TN: The Birthday Jeebus (April 26, 2016)

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
attendees: Brad, Don+Melissa, .sasha, Delia, Jay, Victor, Jayson, Pascaline, Manuel+Josie, Jeff

It is the Birthday Jeebus. Well, at least, it is the Nearly Birthday Jeebus. Three of us (Manuel, Jayson, Jeff) have birthdays within a week of tonight. So, here we all are at ABA Istanbul for Turkish food and quite a lot of non-Turkish wine:

La Grapperie 2011 Coteaux du Loir "Adonis" - typical pineau d'aunis wacky combo of dark earth and twangy acidity, yummy stuff, I brought this because we're gonna need a lightweight wine in here soon

Foreau 1997 Vouvray Demi-Sec - fresh and tangy, more lemon peel than orange marmalade, sweet but not honeyed or cloying, delightful bottle and much better than other recent examples

Prager 1992 Riesling Smaragd Weissenkirchner Klaus Trocken - SFJoe bottle; gorgeous mouthful of lemon curd and a long waxy finish, wine for grownups

Vouette & Sorbee 2011 Champagne Extra Brut, Blanc de Blancs, "Cuvee Blanc d'Argile" - magnum; disgorged 5/2/14; huge froth, tangy and crisp and chalky but still light on its feet, great

Boyer-Martenot 1996 Meursault-Perrieres 1er - from a legendary basement in Michigan, the wine is in perfect condition, unctuous and peachy, not at all tropical or overripe, and yet it reminds some people at the table that other years were better for white burgundy

Trimbach 1990 Riesling "Cuvee Frederic Emile" - magnum; youthful, limey, tangy, the dang bottle could pass for a weapon but the wine is yum

Clos Roche Blanche 2008 Touraine "Cuvee Gamay" - corked

Dom. du Closel 1985 Savennieres - old-school chenin: lots of candle wax and honeycomb, layers of flavor (none of them oxidized on purpose), it's from a hot climat and it shows in the higher alcohol, "Can't get this today" -Brad

Ch. La Gaffeliere 1970 St-Emilion - it's the Old Bordeaux mix of dark berries, decaying leaves and stiff tannins, this one is a touch lactic for my taste

Ch. Magdelaine 1970 St-Emilion - now take the Old Bordeaux thing and jazz it with a bit of orange peel and step down the tannins in favor of more earth, that's better

Produttori del Barbaresco 1968 Barbaresco - fragrant at first but it goes kinda soft and shoe-polish-y and a little stewy. On the bright side, there is a story here: Manuel bought this bottle earlier today but then discovered that his nouveau hotel had no good wine tools to open it. So, the Latin Liquidator acquired two safety pins and a ballpoint pen and turned them into McGyver's Ah-So: jam the two pins down the side of the cork, thread the pen through their upper ends, and twist-pull. This mostly worked, amazingly enough, but the bottom end of the cork got suctioned back in so he decanted the wine ahead of time.

Bod. Franco-Espanolas 1970 Rioja Riserva "Royal" - completely different profile from the French and Italians: very red-fruit, sandalwood incense, tannins have resolved so the wine is gentle but the finish is long

Ch. Palmer 1970 Margaux - magnum; the OB with darkest black cherry and a hit of shoe polish

Ch. La Fleur-Petrus 1970 Pomerol - sweet, subtle, and pretty; this is a pleasant change from most of the other OB (which are good, of course, but a little bit relentless)

Jamet 1995 Cote-Rotie - whoa, another paradigm shift: this is suave, peppery, medium-weight, and takes a while to open; beautiful wine

Bod. Montecillo 1968 Rioja Crianza "Vina Monty" - my notes are deteriorating: all I have written here is "pretty"

Ch. Climens 1986 Barsac - oaky but luxurious, very full and rich, old-fashioned well-mannered woodiness which has enough oomph to be noticed on our exhausted palates

Pinon 1989 Vouvray Moelleux 1er Trie - acidity has softened a bit but this is clean, gentle, more mandarin than the Foreau, Brad calls a note of black licorice
 
At our end of the table consensus on the '70 Bordeaux was Magdelaine, closely followed by Palmer, then the Gaffeliere (whose nose I particularly liked) with the lovely but somewhat ripe La Fleur Petrus in a clear last place.
 
Happy birthday, Jeff!

