Abruzzo, the beautiful land of warm and kind Vignerons

Trung H Nguyen

Trung H Nguyen
Abruzzo is a peaceful and marvelous place with kind and generous people. Last month we visited Abruzzo for a couple days and had a marvelous time. The first night, we had dinner at La Bandiera with our local friend Stefano and his wife Eloisa. While we were chatting and drinking a 2011 Valentini Trebbiano, a quiet gentleman stopped by our table and say Hi to us. I was in shock when Stefano told me that the gentleman is Francesco Valentini.
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It just happened that Francesco was coming to La Bandiera for dinner with his family and Stefano is his good friend. My second shock of the night was when the Sommelier, Alessio, came to our table with a bottle and told us that Francesco would like us to taste his 1967 Trebbiano. Alessio came back again later on and this time Francesco offered us his 1974 Motepulciano d'Abruzzo.
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I was completely speechless in front of the kindness of a legendary Vigneron such as Francesco Valentini.

The next day Stefano invited us to visit his family vineyard in Loreto Aprutino. Ten years ago, Stefano decided to leave his law practice in Bologna to become a vigneron in Abruzzo. Stefano renovates his wife's family farm/vineyard and starts bottling de Fermo wine. Stefano applies biodynamic principles to his vineyards.
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Stefano 2011 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo was just gorgeous. I asked Stefano what did Francesco Valentini thought about your 2011 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo. Stefano told me: "When Francesco tasted my wine his facial expression became serious and that made me very nervous because Francesco can be critical at time. Then Francesco quietly said to me: "Stefano, when I drink your wine with my eyes closed, I thought that I'm drinking my own wine." and I had tears come down my eyes...

On our way to our next stop Torano Nuovo, we stopped by a seaside restaurant, Il Palmizio, that Stefano recommended for fresh sea food. At that restaurant you can drink the Valentini Trebbiano and Montepulciano for respectively 12 and 20 per 0.75l carafe. When Valentini thinks that the wine is not up to his perfectionist standard for bottling, Valentini would sell the Sfurso or un-bottle wine in bulk to his lucky friends and restaurants.

Our next stop, Emidio Pepe agriturismo, is located near the beautiful and peaceful town of Torano Nuova. The view from EP place is stunning, with the town on the other hill and the Montepulciano old vines vineyard for the Riseva in front of the EP complex. The regular Montepulciano are from different vineyards.
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I was happy to have finally met Mr. Emidio Pepe and the Pepe family. Mr. Emidio Pepe is very proud that his 1974 Trebbiano is still golden color.
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Abruzzo is so peaceful and beautiful and the Vignerons are so warm and kind.
 

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Thanks for sharing, this sounds like a wonderful visit.
I'll keep an eye out for the Nicoletta de Fermo wines, it looks like there is an east coast importer.
 
originally posted by slaton:
Thanks for sharing, this sounds like a wonderful visit.
I'll keep an eye out for the Nicoletta de Fermo wines, it looks like there is an east coast importer.

Thanks Slaton for your kind words. Yes, Stefano told me that Grand Crus Selection in NY is his importer. I have not seen any de Fermo bottle in the Boston area yet. I was skeptical when Stefano asked me to taste his 2015 Chardonay. I actually liked it a lot after tasting it, a simple but gorgeous Chardonay from Abruzzo! Stefano said that his family plants Chardonay for a long time on this vineyard and they used Fench root stock. Amazingly, De Fermo sells 30% of their Chardonay to France.
 
Trung, great report. Thank you. I'm glad you had a chance to meet those two Grand Old Men of Abruzzo.

Do you know what is the story of Stefano's "Pecorino" wine?
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Trung, great report. Thank you. I'm glad you had a chance to meet those two Grand Old Men of Abruzzo.

Do you know what is the story of Stefano's "Pecorino" wine?

Jeff, I've tasted the 2015 De Fermo Percorimo and it was delicious. I don't know the history of Percorino at de Fermo but I will ask Stefano. Stefano and his wife Eloisa will be in NY city in the Fall and if you want to meet them over dinner i think that They will be happy to do that.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Trung, great report. Thank you. I'm glad you had a chance to meet those two Grand Old Men of Abruzzo.

Do you know what is the story of Stefano's "Pecorino" wine?

What do you mean, what is the story? Pecorino is a grape variety.
 
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De Fermo winery facility

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De Fermo vineyard, the different grape varieties are in blocks

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De Fermo vineyard. You'll notice the rows are quite long. A large quantity of the fruit is sold off in bulk.

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De Fermo cellar

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De Fermo cellar

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Pecorino in elevage at De Fermo

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The trough for foot stomping at Pepe.

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The destemmer at Pepe.

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The press at Pepe.

