount of stuffing for an industrial artisanal wine. There was also a bit of TCA, explaining much; some reward for my patience. The Trotanoy was for the most part the wotn; complex and intriguing, blackberry, tar and charcoal, fine balance and ideal weight, no excess concentration or wood, except perhaps in the texture. Go, Merlot! The Haut Brion was relatively contained, with a subtle undercurrent of spices. Beautiful structure, weight and balance, also no wood or excess concentration. It evolved nicely in the glass - to the extent that an evolving subject can observe an evolving object -, becoming almost perfect for what it is. But hardly a wine that shouts, that grabs a critic by the throat.
But what a relief not to have to take this fragile and symbolism-laden baggage with me to Portugal.
Before the main characters, we had two starters:
2004 Dom Perignon Brut Champagne 12.5%
Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Beautiful aroma, ultra-expressive; very mineral; standard brioche and almonds; CO2 a little excessive; nice mouth, but not as good as the aroma.
2004 Chandon de Briailles Le Corton Charlemagne 13.5%
Bought on a visit to the winery in 2008. Sesame and anise aromas. Rich, unctuous, but not too heavy. Good acidity, subtle fruit.
1996 Louis Jadot Chambertin Clos de Bèze 13.5% RP95 WS96
1995 Chateau Trotanoy Pomerol 13.5% RP93 WS97
1989 Chateau Haut Brion Graves 13.0% WS100 RP100