TN: The Birthday Jeebus (June 11, 2016)

originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
originally posted by Jay Miller:
I liked the Pinon Rose a lot more than you, finding it quite vibrant. I tried it at the end of the evening so maybe air helped.

The Faure Hermitage was wonderful, one of my WOTDs.

The 1990 Olga Picasses was fantastic, one of the best bottles of this I recall having.

The 2005 TL Sancerre was one of the best Buster examples of this that I recall. Usually I prefer the regular other than for the picture

"CVNE 1981 Rioja Gran Reserva "Vina Real" - a whiff of rubber galoshes and a little stinging acidity but this is red-fruited and well-composed"
I enjoyed the CVNE much more than you finding it a perfectly resolved lovely Rioja. My last bottle so maybe rose colored sentiment was influencing me.

"O Raffault 2012 Chinon "Les Picasses" - rather ordinary"
I liked the 2012 Olga Picasses a lot less than you

I loved the Marie Courtin Eloquence, a perfectly graceful, lithe Champagne.

The Pahlmeyer ('95 Merlot?) was also perfectly dreadful but for different reasons.

But the absolute star of the night was Cliff's bread.

Cliff, I am sure, will testify that I went out of my gourd to tell him just that. Like, hunted him down and demanded his secrets and talked baking for the better part of an hour about vessels and steam and temperatures and kneading and types of flour.
 
originally posted by Chris Coad:
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
originally posted by Jay Miller:
I liked the Pinon Rose a lot more than you, finding it quite vibrant. I tried it at the end of the evening so maybe air helped.

The Faure Hermitage was wonderful, one of my WOTDs.

The 1990 Olga Picasses was fantastic, one of the best bottles of this I recall having.

The 2005 TL Sancerre was one of the best Buster examples of this that I recall. Usually I prefer the regular other than for the picture

"CVNE 1981 Rioja Gran Reserva "Vina Real" - a whiff of rubber galoshes and a little stinging acidity but this is red-fruited and well-composed"
I enjoyed the CVNE much more than you finding it a perfectly resolved lovely Rioja. My last bottle so maybe rose colored sentiment was influencing me.

"O Raffault 2012 Chinon "Les Picasses" - rather ordinary"
I liked the 2012 Olga Picasses a lot less than you

I loved the Marie Courtin Eloquence, a perfectly graceful, lithe Champagne.

The Pahlmeyer ('95 Merlot?) was also perfectly dreadful but for different reasons.

But the absolute star of the night was Cliff's bread.

Cliff, I am sure, will testify that I went out of my gourd to tell him just that. Like, hunted him down and demanded his secrets and talked baking for the better part of an hour about vessels and steam and types of flour.

So, have you put those secrets to good use yet?
 
originally posted by Brad Kane:
originally posted by Chris Coad:
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
originally posted by Jay Miller:
I liked the Pinon Rose a lot more than you, finding it quite vibrant. I tried it at the end of the evening so maybe air helped.

The Faure Hermitage was wonderful, one of my WOTDs.

The 1990 Olga Picasses was fantastic, one of the best bottles of this I recall having.

The 2005 TL Sancerre was one of the best Buster examples of this that I recall. Usually I prefer the regular other than for the picture

"CVNE 1981 Rioja Gran Reserva "Vina Real" - a whiff of rubber galoshes and a little stinging acidity but this is red-fruited and well-composed"
I enjoyed the CVNE much more than you finding it a perfectly resolved lovely Rioja. My last bottle so maybe rose colored sentiment was influencing me.

"O Raffault 2012 Chinon "Les Picasses" - rather ordinary"
I liked the 2012 Olga Picasses a lot less than you

I loved the Marie Courtin Eloquence, a perfectly graceful, lithe Champagne.

The Pahlmeyer ('95 Merlot?) was also perfectly dreadful but for different reasons.

But the absolute star of the night was Cliff's bread.

Cliff, I am sure, will testify that I went out of my gourd to tell him just that. Like, hunted him down and demanded his secrets and talked baking for the better part of an hour about vessels and steam and temperatures and kneading and types of flour

So, have you put those secrets to good use yet?

No, because I have a job and have to get up early instead of baking leisurely, as the Noodle intended.
 
originally posted by Chris Coad:
originally posted by Brad Kane:
originally posted by Chris Coad:
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
originally posted by Jay Miller:
I liked the Pinon Rose a lot more than you, finding it quite vibrant. I tried it at the end of the evening so maybe air helped.

The Faure Hermitage was wonderful, one of my WOTDs.

The 1990 Olga Picasses was fantastic, one of the best bottles of this I recall having.

The 2005 TL Sancerre was one of the best Buster examples of this that I recall. Usually I prefer the regular other than for the picture

"CVNE 1981 Rioja Gran Reserva "Vina Real" - a whiff of rubber galoshes and a little stinging acidity but this is red-fruited and well-composed"
I enjoyed the CVNE much more than you finding it a perfectly resolved lovely Rioja. My last bottle so maybe rose colored sentiment was influencing me.

