TN: In the Cellar (Oct 8, 2016)

J

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
Ladies and gentlemen, this way to the egress!

Mascarello, M(!) 1971 Nebbiolo d'Alba - stinky at first but with a half-hour of air it opens up: roses, gravel, gentle acidity and a whiff of face-powder, bantamweight and charming

Muller-Catoir 1998 Haardter Burgergarten Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken - on the dry side, as you might expect; and beautiful, as you might expect

Edmund St John 2005 Syrah "Bassetti Vineyard" - amazingly young, earthy, masculine, practially Cornas, a cellar treasure

Dom. Closel 2002 Savenniere "Clos Papillon" - oxidized, feh; John makes a pitch to drink it as vin jaune...
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Dom. Closel 2002 Savenniere "Clos Papillon" - oxidized, feh; John makes a pitch to drink it as vin jaune...
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That wine was so extraordinary on release. Sorry to hear it's not holding up.
 
originally posted by Kay Bixler:
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Dom. Closel 2002 Savenniere "Clos Papillon" - oxidized, feh; John makes a pitch to drink it as vin jaune...
Click to expand...

That wine was so extraordinary on release. Sorry to hear it's not holding up.
Click to expand...

Was that wine in 2002 made with the idea of making it more accessible early on?
I vaguely remember some discussion here that Domaine Closel changed some things in 2002 regarding the wine making or maybe it was something changed in the vineyard, compared to past vintages. I don't know if it was done deliberately to make it an earlier drinker or just something different to improve things in general.

I think I have a few bottles of this and the Baumard Clos Papillon left.
Oh 2002 Loire, wish I drank them sooner!
 
Marc,

I sort of remember that as well but also can't recall the details. Possibly they cut back on the SO2 when Evelyn started making the wine but that is just a guess. Pretty sure I have a few bottles of this as well and based on Jeff's note I'll let it sit for another decade and see how it is after it comes out the other side of the oxidation tunnel.
 
originally posted by Kay Bixler:
Marc,

I sort of remember that as well but also can't recall the details. Possibly they cut back on the SO2 when Evelyn started making the wine but that is just a guess. Pretty sure I have a few bottles of this as well and based on Jeff's note I'll let it sit for another decade and see how it is after it comes out the other side of the oxidation tunnel.
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Does this really happen, come out of oxidation and improve with more time?

Should I hope for this with my 2002 Huets as well?
 
Maybe it just grows into it's oxidation. Like after a certain age gray hair looks good.

Certainly there's no point in opening them now, so what else can we do?
 
originally posted by Kay Bixler:
Maybe it just grows into it's oxidation. Like after a certain age gray hair looks good.

Certainly there's no point in opening them now, so what else can we do?
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That is what they will tell you at Joly anyway. Wines open for 3 days (and smelling of sherry) and they tell you this their "apogee"...
 
Yeah. But again, what other choice is there? I can't, in good conscience, sell the wine and there is no point in opening them now so they will sit and I'll hope to catch one on a good day when they're ancient. Thankfully it's only a few bottles.
 
Not following this thread copiously; however, perhaps there should be allowance for palate and bottle variation.

. . . . Pete
 
originally posted by Kay Bixler:
Marc,

I sort of remember that as well but also can't recall the details. Possibly they cut back on the SO2 when Evelyn started making the wine but that is just a guess. Pretty sure I have a few bottles of this as well and based on Jeff's note I'll let it sit for another decade and see how it is after it comes out the other side of the oxidation tunnel.
Click to expand...
I recall being told that Closel purposely made it in a slightly oxidative style so that it would be more interesting and more approachable when young. I did not find any support for that assertion online but I did find a note from Jamie Goode that says Closel allowed malo-lactic fermentation to occur and also allowed some extra time on the less with batonnage.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Mascarello, M(!) 1971 Nebbiolo d'Alba - stinky at first but with a half-hour of air it opens up: roses, gravel, gentle acidity and a whiff of face-powder, bantamweight and charming
Click to expand...
Had another one of these tonight: for the first half-hour, kinda sour and squinty, showing some slight maderization; then the sweetness surges back, and a little strawberry-jam fruit; it works well with pot roast as the slightly-tweaky acid cuts back against the fatty meat and sauce; very good; and the bottle is a 720ml !

ETA: I also note the neck-tag says "Tenuta Rocchetta" and the neck foil (it isn't a lead capsule but just foil) says "Mascarello Michele e figli".
 
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