TN: The Birthday Jeebus (June 11, 2016)

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
attendees: Don+Melissa, Jayson, Chris+Lisa, Brad, Cliff, Randy, Suzanne, Victor, Jay+Arnold, Chris+Merry+Addison, Michel, Asher, Jeff

It's the 2016 edition of the Birthday Jeebus. Initially intended for the two or three people whose birthdays fall in early July it has become more open in recent years. We now accept birthday celebrations covering the period of July 1 - June 30.

Randy McCluer happens to be in town, happens to have had a birthday recently, happens to be free this afternoon... jeebus, what a coincidence.

Addison is about 2 years old and just cute as a button. And it's nice to see Chris and Merry again; it's been a while for me.

This year we have the most spectacular venue ever: Melissa's mom just happens to own a penthouse on 101 Street and Central Park West with a wrap-around terrace and unfettered sight lines. This is a panorama photo from the terrace (click to embiggen (and it's big (but worth it if you like NYC skyline (mostly south and east of the park)))):



Once we get our breath back, we start setting up the victuals in the dining room. Food was 'covered dish' so people made lots of comfort food, some easy finger food, Cliff brought excellent home-made bread, and yours truly assigned himself to the Vegetable Watch:

Sloppy Joe sliders, Smoked brisket, BBQ baby back ribs, foie gras, mousse truffe, Almond cake, Home baked bread, Homemade Coleslaw, Buttermilk Duck Fat Cornbread, Chopped salad, Cheese, prosciutto, speck, soppressata, Cheese, bread, pie (I missed what kind), Creamed Morels, Cucumber and Coconut Salad, Korean Cucumber Pickle, Creamy Baked Onions, Creamy Chanterelle Sauce, Carrot Confit, Portobello Mushrooms Stuffed with Tomato and Olive

Due to traffic control concerns we setup the wines in the ***********. There were plenty of those, too:

Pinon 2015 Pet Nat Rose - shocking pink, taste confuses Jayson until we look up the cepage: cot and grolleau; it's pretty to look at and it's got good acidity but the flavors are wan and the whole thing has that pet nat mustiness, eh

Pepiere 14 Muscadet - scalped; eventually a few of us get the corkiness

Faurie 1996 Hermitage - very masculine, very syrah, plums, a hint of black raspberries, still gently tannic, great bottle

O Raffault 1990 Chinon "Les Picasses" - another beautiful bottle, gently green pepper, gently tobacco, Bacchus is smiling if this is the course of the day!

Cruse Wine 2015 Pet Nat - sparkling valdiguie but a lot of that musty, stale biscuit thing, oh well

Thomas Labaille 2005 Sancerre Chavignol "Les Monts Damnes" "Cuvee Buster" - nice, very round in the mouth, a whiff of citrus and then a lingering interesting note of bitterness

CVNE 1981 Rioja Gran Reserva "Vina Real" - a whiff of rubber galoshes and a little stinging acidity but this is red-fruited and well-composed

C. von Schubert "Maximin Grunhauser" 1997 Herrenberg Riesling Spatlese - OMG, this is great: green grapes and grapefruit dancing over just-so ripeness, great stuff Jay

O Raffault 2012 Chinon "Les Picasses" - rather ordinary

Marie-Courtin NV Champagne Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs "Eloquence" - disgorged 3/14, a little bottle funk but bright and chalky and good

Pepiere 2005 Muscadet "Granite de Clisson" - substantial and minerally, acidity is much reduced, but honestly not much fun to drink at this time

Occhipinti 2013 IGT "Il Frappato" - haven't had one in a while; this is all red fruit, resin, and rust; yum!