"O Raffault 2012 Chinon "Les Picasses" - rather ordinary"
I liked the 2012 Olga Picasses a lot less than you

I loved the Marie Courtin Eloquence, a perfectly graceful, lithe Champagne.

The Pahlmeyer ('95 Merlot?) was also perfectly dreadful but for different reasons.

But the absolute star of the night was Cliff's bread.

Cliff, I am sure, will testify that I went out of my gourd to tell him just that. Like, hunted him down and demanded his secrets and talked baking for the better part of an hour about vessels and steam and temperatures and kneading and types of flour

So, have you put those secrets to good use yet?

No, because I have a job and have to get up early instead of baking leisurely, as the Noodle intended.

No one's interested in your excuses, Chris.
 
originally posted by Brad Kane:
originally posted by Chris Coad:
originally posted by Brad Kane:
originally posted by Chris Coad:
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
originally posted by Jay Miller:
I liked the Pinon Rose a lot more than you, finding it quite vibrant. I tried it at the end of the evening so maybe air helped.

The Faure Hermitage was wonderful, one of my WOTDs.

The 1990 Olga Picasses was fantastic, one of the best bottles of this I recall having.

The 2005 TL Sancerre was one of the best Buster examples of this that I recall. Usually I prefer the regular other than for the picture

"CVNE 1981 Rioja Gran Reserva "Vina Real" - a whiff of rubber galoshes and a little stinging acidity but this is red-fruited and well-composed"
I enjoyed the CVNE much more than you finding it a perfectly resolved lovely Rioja. My last bottle so maybe rose colored sentiment was influencing me.

"O Raffault 2012 Chinon "Les Picasses" - rather ordinary"
I liked the 2012 Olga Picasses a lot less than you

I loved the Marie Courtin Eloquence, a perfectly graceful, lithe Champagne.

The Pahlmeyer ('95 Merlot?) was also perfectly dreadful but for different reasons.

But the absolute star of the night was Cliff's bread.

Cliff, I am sure, will testify that I went out of my gourd to tell him just that. Like, hunted him down and demanded his secrets and talked baking for the better part of an hour about vessels and steam and temperatures and kneading and types of flour

So, have you put those secrets to good use yet?

No, because I have a job and have to get up early instead of baking leisurely, as the Noodle intended.

No one's interested in your excuses, Chris.

You'd be surprised.
 
originally posted by Jay Miller:
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:

But the absolute star of the night was Cliff's bread.

Nope - Jeff's carrots
Carrot confit sounds really interesting.

I would love to know the recipe for this one, thanks Jeff.

I've recently tried the 09 Thevenet and it was ok but very much an 09 Beaujolais, which I mean super ripe, darker fruit and a lot of tannic structure. I guess the tannins are fading some now but the signature baked fruit is still there. Not bretty, thankfully, which can be a problem with some bottles of Thevenet. I bought way too much 09 Beajolais and they are drinkable but not ideal Beaujolais for me.
 
originally posted by slaton:
Sounds wonderful.

Did anyone note the color of the capsule on the Faurie Hermitage?
I don't know when the practice started, but according to Kermit:

Gréffieux/Bessards: Cream capsule
Bessards/Méal: Gold capsule
Méal: Gold capsule with “M”

I remember a few years back a bottle of B Faurie Hermitage called assemblage.
Was this a blend of all three vineyards? Is it still produced?
 
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
originally posted by Jay Miller:
I liked the Pinon Rose a lot more than you, finding it quite vibrant. I tried it at the end of the evening so maybe air helped.

The Faure Hermitage was wonderful, one of my WOTDs.

The 1990 Olga Picasses was fantastic, one of the best bottles of this I recall having.

The 2005 TL Sancerre was one of the best Buster examples of this that I recall. Usually I prefer the regular other than for the picture

"CVNE 1981 Rioja Gran Reserva "Vina Real" - a whiff of rubber galoshes and a little stinging acidity but this is red-fruited and well-composed"
I enjoyed the CVNE much more than you finding it a perfectly resolved lovely Rioja. My last bottle so maybe rose colored sentiment was influencing me.

"O Raffault 2012 Chinon "Les Picasses" - rather ordinary"
I liked the 2012 Olga Picasses a lot less than you

I loved the Marie Courtin Eloquence, a perfectly graceful, lithe Champagne.

The Pahlmeyer ('95 Merlot?) was also perfectly dreadful but for different reasons.

Some comments.

Jeff, I think my main criticism with the Thevenet was it was not that good. And it seemed that '96 Huet CdB DS was just an off bottle.

Jay, totally disagree on the Vina Real. :) I found it was at least 15-20 years from being perfectly resolved, after which it will be even more delicious and complex than it already is. As I noted on Saturday, I think this bottle would have been even better with a couple more hours of air. A pox on CVNE for what it has done to Vina Real.

