Heeding my clarion call for jeebusization, Disorderlies descended from all quarters on Friday night to Buck’s Fishing and Camping, an incongruously named restaurant in the NW corner of DC. A table was provided for us in the corner of the attractive room, already fitted at the time of my arrival with two sets of glasses per person. First to show (apart from myself) was the redoubtable Jonathan Loesberg, wisely traveling solo and sparing Gail the torment of unbridled wine geekery on full display. Next was Maureen, followed soon by Cole Kendall and Mary Sullivan. Last but not least on the scene was Michael Lewis, also wisely hiding the womenfolk at home. Introductions were made, wines were unearthed and the festivities soon began. As is the norm in such cases, we quickly realized that we had at least 50% more wine than we’d be able to safely consume, so a program of bottle triage was instituted. What emerged was a flight of 3 Rieslings, another of 3 Morey St. Denis and a few outliers (Puffeney Pinot Noir and Vatan Clos la Neore). After some hasty discussion of dining strategy, starters were chosen and wines were uncorked (and unscrewed).
With mini-corn dogs (!!) and fried oysters:
2012 Willi Schäfer Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett #3 greeted me with a nose of petrol and hints of apricot. Nearly dry in feel, it was zippy and citrusy with enough heft to pass for a Spätlese. It washed down the oysters quite well and was surprisingly good with the smoky sausage of the corn dog.
2002 Nikolaihof Steinriesler is a recent release, Maureen says, and was vexing in its youthful tightness. Not showing a whole lot right now, it nevertheless had a freshness to it that promises of better things to come. Hard to judge right now, though.
2002 Prager Wachstum Bodenstein made a fascinating contrast with the other two Rieslings. The nose was quite similar to that of the Schäfer, with petrol and citrus in the forefront, but the wine was bone dry (as was the Steinriesler) yet rish and fruity. Lovely, lovely.
With our salad courses:
2013 Vatan Clos la Neore was generously opened by Michael and justified his decision. Strongly mineral, yet quite approachable at this young age. A very appealing, savory package with just a slight herbal note, the expected richness and acidity. It was fantastic with the goat cheese in my beet salad.
With our mains (duck breast for Jonathan and me, pork chop for Maureen, not sure what the others had):
2005 Henri Jouan MSD Clos Sorbé initially had a worrisome maderized scent to the nose, making me concerned about heat damage, but that soon cleared away, leaving a nose of baking spices. The wine itself was, as expected, on the more feminine side, but seemed a tad simple.
2006 Truchot-Martin MSD Les Sorbé VV was a complete treat to try. As expected, it had the silken texture that I expect from this producer, but still showed the effects of the riper vintage. Still very young and primary, it clearly has a bright future ahead of it.
2002 Roumier MSD Clos de la Bussiere was, to me, the biggest disappointment of the night. The nose upon opening showed a big whack of VA. After a chill to tone down the volatility, the wine still came across as clunky and unrefined, especially in contast to the other two MSDs.
2012 Puffeney Pinot Noir Arbois was a most interesting contrast to the other reds. Lighter even than the Truchot and Jouan, with a firm spine of acidity, it had the meaty character that I come to expect and a tart red fruit character.
As so often happens at these events, time flew by, filled as it was with conversation and good food and wine. By the end of the meal, we had pretty much shut down the restaurant, who were totally gracious in their service, providing us with extra glasses and an ice bucket, all for the low price of $40 corkage. Many thanks to all for their participation and generosity. I even made the last train of the night and got back to my hotel room by 1:20 in the morning. Thanks, DC!
Mark Lipton
