A trio that should have been more than something, but wasn’t.
NV Larmandier-Bernier Latitude Blanc de Blancs Extra-Brut 12.5%
80% chardonnay, no disgorgement date. Floral and fresh, promising a romp in the glade, but delivers a rather desultory mouth, without much body in the mid-range, followed by a fast decline. Tops it off with a bitter finish. Lassitude might have been a better name.
2013 La Ferme de la Sansonnière (Mark Angeli) Les Fouchardes VdF 13.5%
Purchased after wg’s enticing rave. Afaik, this is Angeli’s top cuvee, one I had not tasted, having previously been quite satisfied thank you with the more modest ambitions of La Lune. I remember Joe describing Angeli as a blowhard, and this wine, indeed, blows hard. A heady rush of chenin lanolin and florals usher their way around the Maginot line, occupying every single nook. The mouth is creamy, borderline frothy, strutting Mae West curves over an equilibrium that veers towards the fine, but is thwarted for want of a smidgen of acidity. A restaurant’s a stage, and it is not hard to see how this would shine in a heady Lamarr setting, calling for big bands and orchestral sweep. The intimacies of the hallowed hearth, however, call for chamber music and string quartets, hush rather than brash, so I might have preferred La Lune. But let it be registered that the better half demurred, proclaiming the wine awesome and a thing she could drink every day.
2013 Domaine de Montrieux (Emile Heredia) Le Verre des Poétes 12.0%
I believe this is the final vintage of my much loved Verre des Poètes before the photographer Heredia fell for the charms of the widow Gaubicher and moved his locks, stocks, and barrels to her neck of the Ligerian woods. Perhaps it needs a few more years to buff the edges, but previous vintages were easy drinking in their youth. This had a certain roughness, or coarseness, as if spiteful of impending abandonment. Not hard to imagine the winemaker with his head in the clouds, a man with a foolish grin going through final motions half-heartedly, the bottle suffering for being the last of its kind.