TN: Chateau Yvonne Saumur Champigny

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Kay Bixler

Kay Bixler
2011 Chateau Yvonne "La Folie" Saumur Champigny - Slumming around a PA State store recently and decided to take a chance on this one. What a lovely cabernet franc. Restrained and deeply mineral with ripe, leafy raspberry fruit and fine tannic structure. Solid bottle of wine. Honest as the day is long. Never heard of these guys before.
 
There's a Foucault connection; from google: "Mathieu Vallée assumed the reigns at Chateau Yvonne in 2007 when he acquired the domaine from Yvonne and Jean-François Lamunière. Yvonne and Jean-Francois acquired six hectares in 1996 and took to working with Françoise Foucault. Those of you who know great Loire wine, and fine, age worthy Saumur Champigny, will recognize the Foucault name. Françoise is the wife of one of the world’s greatest winemakers at Clos Rougeard. Even today, under Mathieu’s guidance, the Clos Rougeard sensibility is evident: organic farming; low yields harvested by hand in small bins; naturally slow, native yeast fermentations; long oak aging with appropriately limited new oak; low sulfur and bottling unfined and unfiltered. But Mathieu has taken quality to a new level having converted the vineyards to biodynamic in 2012.

Today, 28 small plots in three villages make up a total of 11 hectares of vineyards: three hectares planted to Chenin Blanc and eight hectares planted to Cabernet Franc. Chateau Yvonne doesn’t make very much wine. All in they craft about 2000 cases per year three Cabernet Francs and two Chenin Blancs. The vineyards are planted predominantly on limestone and tuffeau (chalky) stone along with some gravel and sandy clay. From this earthy cocktail come wines that are unique expressions of wines that reflect their surroundings."

I have one bottle left of a string of 2005 white Saumurs from them that were all splendid.
 
From this earthy cocktail come wines that are unique expressions of wines that reflect their surroundings.
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The whites used to be touted as 'Burgundian' and I could see that, because they were rich and did not remind me of chenin blanc, at least in their youth. But this was only a few vintages in the early 2000s. I haven't tasted anything since then, so what do I know!
 
I used to drink them back in the day in Paris, but the change of ownership brought on what I thought was a more "modern" style and I desisted. ('Spose it was in 2008.) They were looser, a bit more swing-from-the-hip, before the transfer of power.

Think I should try them again?
 
Josh Adler (Paris Wine Company) is bringing Chateau Yvonne into the west coast now, maybe elsewhere.

A fair bit of purple prose has been spilled comparing the wines to Rougeard (like every new Saumur producer it seems), but I have yet to try them.
 
originally posted by slaton:
Josh Adler (Paris Wine Company) is bringing Chateau Yvonne into the west coast now, maybe elsewhere.

A fair bit of purple prose has been spilled comparing the wines to Rougeard (like every new Saumur producer it seems), but I have yet to try them.
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Coeur Wine Co here in NYC
 
originally posted by Sharon Bowman:
I used to drink them back in the day in Paris, but the change of ownership brought on what I thought was a more "modern" style and I desisted. ('Spose it was in 2008.) They were looser, a bit more swing-from-the-hip, before the transfer of power.

Think I should try them again?
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Yes. I have no doubt you would have enjoyed this wine, Sharon. Found a lone bottle of the chenin today in DUMBO and, despite the quite serious price tag, took it home. Hope to try it soon.
 
Oz Wine brings them in to MA. I've only had the 2001 (back in '05) and thought it was pretty solid. Haven't had any wines since Vallée came in. I don't think it's brought in to AZ so I'll have to hunt around.
 
Okay, drinking the white wine - 2014 Chateau Yvonne Saumur Blanc - a bit of reduction blows off in an hour, big barrel influence on the nose backed by honey, white flower and a wisp of tar. Powdery in the mouth, very fine with great balance and length. New oak chenin is not for me, though no doubt this is very good wine. And it's half the price of Breze. 92 pts.

Also opened recently . . .

2015 Clos des Briords Muscadet - Quite tart at first but with a few hours air it is classic CdB with an almond paste middle and endless length. After three days it is rainwater soft yet retains an electric current of acidity. Prefer the '14 but this is certainly no slouch. 92 pts.

2014 Precedent - Zinfandel, Evangelho Vineyard, Contra Costa County, CA - 100+ year-old, own rooted zinfandel vines. Bramble and zin-berry, leather, spice, it is a wine to nose all night. Vibrant acids, plump middle and the buzzing tannin demand food. Pulled pork and coleslaw worked well and it has the complexity to go with higher cooking. Like, say, pizza. Also loved the Old Vines White--mostly riesling--from this winery and the chenin is good as well. 93 pts.
 
originally posted by Kay Bixler:
2014 Precedent - Zinfandel, Evangelho Vineyard, Contra Costa County, CA - 100+ year-old, own rooted zinfandel vines. Bramble and zin-berry, leather, spice, it is a wine to nose all night. Vibrant acids, plump middle and the buzzing tannin demand food. Pulled pork and coleslaw worked well and it has the complexity to go with higher cooking. Like, say, pizza...
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I have found the Zin and pizza pairing to be one of the variety's most consistent successes. As much as I have enjoyed the Ridge bottlings and want to make them more auspicious offerings, I still can't find a better match. Perhaps it is the Primitivo connection yearning for its old friends tomato and garlic.
 
I'll put in a vote for lamb as a great foil for Ridge zins. I'm especially fond of the pairing with a recipe given to me by SFJoe: rub a butterflied leg o lamb with a paste made from various herbs and garlic macerated in olive oil , then grill. In general, I'd guess that any recipe that goes well with Bandol would do well with Ridge zins.

Mark Lipton
 
originally posted by Kay Bixler:
Okay, drinking the white wine - 2014 Chateau Yvonne Saumur Blanc - a bit of reduction blows off in an hour, big barrel influence on the nose backed by honey, white flower and a wisp of tar. Powdery in the mouth, very fine with great balance and length. New oak chenin is not for me, though no doubt this is very good wine. And it's half the price of Breze. 92 pts.
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Drinking 2014 Domaine de la Taille aux Loups, Montlois "Clos de Mosny" and the description is virtually identical to the oaky chenin from Saumur, but for the brighter acidity here. And it's half the cost. So if you're priced out of Breze and the Chateau Yvonne, Jacky Blot has this wine for you. Super long, high quality cork says "age me forever, please" but who knows how it will turn out or how long it might take to get there. Beautiful wine but the barrel notes dominate for me. 92 pts.
 
I have found the Zin and pizza pairing to be one of the variety's most consistent successes. As much as I have enjoyed the Ridge bottlings and want to make them more auspicious offerings, I still can't find a better match. Perhaps it is the Primitivo connection yearning for its old friends tomato and garlic.
Click to expand...

Barbera and pizza, yeah!
 
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