Thevenet 2009 Morgon VV - divisive: Jayson doesn't care for it ("It doesn't taste like Morgon") while Jay does ("It tastes like Thevenet Morgon"); I think it's pretty typique and good enough

Drouhin 2010 Cotes-de-Nuits Village - a good basic perfumey Bourgogne, at the right price this is a good buy

Beaucastel 2007 Chateauneuf-du-Pape - I suppose there had to be something here for Brad to drink; a good bottle: medium acidity balanced with minerality and still primary fruit, I can drink this too

Couly-Dutheil 1989 Chinon "La Baronnie Madeleine" - no matter how hard people applaud for them I just don't see it, and this bottle is much the same: tastes like franc, a little on the green side, eh

Caslot "Dom. de la Chevalerie" 1996 Bourgueil - my note just says, "Yum" so I think my wine intake was starting to surpass my food intake

Clos des Papes 2001 Chateauneuf-du-Pape - heat damage? something not right here

Bart 2012 Marsannay "Les Champs Salomon" - slightly lactic at first but that blows off, easy drinking Burgundy: fruit, earth, middling acidity, attractive nose, yum

Foreau "Clos Naudin" 2008 Vouvray Moelleux - another OMG bottle, sweet but with enough stuffing to keep it from going OTT

Zind-Humbrecht 1995 Riesling Grand Cru "Brand" Vendange Tardive - at first, this is so blindingly sweet but then the acidity rages back to reclaim your tongue, interesting and great wine

Huet 1996 Vouvray Demi-Sec "Clos de Bourg" - earlier in the day this was all structure and you could barely taste the sweetness; the balance is better now but still the texture is off; maybe best not to disturb for a while longer?

Lungarotti 1978 Torgiano Rubesco - this was dead-ish on opening, I meant to return to it but I drink I think too much and never did; by the way, another wretched Winebid bottle

I missed a Pahlmeyer wine and a Vilmart champagne.

Fun day and evening. Infinite thanks to Melissa's mom for providing an infinitely fantastic space. Thanks to all the cooks for plate after tray after bowl after platter of excellent food. Thanks to everyone who brought their smiling selves to the party.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:

We now accept birthday celebrations covering the period of July 1 - June 30.

The whole year then?

Some years ago Eden and I negotiated an extension making it June 1 to July 1 so we'd be included. I threatened Brad that I'd bring nothing but Chinon, Chardonnay and Champagne to the dinner otherwise.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:

C. von Schubert "Maximin Grunhauser" 1997 Herrenberg Riesling Spatlese - OMG, this is great: green grapes and grapefruit dancing over just-so ripeness, great stuff Jay

So lovely the way Grunhaus does that classical music rock and roll.
 
Thanks for being the note taker, Jeff and a huge thank you to Melissa's mom for opening up her spectacular home to our group! The view was breathtaking! In fact, there was so much room in the apartment, a far cry from my cramped quarters and the usual venue for the birthday jeebus, that we were spread out in three areas and I actually barely got to speak to some folks as a result. Jay and Arnold literally did not move out of the dining room, where the food was, but where the most intense air conditioning was found. A lot of folks stayed in the main *********** where the wine was located and still another contingent, which I was a part of, braved the high humidity and and warmer than expected temperatures and spent almost the entire time outdoors on the terrace, taking in the views. As a result, I didn't get through all the wines.

A little bit of correction and history on the history of the event. This was the "18th annual potluck birthday jeebus." Our first gathering was actually in July of '99, when I had Chris & Lisa, Andrew & Jen, Callahan, Connell and Oleg & Inna out to my folk's summer place for a late potluck birthday retreat on beautiful and historic Lake Hopatcong, NJ. The next year, when I discovered that Dougherty's birthday was June 9th and Lisa's being on the 12th, whereas mine is on the 10th, we moved the date more to the first or second weekend in June, as this was also around the time when Dressner would take off to France for the summer, so it became a combined birthday/goodbye Joe jeeb.

The food was definitely a step up this year! Some truly great dishes and many thanks to everyone for their wonderful contributions! In fact, I think the food outshone the wines, though there were some terrific bottles present.

I think you give short shrift to that '81 CVNE Vina Real Gran Reserva that Jay brought. The wine was absolutely stunning and easily the WOTN. There's a reason why you hardly ever see that wine for sale and when you do, the price is quite dear at this point. Those that have them are drinking them, not reselling them!

The Occhipinti was probably my other favorite red wine of the night, followed by the '90 Olga Raffault and the '97 Grunhauser, '08 Foreau Moelleux and '95 Zind Humbrecht Riesling Brand VT stole the show for the whites.