What a nice lineup. The Prager and Jamet sound particularly wonderful. And all of that OB would have been quite enlightening to my uneducated palate.

I'm also pleasantly surprised by the note on the V+S; a bottle of this 2011 a bit more than a year ago disappointed.
 
originally posted by slaton:
Happy birthday, Jeff!

What a nice lineup. The Prager and Jamet sound particularly wonderful. And all of that OB would have been quite enlightening to my uneducated palate.

I'm also pleasantly surprised by the note on the V+S; a bottle of this 2011 a bit more than a year ago disappointed.

I also liked it a lot. Was yours in magnum or 750?
 
originally posted by Jay Miller:
At our end of the table consensus on the '70 Bordeaux was Magdelaine, closely followed by Ausone, then the Gaffeliere (whose nose I particularly liked) with the lovely but somewhat ripe La Fleur Petrus in a clear last place.

Further proof that you guys are clueless, since there was no Ausone. ;-)

I, of course, had a very different take on the Bordeaux since I prefer that they show some fruit and not just soil. My order was the La Fleur Petrus, followed by the La Gaffeliere, Magdelaine and then the Palmer.

A fun night. I'll try t get my notes up, but I thought the whites stole the show, though that '95 Jamet was gorgeous. So nice to have a vibrant and utterly scrumptious '97 Foreau demi-sec after the dud bottle we had when Jeff Morris was in town last month.
 
originally posted by Jay Miller:
I'm also pleasantly surprised by the note on the V+S; a bottle of this 2011 a bit more than a year ago disappointed.

I also liked it a lot. Was yours in magnum or 750?
750. So there's that.

Actually, I thought I had a magnum of 2011 buried away. But I just checked and appparently it's 2009.
 
originally posted by Jay Miller:
At our end of the table consensus on the '70 Bordeaux was Magdelaine, closely followed by Palmer, then the Gaffeliere (whose nose I particularly liked) with the lovely but somewhat ripe La Fleur Petrus in a clear last place.
So, we differ only in the position of the LFP.
 
Oh, and I just found some snapshots in my dropbox...
Melissa, Pascaline, and Brad The Shooter
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Delia and Sasha and the weight of the world
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Jay, Victor, Jayson - "Good?"
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Manuel and The Device
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Mobile interpolation looks like a watercolor
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My notes.

1997 Foreau Domaine du Clos Naudin Vouvray Demi-Sec - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray

Alright. False alarm. This bottle, from the same source as my previous bottles, was terrific and the best bottle of it that I've had in years. It did take a little while to get going, but it blew up big. Fresh, vibrant and with an intensity that the past few bottles have lacked. It shows ripe quince with orange citrus and a hint of stone fruits and candied ginger along with the usual mineral notes. Terrific length and showing firmer acids than usual that balance out the light sweetness perfectly. A wonderful showing. A/A-.

1992 Prager Riesling Smaragd Trocken Weissenkirchner Klaus - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau

Deep yellow in color, but without the golden hues of the '97 Foreau. Like a grand English actress from a period piece, the wine shows refinement, breed and great depth. There's a wonderful lemon profile on the nose and palate, but without the normal tartness that follows, lots of stone character and stone fruit with that aged patina. Beautiful balanced, the wine has weight, but does not come off as heavy at all. The fruit and structure continued to build all night. This wine also held special meaning as it came from the Chambers Street sale of our friend Joe Dougherty's Austrian cellar. Needless to say, we all lifted a glass to Joe! Solid A-.

1990 Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile - France, Alsace

From magnum and as Kool & the Gang would say, "she's fresh (fresh,) exciting!" No real sign of petrol in this bottle, but it's full of its typical lime character with plenty of stoney mineral and light peach notes. Beautiful balance and depth here with age having rounded the edges off the acid spine, giving it a friendlier mouthfeel. A-/A.

1985 Domaine du Closel-Ch“teau des Vaults Savennières - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières

Classic old school Savennières. Sulfur has kept the wine remarkably young and it has a bit of a lean and mean persona, which accurately reflects the vintage. It's waxy with bright quince flavors and aromas, a touch of bitter almond and mushroom with a strong mineral streak. Bone dry with sharp acids, the wine could use a little more flesh to drape over the structure, but I enjoy the raciness and leanness of the wine. Finishes with a hit of bitter pith. B+/A-.