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Sheep.

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Montepulciano vines on pergola.

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Some of the cement tanks at Pepe. These were lined with enamel in 1986.

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Malvasia vine of Pepe.

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The Montepulciano vineyard on pergola by the Pepe family home. There is a significant amount of limestone in the subsoil of this vineyard.

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A Trebbiano vineyard of Pepe's. Notice the training height of the vines, and also the thick clay topsoil.

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A Montepulciano vineyard on pergola that Pepe owns.

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Looking up through the Montepulciano leaves.

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A vineyard that Pepe owns which is closer to the border with the Marche.

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The Pecorino vineyard at Pepe, behind the family home.
 
Levi, thanks for some great photos of De Fermo and Pepe vineyards and winery. Abruzzo is so beautiful but still very much an undiscovered place.

Dan, yes we'll get together to drink the simple wine from Abruzzo over dinner.
 
Trung and Levi - Thanks for a great thread. I hope to get to Abruzzo very soon.

I would definitely be up for a dinner with Stefano in NYC ad have some older Pepes to contribute.
 
originally posted by Robert Dentice:

Trung and Levi - Thanks for a great thread. I hope to get to Abruzzo very soon.

For a place that seems remote and removed from the tourist fray, I was surprised how quickly the drive went from Rome.
 
Robert, yes I hope that you will visit Abruzzo soon. As Levi said, it just a short drive from Rome but the landscape, people, food and wine are so different.

I'm sure that Stefano will be delighted to meet you and the NY crew.
Thanks Robert.
 
Nice pics, Levi. Did you also hit Ristorante La Bandiera while you were there? Seems like the place to go when in Abruzzo visiting winemakers. I'm still dreaming of the "cappuccino" egg.
 
originally posted by Levi Dalton:
That's understandable. Lots of grapes out there. This one is found in the Marche and sometimes in Abruzzo.
Can you say something more about what it usually tastes like?
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
originally posted by Levi Dalton:
That's understandable. Lots of grapes out there. This one is found in the Marche and sometimes in Abruzzo.
Can you say something more about what it usually tastes like?

Absolutely.

Usually what I notice most about a Pecorino is a brisk directness and a structural intensity. An icy, sometimes crystalline texture, rather than a particuar fruit character. Sauvignon Blanc, for instance, has fruit and zippy acidity. Pecorino is not like that. Pecorino is an copper electric wire, and there is no fruit. Most of the accompanying details are, I think, supplied by either terroir or (more common) elevage. You can find oak laden Pecorino. You can find lemony Pecorino. You can find saline Pecorino.

Pecorino was once neglected and almost non-existent, and if you would like to learn more about the history of the turnaround, I would point you to Ian D'Agata's "Native Wine Grapes of Italy" as a resource.

The first Pecorino I encountered was around 2003, when I tried one from Cocchi Grifoni. D'Agata points at this producer as key in bringing the variety back to prominence. I remember it was lemony, crisp, somewhat sharp, and finishing dry. It stood out in a large tasting for just how acidic and lean it was. I tried it once, never saw it again, and also did not see another Pecorino available for some time.

Around 2008 I encountered my second ever Pecorino, one from Cataldi Madonna. This is the producer that D'Agata says brought the variety to Abruzzo (Cocchi Grifoni is a Marche producer). The Cataldi Madonna was lavishly oaked, impressive as a wine, and ludicrously expensive. Like, just stupid expensive. Recently I tried another Cataldi Madonna Pecorino (I am told they make several versions), and it was neither richly oaked, nor richly priced. The times change, I guess.

In the meantime I have had Emidio Pepe's Pecorino, which I love, and which had its first vintage in 2010, as well as the Pecorino from De Fermo. In my opinion De Fermo has a special affinity for Chardonnay (yes), and the Pecorino is a distant second when it comes to the whites from that producer.

What else do you want to know?
 
That was splendid, Levi. Thank you. Your description reminds me of Vermentino, especially from a not-so-sunny vintage in Liguria.

Running Wine-Searcher I see lots of low-end Pecorino for sale. One is called "Sheep Thrills." I guess plantings are up and the Marketing department has been summoned.
 
Circa 2008 or 2009 I remember picking up a bottle of 2007 Pietrantonij Pecorino at a Chambers tasting of Zev Rovine wines (he was just starting, then). The wine was quaffably saline, the grape too oddly named to resist, and the last name Rovine just too fitting for an importer from Italy.
 
Levi, thanks for a very detailed and informative description of Percorino wine. Yes, the Pepe Percorino is enjoyable, full- bodied and made for aging. Stefano said that the De Fermo 2015 Percorino and Chardonay has been shipped to NY so I hope to be able to try them again soon.
 
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