So nice that Randy could join us. It had been awhile since he was last in town.

A few pics.

The group minus Victor, Asher and Michel and with Chris deliberately hiding behind Jay.
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The whites.
The_whites_resized.jpg
The reds.
The_reds_resized.jpg
Meredith with some of the good eats.
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The view looking SE.
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A rainbow made an appearance.
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A Great Egret flew by in the evening sun.
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I liked the Pinon Rose a lot more than you, finding it quite vibrant. I tried it at the end of the evening so maybe air helped.

The Faure Hermitage was wonderful, one of my WOTDs.

The 1990 Olga Picasses was fantastic, one of the best bottles of this I recall having.

The 2005 TL Sancerre was one of the best Buster examples of this that I recall. Usually I prefer the regular other than for the picture

"CVNE 1981 Rioja Gran Reserva "Vina Real" - a whiff of rubber galoshes and a little stinging acidity but this is red-fruited and well-composed"
I enjoyed the CVNE much more than you finding it a perfectly resolved lovely Rioja. My last bottle so maybe rose colored sentiment was influencing me.

"O Raffault 2012 Chinon "Les Picasses" - rather ordinary"
I liked the 2012 Olga Picasses a lot less than you

I loved the Marie Courtin Eloquence, a perfectly graceful, lithe Champagne.

The Pahlmeyer ('95 Merlot?) was also perfectly dreadful but for different reasons.
 
I haven't had the 12 Olga, but since my 95s and 96s just opened up a couple or so years ago to any extent and my 02s are still pretty young and surly, might it just be completely closed?
 
Thanks for the pictures, Brad.

I tend to get to wines soon after they are opened so it is very possible that the Pinon and CVNE shook off their initial problems and bloomed.
 
Sounds wonderful.

Did anyone note the color of the capsule on the Faurie Hermitage?
I don't know when the practice started, but according to Kermit:

Gréffieux/Bessards: Cream capsule
Bessards/Méal: Gold capsule
Méal: Gold capsule with “M”
 
originally posted by slaton:
Sounds wonderful.

Did anyone note the color of the capsule on the Faurie Hermitage?
I don't know when the practice started,

Practice started in France with the 2004 vintage.
Before, you have a number of lot on the bootle. You notice the number. You call Bernard Faurie. He's got a notebook...
Best regards
pierre-alain benoit
 
originally posted by pab:
originally posted by slaton:
Sounds wonderful.

Did anyone note the color of the capsule on the Faurie Hermitage?
I don't know when the practice started,

Practice started in France with the 2004 vintage.
Before, you have a number of lot on the bootle. You notice the number. You call Bernard Faurie. He's got a notebook...
Best regards
pierre-alain benoit
I picked up this bottle at the Marche Aux Vins in Ampuis in January of this year.
 
originally posted by pab:
originally posted by slaton:
Sounds wonderful.

Did anyone note the color of the capsule on the Faurie Hermitage?
I don't know when the practice started,

Practice started in France with the 2004 vintage.
Before, you have a number of lot on the bootle. You notice the number. You call Bernard Faurie. He's got a notebook...
Nice. The dude abides.
 
originally posted by Jay Miller:
I liked the Pinon Rose a lot more than you, finding it quite vibrant. I tried it at the end of the evening so maybe air helped.

The Faure Hermitage was wonderful, one of my WOTDs.

The 1990 Olga Picasses was fantastic, one of the best bottles of this I recall having.

The 2005 TL Sancerre was one of the best Buster examples of this that I recall. Usually I prefer the regular other than for the picture

"CVNE 1981 Rioja Gran Reserva "Vina Real" - a whiff of rubber galoshes and a little stinging acidity but this is red-fruited and well-composed"
I enjoyed the CVNE much more than you finding it a perfectly resolved lovely Rioja. My last bottle so maybe rose colored sentiment was influencing me.

"O Raffault 2012 Chinon "Les Picasses" - rather ordinary"
I liked the 2012 Olga Picasses a lot less than you

I loved the Marie Courtin Eloquence, a perfectly graceful, lithe Champagne.

The Pahlmeyer ('95 Merlot?) was also perfectly dreadful but for different reasons.