1996 Yves Boyer-Martenot Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

Not my style, but showing well for what it is. It has an unctuous texture with plenty of ripe peach and orchard fruit flavors and aromas. Lots of butterscotch character, though the oak is integrated. A little bit higher acid levels would perk things up, but it's certainly not low acid. Mature, but without a lot of oxidation showing. B+.

2011 Vouette et Sorbée Champagne Blanc d'Argile Extra Brut - France, Champagne

Quite high in acidity and the bead is initially a bit too frothy for my taste, but there are pleasant apple, citrus, biscuit and chalky mineral flavors and aromas. Clean and refreshing and much better once the bubbles calm down. B+.

2008 Clos Roche Blanche Touraine Cuvée Gamay - France, Loire Valley, Touraine

Corked. (NR/flawed)

1968 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

Pretty well maderized and beef brothy with balsam notes and a surprisingly intact core of cherry fruit, but the wine really dries out and turns austere on the back half of the palate. Drink up as it's on life support and the priest is in the room. B-/C+.

1970 Ch“teau Palmer - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

From magnum and normally one of my top five or six favorite vintages of Palmer, I found this bottle a bit wanting. Suave and elegant in persona, there's wonderful earth, herb and cherry flavors and aromas and the complex secondary development one would expect from a top Bordeaux of this age, but there's usually more fruit and flesh showing and I certainly expected there to be more than there was from magnum. The acids also were rather high and stuck out a little. Not bad, but I expected more. B+.

1970 Ch“teau La Fleur-Pétrus - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

My favorite of the '70 Bordeaux flight and consistently one of my favorites from 1970. This shows a thick texture and plenty of black cherry fruit along with tobacco, herb and earth notes. There's more coarseness than I'm used to seeing with some char to the wood. Tannins are still firm and there's a touch of a coffee note on the finish. No need to rush with this one. A-.

1970 Ch“teau Magdelaine - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

Like the Palmer, this is more about elegance and restraint and relatively little fruit. Intensely mineral with a bit of iron and shades of cherry, it's lithe and shows plenty of development, but the wine is all about the soil and could use a little bit more fruit. B+/A-.

1970 Ch“teau La Gaffelière - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

Softened, yet a bit clunky and simple. While it may not have the elegance and sophistication of the Magdelaine and the Palmer, it has something those two wines were a bit lacking in...fruit! Plenty of sweet cherry fruit with hints of chocolate, spice and earth. The structure is slipping just a bit here, so I'd drink sooner rather than later. A-/B+.

1995 Domaine Jamet Côte-Rôtie - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

Always nice to check in on this sentimental beauty as it was the first Jamet I tried on release. The wine is still going strong and shows delicious black and red fruit, nice smokey and meaty elements with spices and herbs. Feminine in profile with terrific depth, elegance and juicy acidity. My red WOTN. A/A-.

1970 Bodegas Franco-Españolas Rioja Royal Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja

Classic old Rioja with it's cherry, spicy cedar and citrus profile. Still has a good core of fruit and shows a touch more depth and balance than the Montecillo. Fairly resolved and finishes with citrus and leather. Solid B+.

1968 Bodegas Montecillo Rioja Viña Monty Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja

Shows ripe, slightly roasted black fruit with a hint of licorice and maybe a little too much charred wood. The wine is bigger and fresher than the Franco-Españolas, with more vibrant fruit, but the char is just a little too distracting. Still, a solid drink. B+.

1986 Ch“teau Climens - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac

From .375 ml. Showing quite nicely with pronounced butterscotch and tropical fruit flavors and aromas. The wood, though obvious, is nicely integrated and there's a surprising amount of acidity (not up to '88 levels) that keeps the wine svelte and not too heavy. Plenty sweet with a lovely rich mouthfeel. It finishes long with orange citrus and pineapple. A/A-.

1989 François Pinon Vouvray 1er Trie - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray

A lovely if somewhat atypical showing for this wine. I hadn't had it since the re-release about 5-6 years ago and at that time, the wine showed a lot of power, a fairly rich texture and more of an apricot profile than anything else. This bottle was understated, elegant and more dominated by pear, apple and quince than just apricot and orange citrus, though they was certainly there. Additionally, there was an intriguing high quality black licorice note I've never experienced before. Beautifully balanced and singing a pretty song, but not at the top of its lungs. A-/A.

The white and dessert wines.
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The reds.
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Posted from CellarTracker
 
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