We should line up some T-L Busters - do a vertical. I thought this one aged fattish and still shows sweet, which translates to a heaviness I didn't care for. I'm not 100% sure Buster isn't generally better young and energetic but in a leaner form than 2005. Ripe but for me better balanced vintage 1997 a few months ago was better. It looks like I only have 2002, 2006, 2012, and (the spectacular) 2014 left for a vertical.

I'm finishing off the last glass of the Brand VT for dessert tonight. Was my only bottle and an excellent time to drink it. Whereas I suspect the delicious Foreau's real prime time is 15 to 40 years from now.

Grunhaus was white o'night for me. That's just good dirt.

But the absolute star of the night was Cliff's bread.

Awww, shucks.

I have one or two bottles of the 07 Buster. I think I liked 05 better than you, but it has always been a little on the exuberant side, worthy of the pup. I think the sugar is better integrated now.

On the bread, the secret to that loaf was a double fermentation -- see Ken Forkish for the step by step. I mix 400 G all purpose flour (you want protein around 11%, not the Australian Shiraz bread flours at 14%, made for machines) with the tiniest smidge of package yeast (not quite 1/8 tsp) and 272 G water. Mix to combine and cover overnight on the counter. The next morning, in a separate bowl, mix 100 G flour; 12 G salt; 1/4 tsp package yeast; and 103 G warm water, around 100-105F. Mix to combine. Then carefully fold in the overnight ferment. Work it all together so it is completely mixed. Get your hands messy and break up any clumps of flour.... Let it ferment for 2.5-3hrs (watch it if it is a hot day). It needs 2-3 folds in the first hour for strength. After fermentation, fold it on a board and shape it into a boule and into a proofing basket or bowl. It only proofs for 1 hr, so get the oven pre-heated to 475 with a heavy pot with a lid (4 qt Lodge is perfect). Bake for 30 mins covered and 20-30 mins uncovered. Let it get nice and dark, just short of burning, for that crust.

The covered pot, made famous by Jim Lahey, is the secret. It effectively steams the bread. It's the only way to get a real crust at home. Here's the link that started the craze (there are some mistakes in the recipe) -- http://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/11376-no-knead-bread
 
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:

We should line up some T-L Busters - do a vertical. I thought this one aged fattish and still shows sweet, which translates to a heaviness I didn't care for. I'm not 100% sure Buster isn't generally better young and energetic but in a leaner form than 2005. Ripe but for me better balanced vintage 1997 a few months ago was better. It looks like I only have 2002, 2006, 2012, and (the spectacular) 2014 left for a vertical.

I have a 2000 and 2001 T-L Buster.
 
originally posted by MarkS:
... A pox on CVNE for what it has done to Vina Real.

??
Other than having a recently corked example, what is meant by this?

Decision making at CVNE over the years has been suspect. I tried to go back and find when Vina Real, including the GR, appears to have jumped the shark (maybe 01), but I couldn't find the info quickly. If you are inclined to like classic Rioja, these days I'd stick to Imperial or back buy VR.

If Manuel is reading and so inclined, he may provide more info. Or Kane might have an opinion.
 
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
originally posted by MarkS:
... A pox on CVNE for what it has done to Vina Real.

??
Other than having a recently corked example, what is meant by this?

Decision making at CVNE over the years has been suspect. I tried to go back and find when Vina Real, including the GR, appears to have jumped the shark (maybe 01), but I couldn't find the info quickly. If you are inclined to like classic Rioja, these days I'd stick to Imperial or back buy VR.

If Manuel is reading and so inclined, he may provide more info. Or Kane might have an opinion.

I recall Manuel saying 2001
 
originally posted by Cliff:
The covered pot, made famous by Jim Lahey, is the secret. It effectively steams the bread. It's the only way to get a real crust at home.
Agreed. I've experimented with a cast iron dutch oven and ceramic cloche and find the results similar but the latter far easier to work with.

My best results have come working with wild yeast, but it becomes an all-day project. And I've never quite mastered scoring, sometimes I get a nice ear and others it's a bit of a mess.
 
No question, wild yeast makes better bread. My favorite recipe uses mostly wild yeast, with just a little boost from the package for volume. But I forgot the boost, and then the proportions were off. So we had some good focaccia, and I started the double fermented version with packaged yeast.

I just put the bread into the pot seam side up and get a rustic design, different each time.

Why does it take longer to bake with wild yeast? My problem was I ran out of ripe wild yeast.
 
Why does it take longer to bake with wild yeast? My problem was I ran out of ripe wild yeast.

The same reason that wines made with "wild" yeast tend to be less alcoholic. Commercial yeasts have been selected for vigor. Wild yeasts are inefficient, but fortuitously (sometimes) impart better flavor.

Mark Lipton
 
That's true, but it all depends on how much you're using. I do a bulk ferment with native yeast that takes about six hours. The loaf I made above using packaged yeast had a twelve-hour ferment with packaged yeast, for the main part of the bulk fermentation.
 
Why would you run out of wild yeast? Every time you use it, you just replace what you use. If you uses it immediately, you don't even have to let it rise again overnight because you've already done that.
 
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