Some comments.

Jeff, I think my main criticism with the Thevenet was it was not that good. And it seemed that '96 Huet CdB DS was just an off bottle.

Jay, totally disagree on the Vina Real. :) I found it was at least 15-20 years from being perfectly resolved, after which it will be even more delicious and complex than it already is. As I noted on Saturday, I think this bottle would have been even better with a couple more hours of air. A pox on CVNE for what it has done to Vina Real.

We should line up some T-L Busters - do a vertical. I thought this one aged fattish and still shows sweet, which translates to a heaviness I didn't care for. I'm not 100% sure Buster isn't generally better young and energetic but in a leaner form than 2005. Ripe but for me better balanced vintage 1997 a few months ago was better. It looks like I only have 2002, 2006, 2012, and (the spectacular) 2014 left for a vertical.

I'm finishing off the last glass of the Brand VT for dessert tonight. Was my only bottle and an excellent time to drink it. Whereas I suspect the delicious Foreau's real prime time is 15 to 40 years from now.

Grunhaus was white o'night for me. That's just good dirt.

But the absolute star of the night was Cliff's bread.
 
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
originally posted by Jay Miller:
I liked the Pinon Rose a lot more than you, finding it quite vibrant. I tried it at the end of the evening so maybe air helped.

The Faure Hermitage was wonderful, one of my WOTDs.

The 1990 Olga Picasses was fantastic, one of the best bottles of this I recall having.

The 2005 TL Sancerre was one of the best Buster examples of this that I recall. Usually I prefer the regular other than for the picture

"CVNE 1981 Rioja Gran Reserva "Vina Real" - a whiff of rubber galoshes and a little stinging acidity but this is red-fruited and well-composed"
I enjoyed the CVNE much more than you finding it a perfectly resolved lovely Rioja. My last bottle so maybe rose colored sentiment was influencing me.

"O Raffault 2012 Chinon "Les Picasses" - rather ordinary"
I liked the 2012 Olga Picasses a lot less than you

I loved the Marie Courtin Eloquence, a perfectly graceful, lithe Champagne.

The Pahlmeyer ('95 Merlot?) was also perfectly dreadful but for different reasons.

Some comments.

Jeff, I think my main criticism with the Thevenet was it was not that good. And it seemed that '96 Huet CdB DS was just an off bottle.

Jay, totally disagree on the Vina Real. :) I found it was at least 15-20 years from being perfectly resolved, after which it will be even more delicious and complex than it already is. As I noted on Saturday, I think this bottle would have been even better with a couple more hours of air. A pox on CVNE for what it has done to Vina Real.

We should line up some T-L Busters - do a vertical. I thought this one aged fattish and still shows sweet, which translates to a heaviness I didn't care for. I'm not 100% sure Buster isn't generally better young and energetic but in a leaner form than 2005. Ripe but for me better balanced vintage 1997 a few months ago was better. It looks like I only have 2002, 2006, 2012, and (the spectacular) 2014 left for a vertical.

I'm finishing off the last glass of the Brand VT for dessert tonight. Was my only bottle and an excellent time to drink it. Whereas I suspect the delicious Foreau's real prime time is 15 to 40 years from now.

Grunhaus was white o'night for me. That's just good dirt.

But the absolute star of the night was Cliff's bread.

The 1998 and 1999 T-L Busters I've had in the last few years have been terrific, but I think I'm down to my last of each. It will be sad to see them go, the pooch has brought much joy.
 
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:

Jay, totally disagree on the Vina Real. :) I found it was at least 15-20 years from being perfectly resolved, after which it will be even more delicious and complex than it already is. As I noted on Saturday, I think this bottle would have been even better with a couple more hours of air. A pox on CVNE for what it has done to Vina Real.

But the absolute star of the night was Cliff's bread.

Agreed on the CVNE. Still quite young and we didn't even give it time to blossom. That said, a bottle Manuel opened a couple of years ago was much more youthful.

Also agree on Cliff's bread. Wow! Connell, you have competition! I even heard Chris going gaga over the bread and asking Cliff what his secret was to the crust.
 
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